Calibrating the balance between urban outlines and high-performance features, the Spring 2018 footwear collection by Woolrich keeps strengthening the statement of contemporary functionality.
The shoes’ construction presents a solid sole made by Vibram, suitable for both journeys outdoor and urban walks thanks to a contemporary design.
Part of the menswear collection, the Trail Boot is available in high and low top versions, featuring minimalist outlines in contrast with fluorescent details. With a focus on confortability, the Air Mash model is characterised by a lined sole, while the overall collection of light snearkers, sleepers and slip-ons are enriched with colorful bands to best embrace the bright spirit of summer.
For the women, mountain boots with performance laces, trainers in nubuck and slip-ons unveiling a suede trim explore the coasts of the New World, balancing their technical structure with the use of natural materials.
Available in Woolrich flagship stores and distributed to the best multibrand stores in Europe, USA and Asia, the footwear collection can be purchased also trough their website.
Just stop for 30 minutes, wear your astronaut gear and let him overwhelm you with his warm voice and brazen sight.
As a matter of facts, Archy Marshall aka King Krule has relocated to the moon to record his latest music video, performing 8 tracks from the most recent album “The Ooz”. In a very short sequence, the video opens with the singer laying down on the bad looking at the moon, which is then mirrored in his blue eyes.
Afterwards, we find him wearing a space suit and the performance begins. Is it a dream or is it reality?
Over the years, the Londoner has been able to show the world an innate talent in experimenting with different music genres, which continuously float between punk, jazz, hip hop and loading them with an intensely dark sound.
Besides that, his fascination and approach to visual cultures expands the comprehension of his music, making its concept even more psychedelic and somehow referential. If Lizard’s state (2014) black and white video is an open tribute to Alfred Hitchcock, on the other way around, in “Dum Surfer”(2017) we are absorbed by a creepy scenario where both the band members and red curtains are reminiscent of David Lynch Twin Peaks’ character the Giant.
“Live on the moon” would perhaps recall another British dude who bring his music on another planet in 1969. Space oddity, anyone? There is a lot of material, though.
Yet originality lies in trasforming exhisting things in totally new ones, and Marshall is undoubetely trascending the more diverse languages to create his own style.
The turbulent soul will tour around USA starting from April, while for those like us who would love to see him live in Europe will have to wait because after all, he just started walking 6 feet beneath the moon.
The video can be watched on the webpage: oozdelalune.com
There is no need to say that Christian Louboutin knows exactly what glamorous women want: to shine as stars do.
For this summer and as a gift to fashion lovers, the iconic designer introduces a very sparkling collection of high-shine lip glosses.
Loubimirior is a glassy vinyl presenting a very slick finish. Enriched with Vitamin E and shea butter to improve idratation and reducing fine lines on lips, this glossy lacquer intensifies lips’ fullness and natural beauty, as well as it can be layered over any Lip Colour for a bold effect.
With its irresistible color-changing effect, the Loubilaque Lip Gloss is available in four different shades featuring a metallic finish on lips, which is highlighted by irridescent glitters and pigment pearls.
Yet Louboutin takes the gloss formulas to the highest level thanks to an attentive focus on the teardrop applicator’s precision and functionality for both the versions, which are additionally enriched with a delicate feminine scent.
As if they were jewels reminiscent of Art Deco movement, the lipstick cases’ design represents one-of-a-kind treasure to wear as a pendant. Indeed, the vial is carved with a marmaid tail pattern and enclosed with a turret-like crown, which is in turn threaded with a delicate silk ribbon.
Loubimirior and Lubilaque lip glosses set up the make-up rules for the upcoming season, irradiating summer days with their brightly feminine and super seducing features.
With two new proposals Peuterey continues working on their innovative Icon Project, which this season introduces two pieces for the outerwear. Bail for men and Corduroy for women are down jackets made of cotton poplin, featuring a water repellent surface and thermo-taped internal seams. A detachable hood with drawstring, wind protection and reflective details underline the urban design and feel for technology. On the other way around, Carve and Shaka are regular fitting parkas introducing a bond technology that allows for a reduced thickness. Light and versatile, Peuterey products are future-oriented, yet perfectly communicating that balance between contemporary style and the highest functionality.
It’s now turn for Paris to showcase the most cutting-edge designers and their proposals for Fall 2018. In less than a day, the vibrant appointment with fashion has already turned into an inspiring cultural hub.
With a mood inspired by Morocco, Jacquemus unveils a very original interpretation of this warm land. The collection is an exploration sandy tones and primary full colors that highlights the depth of necklines. Sensual and extremely sophisticated, light knits dresses are worn like a second skin. In addition, cuts and layers alternate with flowing fabrics that uncover the body, yet inform a strong sense of modern elegance.
Mini-dresses and hyper-structured shoulders define the stylish attitude for the vertical silhouettes that Anthony Vaccarello selects for Saint Laurent. The imaginary brings back to the rock scene of the Eighties, as well as the richness of embroideries and transparencies underlines a youth spirit taking over the rebellious cuts. Although a dark palette drives the mood of the collection, materials and details such as velvet, studs and trimmings enrich jackets with a sophisticated touch of glamour.
When the attitude is revolutionary, then a reference to youth movements in 1968 is mandatory. With her collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri opens Dior show with a sweater featuring “C’est non non non! permeates the atmosphere with lot of vintage fashion magazine covers on the runway floor, unveiling a wearable chic students-wear that combines sporty tailored jackets, printed T-shirts and transparent shirts, long dresses and and skirts.
Earthy colors, leaves prints and a giant tree setting the stage. This is how Lacoste presents their collection in Paris, and everything seems a gentle ode to the essentiality of nature. Both men and women take their walk in a relaxed allure, which combines street-style elements with a more sober elegance.
Casual sweaters enriched by natural drawings are paired with wide trousers, while maxi turtleneck ponchos comfortably flow over the body. For the women, dresses feature asymmetrical cuts and flaring sleeves. The menswear works on layers, unveiling casual combinations of hoodie sweaters under classic suits and interesting proposals for the outerwear.
Precise cuts, oval collars, tone-on-tones long asymmetrical duchess dresses in satin revealing plunging necklines are embellished by adjustable belt and precious details. Sober and linear, Lanvin collection is highlighted by luminous shades of orange, fucsia or emerald green. Leather midi pencil skirts in different shades are paired with tight turtleneck sweaters creating a modern look, while a fluid peachy shirt-dress achieves romantic elegance with a cascade of little treasures on the front. This is Olivier Lapidus' language and vision, which the digital couturier brings at the historical Maison.
Set in the marvellous Hotel de Ville, Dries van Noten presents an incredibly rich collection. Light blue, deep purple, warm orange and several green hues, from watery tones to distinctive neon shades set the base for something like a magnetic elegance. All the jackets are oversized embodying masculine cuts, while floral prints and the abundance of embroideries take over long, fluid dresses. Classic pencil or pleated skirts are infused with metallic panels and paired with soft sweaters and luminous wide blouses, which glorify the feel of powerful femininity and grace.
With over 64 fashion shows, Milan Fashion Week is likely the most outstanding event of the year. From the 20th to the 26th February, several brands have unveiled their energetic womenswear proposals for Fall 2018, once again consolidating designers’ ability to interrelate the world of fashion with art and topics of sociological relevance.
Radically political, Prada presents a neo-retro-futuristic collection narrating the Milan’s night cityscape and focusing on how women feel when walking alone during the night. Set in the newly constructed Tower by OMA, everything is intensified by the darkness of the floor, where models wear layered looks, featuring workwear elements combined with organza, tulle and tweed. Fluorescent digital prints as well as new Prada neon signs illuminate the atmosphere and work as signage over technical materials. With her collection, Miuccia Prada once again use the artistic mean to mark an important statement strongly standing up for women and their freedom.
Alessandro Michele loves reinterpreting past cultures. With his new collection set in a claustrophobic operational room, the designer invites us to be overwhelmed by the complexity of the creative process. With models carrying baby dragons, chameleons and severed heads, Gucci Cyborg is a complex imaginative ensemble of fine materials and vintage quotations. Showcasing knitted balaclava, lurex jackets, feathered sleeves, organza dresses combined with iconic american Paramount Logo or cult movies like “Faster, Pussycat! Kill, Kill!”.
Apparently, truth is out there. An extraterrestrial fantasy leads the mood of Moschino by Jeremy Scott, who gives form to a conspiracy theory according to which Jackie Kennedy was an alien. Therefore, face-painted models with vintage 60's looks in pop neon and pastel tones on skirts, pumps and pillbox hats playfully underlining the bright spirit of the brand.
One of the most recognizable aspects of cyber punk aesthetics is the one of imagining hyper technological future landscapes intersecting vintage design features. Skin and earthy tones in brown and pale olive green determine the romantic outlines of shouldered dresses and pleated skirts. With their collection presented in Milan, in a similar way Fendi re-elaborates different elements from the structured looks from the eighties and the vertical silhouettes of the Forties to underline and re-define a conscious and self-confident femininity.
Vulnerable figures, dramatically portrayed in black and white over diagonal compositions, form the language of Peter Hujar, whose artistic production was recognised for the spontaneous yet touching immediacy of his ‘difficult subjects’.
Over a span of 30 years, since the beginning of the mid-fifties, Hujar’s production has faced and been influenced by shaking moments of cultural history, including the public unfolding of gay life between the Stonewall and the AIDS crisis, the emergence of punk performances in art and music and downtown subcultures during the Reagan Era, as well as the meeting with influential personalities, such as Susan Sontang (who contributed to Hujar’s 1976 monograph).
The interest for subcultural forms of expression and drag performance, led him to meet with Warhol Superstar Candy Darling, who asked Hujar to make her a portrait as “a farewell to the fans”. Set in a hospital room where Candy was admitted for lymphoma, what should have been resulted in an unpleasant image of death was actually transformed in an elegant atmosphere highly suggesting a calm serendipity.
On the one hand, the artistic authority that Hujar's work has achieved overtime collects an immersive and wide contemplation of human bodies and their shapes, investigating on the transient fugacity of life, highlighting both their corporeal presence and interiority. On the other hand, additional works (such as the shots taken at the Palermo catacombs in 1963) featuring still-life, landscapes and animals unveil his sophisticated and melancholic sensibility for existence as a whole.
Peter Hujar died of AIDS in 1987 and more than thirty years after his death, his photographies are gaining worldwide traction more than ever.
For the first time and at The Morgan Library & Museum until the 20th of May 2018, a full-scale retrospective presents 140 photographs of this great artist, displaying the prints how Hujar wanted his work to be exhibited: flirting with disorder to let the viewer dive in the deep storytelling of each single image.
On the 21st of February, the prestigious KaDaWe store in Berlin will inaugurate the launch of the OFF-WHITE ™ collaboration with Jimmy Choo collection, which will be showcased in an exclusive pop-up store for over two weeks.
For the first time, the luxurious brand Jimmy Choo collaborates with a ready-to-wear designer, unveiling a commercial collection that combines Virgil Abloh’s youthful exuberance in design with their high-end heritage.
Imbuing the princess heels with an intriguing, conceptual use of plastic tulles and hothouse florals, generate a fresh and appealing identity to the special collection.
The collection will be available from the 21st of February until Tuesday the 6th of March.
The Buffalo-era: Astrid Andersen pays tribute to the iconic youth culture for her FW18
There have been so many youth cultures inspiring worldwide designers. Especially in the eighties, the Buffalo movement was about one of those radicalization of clothing daring society with cross-generational, cross-gender and cross-cultural aesthetics.
For the launch of her Fall Winter 2018, Astrid Andersen takes inspiration from this pioneering language that has greatly anticipated the contemporary scenario and celebrates diversity with an innovative tribute to their energetic and authentic London street-style. Far from rules, she set up an unlimited space for creativity. She designer plays with tweeds, tartans and glitter organza, as well as silk jacquards, technical puffers and custom-printed silks. The rich color palette floats between sparkling golden yellow and full primary colors, cross-exploring wide ranges of possibilities.
The eighties' imaginary spreads out trough the collection's spirit, from Georgia Hworth (daughter of Jeny Howorth) walking in the show to original shots by photographer Mark Lebon portraying Jeny Howorth styled by Caroline Baker, which take over sporty-chic hooden dresses.
The looks have been incorporated into the menswear show (and wholesales in Paris) as an underlined, positive declaration of genderless fashion, while the full womenswear range has been presented during Copenhagen Fashion Week on the 1st of February.
A warehouse in raw concrete, with all its stripped down connotations, once the distribution centre of the French Post. Like last’s season venue - the former Liberation offices - it gave a feeling of nostalgia, and a sense of austerity.
As the model walked in the space above the audience pit, on the notes of Underground’s Born Slippy in a 2008 remix by Get Well Soon, we felt that play between contrast Dries Van Noten has often chosen in his poetic.
The collection is as complex and intricate in mixing different styles and influences as it could be the individual course of a lifetime, with different patterns, mood swings, travels and ages.
There is an incredibly appealing modern take on tartans and Prince of Wales plaid with the warm tones of traditional suiting.
But also slightly oversized silhouettes next to slim and elongated ones; fringed embellishments reminiscent of a Western age; half kilts styled on top of matching pants; white cotton trousers with broderie anglaise; jackets hand embroidered next to boxy sporty trench coats; pongee silk for the most alluring pyjamas.
The show note mentions “the tension and spark of the habitually incongruent”.
Dries Van Noten has created a collection beautifully balanced with all the elements that have been classics staples in his oeuvre – modern English tailoring, sporty, lush prints, florals, dark colours next to a vibrant palette – while delivering a show that didn’t fail to deeply touch us in a crescendo peaked in the finale lineup: over 40 billowy raincoats declined in a rainbow of variations featuring hand painted marbling technique used traditionally on paper.
There was a sense of joy, of youthful atmosphere, of life.
Junya Watanabe has always been researching on workwear for his Menswear collection.
It’s a fuss-free, genuine utilitarian take on clothes that are impressed on our everydaylife, from heavy duty to white-collars. This season was the turn of the fireman, the waste collector, the delivery boy, the office worker, the college student, the hiking guide.
Some carrying totes and backpacks that transformed into a jacket, ready for any weather sudden changes. A reflective band run through the entire collection, also adorning the more tailored jackets, sweaters and coats. A hint to our modern times where office hours often extends into late night.
As the colour palette was imbued with black, dark blue, grey, orange, red, the materials spaced from technical materials to heavy wool and relaxed knit pieces.
Watanabe has been a pioneer in brands collaborations before it became the new cool in the industry.
Also this season Junya Watanabe collaborations featured Carhartt, North Face, Levi’s, Canada Goose, New Balance conferring that high-tech know-how and durability to staple pieces which will undoubtedly never go out of fashion.
The one about streetstyle being a hardened enemy of high fashion is such an old story. In the digital era and trough the empowerment of individual communication over everyday aesthetics, we witness continuous splices between collection proposals and catwalk attenders.
Thanks to the amazing works of photographers like Adam Katz Sinding aka Le 21eme, it has been shown how streetstyle has gradually evolved into trend empowering new emerging figures, especially in the fashion area.
In facts, the influencer and photographer has attended more than 20 Fashion shows around the globe, capturing with his camera the greatest designers, models, stylists and contemporary fashion icons.
With the publication of “This Is Not a Fcking Street Style Book” Sinding’s first monograph, fashion and photography lovers will have the chance to leafing trough a captivating documentary on paper, which gathers the best images taken on the street and behind the stages.
The book is also accompanied by a conversation about the streetwear phenomenon between Adam Katz Sinding, Virgil Abloh and MENDO. Made by MENDO, it is available for pre-order now and will be released by February 2018.
Back to 1980s, German Männer Vogue style and energetically loaded by Dj’s duo Barker & Baumecker techno-beats echoing the vaulted rooms of Halle Am Berghain, Damir Doma returns back to Berlin to present the Fall/Winter 2018 collection.
Men’s and womenswear silhouettes spread the positive energy of the club scene, unveiling a radical juxtaposition of tailoring and drape. A ‘Super 110’s” wool selvedge outlines blazers and shift dresses. Asymmetric lines and bohemian allure reveal vented coats cut in wool felt, seersucker corduroy and grid-cotton, sculpted leather blousons and wool satin tunics.
By contrast, the modern landscape is enhanced by airbrushed rib jersey and ombre sweatshirts. Sprayed brogues, stretch cuissards and belt pouches are realised in collaboration with Officine Creative and highlights Berghain's spirit to keep late hours.
The collection continues exploring fabrics and patterns, such as vintage florals, silk paisley and carpet knit that drop a hint about the designer travel history across the major fashion capitals in Europe.
When past, present and future are linked together, their linearity is transmuted in a circular movement and the magic of eternal return begins.
A giant neon eye artwork illuminating the façade of Palazzo della Mercanzia last 9th of January has celebrated the opening of Gucci Garden, a great project designed by Creative Director Alessandro Michele and meant to completely regenerate the functions of the old archive.
Starting from the ground level two rooms, respectively Gucci Osteria and the Boutique, host a restaurant and the retail store.
The Osteria is the result of a creative collaboration with chef Massimo Bottura, who decided to propose a menu combining Italian cousine and the influences from his travels worldwide, as a reminder that “Florence has always been a centre of cultural exchange”.
With its floor of hand painted wooden boards with purple ribbons and vines on a pale green base, the bazaar-like store recreates the atmosphere of vintage florentine shops resulting from the enormous work of restoration of old furnitures (tables, sideboards and cabinets) and precious decorations in a range of florentine shades. The boutique will sell Gucci Garden’s exclusive products, including bags and shoes in special materials and the silk bomber jackets featuring the Gucci Garden gothic script.
With the help of Italian curator Maria Luisa Frisa and contribution of artists Jayde Fish, Trevor Andrew and Coco Capitan, the Gucci Museum has evolved from a more classic archive into a multifunctional space devoted to the creativity and celebration of art and fashion.
For this reason according to Frisa, in the gallery the displays follow purposefully no chronology. Rather, they create a fluid harmony suggested by items organised by themes and intensify the dialogue between old and contemporary pieces.
Gucci Garden Galleria’s six rooms on the first and second floor (Guccification, Paraphernalia, Cosmorama, Cinema da Camera, De Rerum Natura and Ephemera) tells not only the brand's history, but also homages the splendour of florentine architecture as much as its craftsmanship traditions. Each of them explore several aspects concerning the gradual transformation of the brand overtime, with a focus on the double G or the brand's historical icons evolutions.
Other rooms instead dedicate space to diverse projects, such as the red velvet cinema auditorium with a selection of experimental movies or De Rerum Natura showcasing the narrative behind the iconography of animals and gardens. Once again, Alessandro Michele’s astonishing project is the metaphorical (de)materialization of time and memory into an incredible structure, which definitely confirm the aesthetic and philosophic vision of the House.
Woolrich Teton Capsule Collection For The Brave Souls
Alaska is a land of extremes and ever-changing weather conditions, always challenging the people living in this mysterious and wild area of the United States. Woolrich is the oldest manufacturer of outdoor wear in the USA, drawing its inspiration from this magical no man’s land and its untamed nature in order to create the Teton Capsule Collection. Since 1967, Teton is Woolrich’s high performance label, inspired by the eponymous mountain range near the Yellowstone National Park in North America with peaks reaching 4,000 meters and a high popularity amongst top climbers. The creation of a high-performance collection as a support for brave souls was a forseeable outcome. The Teton Capsule Collection features high-end comfort, resistance and lightness to fight extreme conditions in every setting, while impressing with an emblematic and fashionable style.
The garments of the collection are transitional pieces, which can be worn both in the great outdoors and in the city, perfect to go for a hike in the mountains as well as a laid-back winter stroll. The Teton Capsule Collection features a complete family of products, including high-functional ones like the Rudder Jacket, warming and down-filled garments such as the Expedition Bomber and the Explorer Parka. Both are using the waterproof, windproof and breathable advantages of GORE-TEX®. A field jacket and a parka out of Teton Stretch are lightweight, breathable and suitable for every season, while a line of knitwear pieces completes the collection.
A New BVLGARI Resort Opens In Dubai
A coral texture, filtering the sun, creating a decorative motive imbued of a Mediterranean style halfway in between the creation of a goldsmith and a sophisticated natural element. Designed by the Italian architectural firm Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel, the new Bulgari Resort Dubai is a play between the Italian heritage of the maison and the suggestive surrounding landscape.
Exclusively situated on the manmade seahorse shaped island of Jumeira Bay, connected by a 300m bridge to central Dubai, the 1.4 million-square-foot property is a first-of-its-kind development for Bulgari, both in terms of scale and magnitude. With its Mediterranean village charm, the complex features the Resort, joined by six residential buildings of 173 sea-facing apartments, 15 private mansions, a Beach Club, and Bulgari’s first-ever Marina and Yacht Club. The resort includes 101 hotel rooms and suites and 20 hotel villas.
Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel and Bulgari wished to create a whole new hotel concept. Throughout the Bulgari portfolio this concept is seen in innovations such as the rooms’ square-shaped floor plan to allow windows of natural light; a niche alcove doorway and entry vestibule for privacy and soundproofing from the bedroom. A flow that renders the living experience something more akin to apartment living.
While the Bulgari Hotels & Resorts collection has evolved to include a new location, a Bulgari property is always born of the same Roman spirit. Throughout the property, a repeated use of the custom-design ‘Maglia Pantheon’mesh pattern recalls the ornamentation of the historic Roman Pantheon’s floor, as it is a part of the architectural tradition of Baroque Rome: an inexhaustible source of inspiration for Bulgari. The pattern features intricate bronze lattice-work, as well as Bulgari’s eight-pointed star motif which appeared first as an inlay in the vestibule of Bulgari’s flagship Via dei Condotti boutique.
Recalling a Mediterranean garden, La Limonaia, the hidden ‘lemon garden’ homes the resident array of birds and wildlife. Sculpted as a geometric Italian garden with a birch walkway, La Limonaia recalls an ancient Roman garden. Bulgari’s landscape designers also brought hundreds of trees onto the island, including Australian baobab trees, to establish a natural, verdant setting, a Mediterranean garden in the middle of the sea.
In every Bulgari property guests find a similar design philosophy: clean lines, peerless materials and furnishings, and a welcoming feeling of spaciousness. Iconic Bulgari photographs, often of vintage celebrities dating to the Dolce Vita, are framed above common areas with a nod to BVLGARI’S red-carpet connections. Original jewellery sketches from the Bulgari archives are placed within rooms or in hallways, recalling the 130-years of Roman jewellery design history.
Storytelling Through Clothing
For several years now, the fast fashion trend has gripped the industry, but signs of a change heading into a more sustainable direction are being watched. The former fashion consultant and communications director, Lina Miccio, recently launched the label Speaking Garments. Focusing on creating less, but with more meaning, the brand is offering highly personal pieces that are meant to outlast seasonal trends.
The collections exist at the edge of fashion and fine arts, because the brand collaborates with international cross-disciplinary artists each season. The first collaboration is with Cologne-based artist Michail Prigelis, who highlights the beauty of disused airplane fragments, which are sourced from a discarded DC-10 aircraft and flown in from the Mojave Desert of California to his studio.
In the Speaking Garments production facilities, they are then repurposed as brooches onto a limited edition collection of sweatshirts. The garments are limited to 100 pieces, each hand sewn, outfitted with a detachable airplane part and sold with a certificate hand-signed by the artist. In addition to the sweatshirts, T-shirts, depicting a black and white photograph of Spanish-French clown Charlie Rivel, which was once a Pan Am publicity, are concluding the collection.
This is making each garment a desirable piece of art. Speaking Garments focuses on telling compelling, unusual stories. The label reinvents each garment as a canvas for artistic freedom rather than exploiting it.
Wim Wenders Shot Jil Sander’s Spring/Summer 18 Campaign
The German luxury brand Jil Sander has chosen the director Wim Wenders to shoot their SS 18 campaign starring the first collection by the new creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier.
The German director filmed a short movie of five episodes, which is called “Paused By” and setted in Berlin, marking his first collaboration with Jil Sander. The foregoing trailer already indicates the sense of expectation that spreads throughout the films as they are paused at intense moments, leaving the viewer captivated and curious to know what comes next.
Not missing the expressive style of Wim Wenders, the five different scenarios consist of mysterious shots which are, like the soulful collection itself, an ode to pure emotion and a delicate balance between innocence and sophistication.
The episodes will be released by the beginning of December 2017 and the frames of the movie will serve as the advertising campaign images.
Kenzo: To Keep And To Hold
Kenzo Takada’s impact on the fashion landscape is one that can still be felt far and wide. The designer’s ground-breaking success paved the way for many other foreign designers to venture towards the French capital, often times with nothing more than dreams in their suitcases and insatiable ambition fuelling their drive. Current creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have always strived to keep that feeling of openness alive since joining the brand in 2011.
By honing in on the boundless energy and creativity that characterised the maison’s founding father, the pair’s creations honour the house’s legacy, including its original spirit and visual language. La Collection Memento No 1 – rooted in pieces that were created during Takada’s journey – is a new series that echoes the now-established brand’s history, celebrating its rich archives with pieces that are Kenzo through and through. What’s more, this isn’t a one-off – it is merely the first chapter of a story that is bound to keep us coming back for more. It was Takada’s collaboration with image maker Hans Feurer on a ground-breaking advertising campaign that inspired the first instalment of this retrospective. Shot in Lanzarote and featuring modelling icons Sayoko and Iman, the campaign challenged the boundaries of fashion advertising and artistic imagery, ushering in a fresh take for Kenzo’s collections.
The floral prints of that very collection serve as the foundation for Lim and Leon’s modern interpretation, spurring them on to delve even deeper into the archives – a veritable treasure trove of references for any self-respecting fashion enthusiast. Knitwear and dresses from Fall 1981, and a wool beret from ten years before, inspired the tailoring evident in the women’s collection. High collars on ruffled smock dresses and floral prints are combined with iconic Kenzo detailing, like lion, elephant and wild animal prints paired with platform sandals and socks. For menswear, warm winter down coats are shown alongside cotton poplin printed pyjamas. Reversible coach jackets with eagle jacquard and varsity jackets walk alongside each other, and denim backpacks from the darkest corners of the archives are transformed with the addition of Kenzo’s floral prints from Fall 1983. In advance of the in-store arrival of La Collection Memento No.1, the American duo also announced the launch of their new unisex sneaker, the Kenzo Move. With the versatility of sneakers for everyday life, including their ability to stand their ground for all occasions, the Kenzo Move follows the same trajectory as the collection itself. An archival tiger motif adorns the sneakers whose simple, clean lines are the perfect pairing for the accompanying bright colourways. Bright red and flashy pink, cool mint, blue and black – these will be pounding pavement near you before you know it!
Diesel Says No To Uncool Wool
The innovative denim and lifestyle brand Diesel has set up a new campaign this winter, fighting uncool Christmas sweaters with the help of a sheep in a creative and unconventional video starring creative director Nicola Formichetti. Leaning on their campaign “Go with the Flaw”, Diesel invites the audience to part with their Christmas sweaters, which have already lost their irony a long time ago. This Christmas season, a real professional will help out in the fight against bad taste knits: a sheep. Because, who else knows more about wool than this cosy animal. Framed by this campaign, Diesel has created a Christmas product-guide on the brand’s website.
Mystical Symbolism: The Salon de la Rose + Croix in Paris
Mysterious, mythical and visionary themes, often drawn from literature, will be presented by the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in an exhibition called “Magical Symbolism: The Salon de la Rose + Croix in Paris”. It’s the first museum exhibition showing the highlights of a series of Salons, which were annually held in Paris from 1892 to 1897. At these art gatherings, images of femmes fragiles and fatales, androgynous creatures, chimeras, incubi and sinuous lines, attenuated figures and anti-naturalistic forms were the norm. Including approximately forty works by a cross section of artists, the possibility to take a fresh look at the legacies of late nineteenth-century symbolist art is provided. The exhibition is taking place until January 7th 2018 at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice.
Gucci Cruise Advertisng Campaign 2018: Roman Rhapsody
Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s Creative Director, chose his home town as the backdrop of the Italian brand’s latest cruise campaign, taking us on a journey to Roman apartments and neighborhood parks. Unfiltered portraits, taken by the British photographer Mick Rock present real people in real places. Rock’s experience in capturing legends such as David Bowie, Syd Barrett, Lou Reed, Iggy Pop, Blondie, Talking Heads, the Ramones and the Sex Pistols on camera, stood him in good stead on this assignment for the Gucci cruise ‘18 collection. The title, ”Roman Rhapsody”, already implies the rock’n’roll atmosphere of the pictures. A wide portfolio of mainly Italian talents star in the vintage-inspired images, celebrating genuine non-conformists and eccentrics. The flamboyant portraits were created in the talents’ homes, local gardens and during intimate studio shoots. In addtion to the quirky fashion shots, still-life images of everyday objects are placed randomly throughout the campaign. A film component, shot by Chuck Grant, completes this unique project.
Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2018
The sound of Yohji Yamamoto’s guitar and his slow chant of a few verses in French that sounded like a melancholic ode to the passing of time served as the backdrop of his show in the harsh concrete space of Cité de Mode et du Design along the river Seine. Walking at a slow, almost meditative pace, forty looks slowly approached the audience. It’s not the first time that Yohji Yamamoto staged a show far from the usual fashion speed where models storm in walking at a frantic tempo. It’s his own way of refusing the routine of the fashion system, the unbearable seasonal timing and the glossy world in toto.
For Spring Summer 2018, the Japanese master worked on one of his favourite elements: the button. Appearing in white, black and red it served as the focal element in order to form impressive deconstructed silhouettes in the designer’s signature black, with splashes of white, grey and red. Intricate forms were the absolute protagonists. Knotted, layered, attached, draped in outwear, jackets and dresses.
It felt like a return to the radical Yohji Yamamoto from the early years, the Yohji Yamamoto who, just last season, reflected on the passing of time, on death, on the future of his brand. Few dresses with organic transparencies and the floating scarves in skirts in other looks suggested the soft fragility of the feminine identity, its fluctuant form in constant motion. The final dresses with an unexpected open back on a pristine and composed front like that of a shirt and high collar dress, once again played with the idea of duality, of contradiction. Themes dear to this master whose vision is still as strong as ever.
Lover’s tryst at Givenchy Spring/Summer 2018
Former Chloé Creative director Claire Waight Keller opts for a cool Parisian allure and reinvents Givenchy for her debut at the Palais de Justice. The collection builds on the power of duality and romance. His becomes hers – it’s a transformation of seduction happening right under the eyes and ears of Hubert de Givenchy. The collection is influenced by his colour palette of black, white and navy touched up with vermillion red and mint. The garments fall in sharp line with bold shoulder cuts. Graphic clover prints inspired by the 1960s, animal motifs and velvet are combined with sportive breton knits. Polka dots and soft point d’esprit tulle add a touch of femininity, while satin bows and a caped back pay a modern homage. Vichy checks, brocade and moiré on skin indicate a luxurious club atmosphere. This collection certainly makes Claire Waight Keller a duly successor to Ricardo Tisci and one to watch for her upcoming seasons at the head of the iconic French brand.
FENDI announces partnership with Galleria Borghese
The Italian fashion house Fendi has always had a strong connection to Rome and the fine arts. It all started, amongst others, with the restauration of the Trevi Fountain in 2015, followed by the opening of the first floor of Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana to the public, where Fendi’s headquarters are now. The brand recently announced a three-year-partnership with the prestigious Galleria Borghese in Rome, which is guarding the most relevant and best preserved paintings by Italian painter Caravaggio. Hence Fendi will be supporting the Caravaggio Research Institute, which sees the constitution at Galleria Borghese as a center of studies, diagnostics and artistic-historical research aiming to become a primary reference. To spread the word about the project, Fendi and the Galleria Borghese created an exhibition on the artist which will be taking place all over the world at the most high-end-venues. However, the first exhibiton that Fendi will be supporting is the “solo one”, which is dedicated to Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the most representative artist of the Baroque period in Rome. The exhibition will be inaugurated on the 31st of October and will be open to the public from November 1st 2017 to February 4th 2018.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2018
A little white silk scarf as the invitation. The dual meaning of its simplicity and its connotation as a blank canvas upon which to create anything possible.
The canvas of what Dries Van Noten declared to be one of his main inspiration for this season? Picasso’s Femmes à Leur Toilette, the artwork created in 1938 by using the technique of collage comprised mostly of found wallpapers scraps.
Within that same spirit Dries Van Noten’s Spring Summer 2018 is a collage of different prints, silhouettes, textiles, and decades, carefully and exceptionally matched together as only Dries Van Noten is able to create, with a splash of pink hues over the entire collection.
A joyful and positive message against the dark times we are facing daily, as the Belgian designer declared backstage
There were slip dresses in monochrome powder pink, followed by checked suits with 90s shoulders and a tulle veiling over it, beautiful scarf-dresses reminiscent of the 70s, and of course the kimonos, the sparkling jacquard , the bomber jacket, the oversized sweaters over silk scarf-skirts .
All the Dries Van Noten elements in a vortex of mismatched prints and colours. It is almost contradictory how the collection comprised of all these motifs resulted in an extreme elegance, whispered, confident. Dries Van Noten is one of the few designers who can work with such a broad palette of codes and emotions while staying true to his rhetoric.
As the collection was presented in the dazzling space of the Hotel de Ville - dazzling as the make up created by Peter Philips with crystals laid along the lower lip and around the eyes – it gave a sense of romantic nostalgia when the a cappella version of “Be my Baby” resonated as the first look walked in. And we can’t help but humming that tune.
Woolrich Present the New Footwear Line
Woolrich expands its already vast offering to include footwear with a project that echoes the brand’s values and focuses around iconic garments like the Arctic Parka.
The contemporary, urban and bustling landscapes of Berlin and London act as the backdrop for the latest collection styled and shot by Highsnobiety.
Here, the typical traits of hi-tech outdoor shoes meet contemporary design making for a succesfful crossover between sophistication and outdoor elements, hi-tech features and city styles.
The line features two soles created exclusively for Woolrich by Vibram, renowned for their mountaineering-friendly footwear. These guarantee maximum quality come rain or shine and for the most rugged of terrains, providing comfort and lightness. The first model is based on the legendary ‘carrarmato’ mountain sole while the other features a brand new sole incorporating the brand’s iconic check as a technical element.
High quality materials and construction techniques are paired with Italian design in the collection that is divided into two model categories. The classic Running Shoes available in different versions and the traditional mountain Boot are both revitalized classics, rejuvenated through the use of the most modern manufacturing techniques.
The collection’s stand-out piece, however, is the Hiker Boot: a fusion between a genuine walking boot and a sole that stands its ground in the city thanks to the special Vibram compound.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2018
“American horror, American dreams” was the underlying theme in this year for Raf Simons’ vision for Calvin Klein. It was a combination of suburbia’s bouncy cheerleaders and Hollywood’s flashiest gore. Hitchcock inspired blonde beauties were decked out in rubber lab coats and latex surgeon's gloves, and pixie-haired damzels strode down in flimsy nightgowns à la Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby.
Once again, Simons has collaborated with artist Sterling Ruby, this time for the runway design: metal buckets, axes, and falling pompoms hung from the ceiling. Reminiscent of old blockbuster horror flicks, the show seemingly could have taken a sinister tone. Instead, it felt lighthearted and embracing of over-the-top carnage and theatrics; perhaps a playful hint of how the world perceives America as a whole?
Moose Knuckles Fall/Winter 2017 Campaign
Moose Knuckles, founded in 2007, was established based on the goal of creating the leanest, toughest and most luxurious sportswear. And no one would be more adept at making indestructible outerwear than the Canadians: the Moose Knuckles’ design family is based in Montreal, its furs are sourced in Toronto and traditional factories are located in Winnipeg. Their first two iconic styles, the Stirling Parka and the Ballistic Bomber, became instant success stories, and have kept many Canadians, and snow bunnies worldwide, warm since then. Moose Knuckles have continuously delivered resistant and stylish waterproof coats, lightweight jackets, knitwear, shirting and accessories.
For their new campaign, Moose Knuckles took us many years into the post-apocalyptic, barren future of the year 6969. Capable of surviving even in that climate, thanks to their toasty outerwear, a group of four fearless women and men travel perpetually in search of food, supplies and, most importantly, joy. The pack venture into the great northern wilderness of Canada, braving harsh winds and snowstorms, and come upon a civilisation build on the love of music, company and celebration. A perfect companion in our dark times, Moose Knuckles snug apparel will most definitely get you wherever you want to go in the harshest of climates.
The Weinmeister: The Heart of Berlin Mitte
If you are planning a trip to Berlin, you won’t want to miss the raw, energetic street art that overran the Mitte district after the Wall came crumbling down in 1989. Right in the middle of this colorful cultural hub is the Weinmeister hotel, which welcomed the art style that made its neighborhood famous: signature rooms and staircases were “paint bombed” by outstanding graffiti artists such as René Turrek and The Paint Club collective, giving the hotel a chic, modern ambience.
Its proximity to Museum Island and contemporary galleries, such as the C/O Gallery or KW Institute, make it a popular destination for a young creative crowd angling for inspiration. Fashion hunters can flock to the nearby Herckescher Markt to discover the latest German designers, or get their high-end fix at the Friedrichstrasse. And you mustn’t worry about finding your way home once the sun goes down: the Weinmeister’s gleaming metal facade, which has earned it the nickname “the Golden Cage,” makes it impossible to miss.
A five minute walk from Alexanderplatz, the Weinmeister is in the perfect location to explore the best that Berlin has to offer, day or night. But if you are not up for being sucked into the hustle and bustle of the busy city, you can still breathe in the atmosphere while enjoying a glass of champagne on the private rooftop terrace overlooking Berlin’s iconic TV tower.
Juun.J Spring/Summer 2018
Continuing from last season Juun.J showed Men’s and Women’s collection together once again underlining the genderless aspect of his vision.
Declinations of crisp shirts, white, light blue, or with pin-stripes. Layered and gently floating. Juun.J delivered a beautiful collection in an informal setting where the models circled around a standing audience.
It's a collection that channels a sophisticated summer look where oversized long shirts are wrapped around the body together with the signature's bomber jackets and hoodies.
For her a blue pinstriped over the knee skirt would embrace the body layered over the swiping floor shirts. For him, oversized outwear or deconstructed hoodies would do the game. Sometimes it would be just as beautiful as hard to distinguish the male models amongst the female ones.
White, blue, black, military green interlacing with one beautiful red pleated maxi dress at the end
A series of pin-striped declinations of oversized suits for him an her were certainly the eye-catcher of this season. Long double breasted blazers matched fluid pants, a long split skirt or slim trousers.
Sometime emblematic sentences would resurface from shirts or t-shirts. Almost as an ode to the work of all the young designers who have been building painstakingly an identity like this Korean designer over the last 10 years.
“Life opportunities contracts or expands according to one’s courage” . We can’t but agree.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2018
Late summer nights. Kris van Assche's new Dior Homme storms in the Grand Palais with a collection imbued with that irreverent and smart spirit we have seen since last Summer show one year ago.
The new wave, the 90s rock, the punk, the party kids, the rave. It's all here, this time declined in beautiful reinvented tailoring with the mesmerizing sound of the pulsing show soundtrack composed by sound artist Frederic Sanchez as backdrop.
A black sleeveless t-shits with a printed “Christian Dior Atelier”, paired with tailored fluid pants with a sort of half blazer attached on top at the waistline. A trompe l’oeil recalling the sleeveless suits walking immediately before.
It is again a sophisticate tale of details, of research, new silhouettes for suiting. Kris van Assche channels again his memories, his early years fascinations in music, art, youth subcultures.
The colour palette is mirroring that dark attitude Dior Homme has been channelling lately: black, red, grey, and classic checks on the same tones, with a splash of mauve and blue.
It’s the rave boy, it’s the cool kid on the block but it is also the duality of dressing up in the night. Leather bomber jackets, shorts, preppy knitted waistcoats, with tie-like scarf casually wrapped around the neck.
It’s this “new cool” on suiting.
The set design made possible an extremely close look on the pieces as they walked in. The signature’s detailing, the stitching, the perfection of the cut. And that atmosphere just out of a late night summer music festival.
Fendi's Fall/Winter 2017 Menswear campaign is here!
Fendi’s new advertising campaign for its Fall Winter 2017 Men’s collection is the perfect embodiment of the positive, energetic spirit of the brand’s latest menswear collection designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi.
The Fendi Vocabulary serves as the collection’s main inspiration and is echoed in the array of simple, modern and desirable pieces that comprise a truly multifaceted collection rife with street style and formal elements; diametrically contrary but complementary nonetheless. From ready-to-wear and fur to bags, shoes and accessories, the entire range is permeated with an uplifting optimistic mood that is echoed on the garments themselves through the word of the Fendi Vocabulary.
When times are tough, optimism remains a shiny beacon of hope. Fundamental values of the past that have been instilled in us like trust, friendship, “LOVE” and “HOPE” carry an unmistakeable energy that urges us to face fears and challenges head-on.
Silvia Venturini Fendi was inspired by the immortal message of these little words and journeyed into a vademecum of Ernest Hemingway, picking up universal, key words like “LOVE”, “TRY”, “HOPE”, “LISTEN”; in their simplicity these short utterances convey an immortal message of positivity and optimism that can help us in difficult moments.
The campaign’s video, shot in the Canary Island of Lanzarote, highlights the bond between nature and city, humanity and nature, effortlessly bridging notions that may seem disconnected at first glance. C
Chosen for his contagious energy and positivity, model Nicolas Ripoll is seen running and jumping as if in a tribal dance of sorts through the incredible and awe-inspiring volcanic landscapes of the island promoting the brand’s idea of clear-headed optimism and joy in the sight of the future – no matter how rocky it may become.
Check out the preview video here
https://youtu.be/jyJ3FB4LbIc and head to www.fendi.com to discover more from July 14th!
Michaël Borremans Dances at Zeno X
Michael Borremans has launched his sixth solo exhibition at Zeno X, a Mecca of contemporary painting in the heart of Antwerp, Belgium. Sixteen Dances, the title of the show, is primarily a reference to the changing and multi-faceted nature of painting, and how the medium has the ability to forever adapt to the contemporary zeitgeist.
The paintings are structured into three series: this is a typical way of working for Borremans, who has a necessity to always dig deeper and discover new meaning through multiple variations of the same theme. The paintings function almost as vignettes, which give the exhibition a cinematic feel: a clear continuum is interrupted by random stills which confuse any possible narrative structure. This gives an ambiguous and dark atmosphere, encapsulating the morbid and grotesque scenes present in the paintings, such as babies dancing covered in blood and figures in straight jackets. Borremans undoubtedly takes references from Bosch, Bruegel and Goya in this series of works, which questions the morality of human nature and exploits its subconscious savagery and cannibalism. While absorbing these haunted tableaux, viewers are left feeling dread and disorientation: a feeling that permeates in our current age and society.
The exhibition will run until October 14th 2017.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Japanese style is synonymous with clean lines and simple silhouettes, tailoring does the talking and superfluous intricacies are omitted for the sake of refinement. This clearly hit a nerve with Mr. Armani who, for his Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collection, looks to establish a dialogue between East and West that shuns the cliché of Japanesque folklore-based collections.
Elegant tuxedos and martial arts-inspired Kimonos walked the runway alongside urban and sleek suits that were Armani through and through, upholding years of tradition.
The Far East may have served as Mr. Armani’s main inspiration this season but it was incorporated in the pieces in a way that was far from ostentatious. Elements of Japanese iconography were discreetly present on sporty boxy jackets and parkas that were in turn layered on ankle-length culottes or breezy silk cargo pants.
Armani’s trademark colour, dark blue, helped tie the collection together, grounding it in modernity and rendering it classically elegant and simultaneously modern and inspired. To contrast the darkness flashes of lacquer red were added to the mix while silk, the collection’s main fabric appeared in floral jacquard, printed with cherry blossoms or graffiti and abstract calligraphic prints.
Familiar and Armani, yes. Ordinary, not so much.
Etro Spring/Summer 2018
Etro’s Spring Summer 2018 Menswear collection pays homage to the spiritual wanderers of the psychedelic generation who inspire Kean Etro’s vividly colourful journey. Hints of Indian mysticism and talismans manifest themselves along with sacred cows, elephants, tantric couples and Tarot figures within quintessentially Etro paisley patterns.
Fabrics were inspired by Kean Etro’s grandfather as he worked tirelessly to recreate their unique DNA in his Italian atelier. Colours are worked into dyes that preserve the essence of the collection’s spirit with coral, tangerine, turquoise and fuchsia working both together and in contrast with earthy browns, military greens and bronze.
Linen is a permanent fixture for Etro’s Spring/Summer 2018 offering, affording the collection a casual yet tailored feel that’s so at home during the summer months. Lightweight, multi-coloured blazers with paisley prints and coloured Madras checks are all the rage while raw wool combinations ensure that the pieces remain light enough for the warmer months.
Ornamentation also plays an important role in the collection. Painted by hand in swirls of Etro’s favoured palette for the season or embroidered mandalas and floral motifs elevate the look of cargo jackets. This season’s trousers play with volume – ranging from slim cut tuxedo-style evening-wear version to linen Madras slacks for a more casual mood and ornately embroidered denim.
Plein Sport Spring/Summer 2018
This season the vision for Plein Sport was a futuristic gladiatorial combat, in a world where survival of the fittest becomes a way of life. As pole dancers perform on stage, fighting cages are lowered into the arena and twenty pro wrestlers and boxers set the tone for what’s sure to be a fashion show that has Plein written all over it. Both literally and metaphorically.
As Plein Sport warriors take to the runway, one thing becomes apparent, functionality is of the utmost importance: sweatshirts, hoodies, leggings and vests are produced with technical, intelligent fabrics for a line that strives to be perceived as an innovative performance kit rather than a series of fashion statements in leisure wear.
Pieces are designed to move with the body, accompanying its every step with stretch materials and netting that stand the test of intense exercise and high temperatures whether you’re on the streets, the ski slopes of the treadmill of your gym. Motivational mantras complete the garments, emblazoned across sear pants while metallic fabrics pay tribute to the silver masks of El Santo, Mexico’s iconic wrestling hero.
Harder, Better, Faster, Stronger… Plein Sport shows no signs of slowing down just like a determined, disciplined athlete hungry for the win.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
That Friday feeling… it manifests itself mere moments before you leave the office, ready for the weekend adventures of your choice. Almost tangible, it is infused with an air of optimism, relaxation and regrouping no matter the season. Come the summer months, however, and that fleeting moment of utter freedom is accentuated further by longer, sunnier, brighter days and a generally elevated mood.
If that sounds all too familiar, then you’re totally grasping the inspirational context behind Fendi’s Spring Summer 2018 Men’s collection that walked the runway on Monday as part of Milan’s Fashion Week Schedule. This is executive realness on the verge of the weekend. Corporate aplomb walking hand-in-hand with sunny holiday daydreams. In a naturally subdued palette of beiges, sand, greens and flutters of that all-important pink, Fendi’s latest offering focuses around formalwear so versatile that stands its ground from boardroom to pool bar: suits and big blousons are worn with sleeveless shirts while shorts and tracksuits find their perfect matches in silk shirts. Slingback loafers are paired with running socks and neckties complete even the most laid-back looks.
This season sees the advent of what the brand has coined ‘The Skype look’: a playful mismatch of sartorial options that somehow work together while concealed behind the office desk: tops and bottoms clash beautifully and interestingly enough, so do the fronts and backs of many pieces. All notions that adhere to that mood-flipping feeling that rolls around when you’re about to clock out.
This is corporate escapism, the Fendi way!
Amsterdam Trail: A Unique Art Route
From the 5th to the 7th of May 2017, the sixth edition of The Amsterdam Trail and its unique approach to art are coming to the Dutch capital. The trail combines ethnography with contemporary arts and this year’s edition will concentrate around the Spiegelgracht, Amstelveld and Jordaan areas. Unexpected combinations that explore time and origin arise as artworks dating back to 3000BC, Egyptian mummies and contemporary videos are visited.
Jaap Wagemaker’s artworks will be shown at the Borzo Gallery in conjunction with objects from Oceania inspired by his original ethnographic collection.
Gallery Lemaire will host an installation from artist Jan Hoek in which ‘The Pattaya Sex Bubble’, central image of the piece, is surrounded by images from Africa, Indonesia and New Guinea. Additionally sculptures, jewellery, images and even chairs designed by Wieki Somers who drew inspiration by the austere furniture still in use in China, will be shown.
As the lines between ethnography and contemporary art seem to fade into each other we are left to wonder what constitutes contemporary art and what is ethnography. Take Izaak Zwaartjes’ artworks that is very close to a fetish mask from Mali and will be exhibited at the Upstream Gallery.
Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2017
Fluffy fur - fake fur - in a deep shade of lilac, literally covering the sits, walls, columns and the grand stairways of the spectacular concrete architecture of Palais d’Ièna designed by pioneer Auguste Perret for the Exposition Universelle held in 1937.
Miuccia Prada is not new to strong statements during dark times like the current political atmosphere. And she does it in the most dramatic and fun way we have known her for. For Fall Winter 2017 Miu Miu’s girl is covered with fake fur of all the possible sorbet colours: lemon, papaya, green apple, vanilla, tangerine. Mix-matched with sultry embellished silk gowns in soft powder pink and multicolour sporty striped knitwear.
A powerful woman who is not afraid to show off her girly femininity. Miuccia Prada knows how to energize a tired crowd at the end of an intense fashion week calendar. It was all about that: being positive, energetic, alive. Wrapping oversized fuzzy coats, at times embellished with bejewelled belts, but also matching furry caps, and obviously the spectacular portfolio of accessories to give the final blow. It’s pure glamour, a bit 40s, a bit 70s. It’s Miu Miu on the nth degree and we cannot but love it.
Céline Fall/Winter 2017
“The spectator is caught under a cloudy or a starry sky, surrounded by ocean waves or masses of people running towards him, while he is entranced by the dramatic actions of the central round arena. The division between acting and the audience no longer exists. Words, light and music no longer have a set place […] The director alters position and spatial forms and mercilessly subjects the audience to the dynamics of his imaginations”.
Walter Gropius’s words during 1934 Volta congress in Rome resonate strong in Phoebe Philo’s setting choice for her Celine Fall/Winter 2017 show. It’s not the first time that a fashion designer is fascinated by the visionary ideas of the Bauhaus pioneer for his Total Theater, where the audience was supposed to revolve during the performance, shifting the spectators and the stage area to alter the viewer's scale of values and forcing them to participate in the act.
We have known Phoebe Philo for her no-nonsense vision and relaxed, elegant silhouettes as the embodying of the powerful, confident working woman who has no time for superfluous fuss. The catwalk was populated by a tribe of women, with their different life, different tempo, like we would find in any busy street.
At first glance Celine Fall Winter 2017 is just all that. Exceptional tailoring and gimmick-free looks: the long trench coat, oversized tuxedo blazers, long tunics with matching fluent pants for the day and a modern version of emperor dresses for a more dress-up feel, a crisp white shirt.
But Philo’s masterly created a collection again beautifully lying in the details, revealing its stance dramatically at a closer look.
The collection featured beautiful origami-like seam lines as mimicking the movement of the body and its presence. Like when you bend your harm and a crisp fabric would inevitably crease. It’s real life that Philo delicately suggests. Real women who don’t need to scream.
Nicholas Kirkwood Fall/Winter 2017
“The Dark Matters”, for Fall/Winter 2017 Nicholas Kirkwood created a series of monochromatic shoes with a strong 80s aesthetic.
Geometric and graphic lines adorn the heels and boots for this strong and architectural collection. The English designer - inspired by artists like Daniel Buren - used a sculptural approach and the forever-favourite feminine/masculine dichotomy references.
The austerity of black in contrast with lurex and silver mirror smooth leather uppers, plexi-heels, pearls inlaid into a metal frame sole and luxurious black suede, adorn the collection in a play of contrasts. The name of the collection also refers to a new fabric created by Kirkwood: a black glittering stretchy textile used for a new sock-boot and a slip-on mule. It’s a rich and sophisticated collection with new silhouettes and the omnipresent irreverent mood of Kirkwood’s work
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2017
The Faun, the nomads, the young rebels. But also the aristocracy and new gracious creatures. Jun Takahashi’s imaginary world for Undercover Fall Winter 2017 had the feeling of a long distant fairy tale fostering castles and princesses with gargantuan costumes and an ethereal atmosphere.
Like voices from afar, whispering a secret message, the sound of wind chimes as hung to push the spirits away, turning at the very end in a mesmerizing voice, singing on an incredible piano melody. Radiohead Thom Yorke’s fantasy, created ad oc for the show, was the perfect stage for Takahashi’s Utopia.
It was not just a spectacle. It was a beautiful collection where the clothes stood strong, masterly styled, layered and carefully balanced. Knitwear in long dresses, tunics and sculptural coats as out from Coppola’s brash “Marie Antoinette”. Fur trimmed puffa jackets and long velvet skirts. Sweatshirts with metal studs, embroidered with unicorns and insects. A beautiful crimson red, moss green, shades of cerulean blue and a bold yellow, painted this beautiful story. A story of humanity itself. The platform shoes and boots, reminiscent of the faun’s goat legs pushed this narrative image even further, in an enchanting atmosphere.
The Undercover show was a breeze of fresh air during a fashion week heavily politicised.
Marina Abramovic - The Cleaners
Marina Abramovic, one of the most recognised artists of our time, has often utilised her body and the concept of presence as her primary artistic media. Her self-exposure as a means of artistic expression has garnered her criticism and praise in equal measure. Controversial as she may be, her work has earned her a place in the spotlight, a place that she continues to uphold to this day.
Abramovic's first major retrospective in Europe, entitled The Cleaner is being housed in Stockholm's Moderna Museet. It presents several of her best-known performances, including the Relation Works with German artist as well as former collaborator and partner, Ulay. The works take the form of live performances, films, installations and photographs dating back to the 70s and taking us all the way to the present day. Early paintings, and works on paper – some of them exhibited for the very first time – are also part of the exhibition.
A tumultuous childhood and an upbringing rife with religious and revolutionary undertones, shaped the Belgrade-born artist's worldview and played a pivotal, highly influential role in her career. Her work seeks to decipher and explore complex concepts such loss, memory, being and pain. Abramovic doesn't shy away from existential questions and interprets them in ways that may both provoke and move her audiences, delving deep into both the physical and the mental pain threshold in her own unique way. In The Lovers (1988) Abramovic and Ulay undertook a 90-day walk from opposite ends of the Great Wall of China. Their halfway meeting marked the end of their love affair and more than ten-year partnership.
A selection of the artist's performance works will be re-performed in the exhibition by specially-trained performance artists who will lend their talents to works such as Cleaning the Mirror (1995) where one person carefully scrubs clean a human skeleton in a confrontation with morality, Freeing Series (1975) where voice, memory and body are set free, and Art Must Be Beatiful, Artists Must be Beautiful (1975) where the same phrase and actions are repeated obsessively, almost like an incantation.
A new work by Abramovic, in collaboration with Lynsey Peisinger will also be performed at the Moderna Museet's Eric Ericson Hall from the 27th of February to the 5th of March.
The exhibition will run from the 18th of February to the 21st of May 2017.
Raf Simons presents his Fall 2017 collection for Calvin Klein
Raf Simons' debut collection for Calvin Klein was a hotly-anticipated event in this year's New York Fashion Week calendar.
Remaining true to his allegiances, Simons enlisted the help of friend and artist Sterling Ruby, giving him free reign to imagine artwork appropriate for the iconic brand's headquarters. Ruby imagine America.
Raf Simons and Calvin Klein Creative Director, Pieter Mulier created a collection that featured both women's and menswear for Fall 2017 and is in itself an homage to America. “It reflects the environment” said Mr. Simons. “All of these different people with different styles and dress codes. It's the future, the past, Art Deco, the city, the American West... all of these things and none of these things. Not one era, not one thing, not one look. It is the coming together of different characters and different individuals, just like America itself. It is the unique beauty of emotion in America.”
This was a collection in which each piece communicated with the rest; one material impacted another and one style impacted the upcoming ones even in the same silhouettes making for a collection that echoes the essence of diversity.
Marching band uniforms, plastic coated protection, power broker tailoring and antique handcrafted quilting, workwear and westernwear made for this unique parade. The collection finds equal merit in folk and function, food court and courtroom in a romantic and filmic outsider's view of the uniqueness of America.
Philipp Plein Autumn/Winter 2017
Brooklyn-born rap and hip hop artist Nas, opened Phillip Plein's Autumn/Winter 2017 fashion show in the iconic New York Public Library. The show was a personal love letter to the city's neighbourhoods and the diversity that characterises them, highlighting their ability to shape and define an identity. From the Bronx and Chelsea to Queens and the Upper East side, every area has something to offer.
“Neighbourhood Kings” was emblazoned across the collections' garments – it does not matter where you come from, for Philipp Plein, you are the king of your own hood. A diverse cast of personalities and models – including rappers Desiigner and Fetty Wap - strutted down the runway as The Kills performed an electrifying live set.
Music, style, gender and race all had their say in this collection that did not distinguish between men's and womenswear: the girls wear boy's T-shirts and oversized hoodies while the boy's were styles in women's jackets and dresses. Streetwear and couture are also fused together: an embroidered evening dress was paired with a bomber jacket, there was an intarsia mink coat worn with a hoodie and thigh-high sneakers marched alongside heeled boots. Catering to self-expression and their own personal sense of style, the collection's strength lies in its bid to highlight individuality.
But Plein's ode to the Big Apple did end there: the prints also tell a tale of New York. Symbols from dollar pill comprise the print of a hooded fur coat, the Statue of Liberty and FBI (“Fashion Beyond Imagination” patches decorate sweaters and bombers. Floor-length puffer coats and snakeskin jackets are transformed into urban armour thanks to metallic details and the addition of studs.
Mode Suisse Edition 11
February 8th 2017 marked the showcase of Mode Suisse Edition 11 at the Migros Museum fur Gegenwartskunst in Zurich. Once again, a wealth of design talent was represented. Among them high-flying label Julia Seeman, Garnison's post-dandy menswear, LYN Lingerie's luxury handmande collection, Julian Zigerli's second appearance of womenswear and gender-fluid menswear that have made him a household name as well as Berlin-based experimentalist womenswear label studiowinkler. Additionally WUETHRICHFUERST made their much-anticipated debut.
The evening's highlights included the showcase of Masters' students Jeremy Gaillard, Flore Girard de Langlade and Vanessa Schindler, who is the winner of the Prix d'Excellene Hans Wildorf. Additonally Zurich favourites enSoie had the audience craving for its nonchalant style while Vivienne Rohner strutted the catwalk laid with previously unseen carpets by Schonstaub. Special guest designerDorothee Vogel's desirable duvet coats and floaty dresses ended the show.
Edition 12 of Mode Suisse will take place in Zurich in September 2017.
The adventurous gentlemen of BOSS Fall/Winter 2017
Gentlemen who voyage across the world without ever losing their style, inspired Hugo Boss for its latest collection, dedicated to those ready to take on the world.
Adventurers and explorers’ outfits that combine performance and functionality with Boss’ key foundations: precise cuts and construction. The modern traveller wardrobe will be composed of wider 80s silhouettes mixed with slimmer, modern cuts and long and short designs. Love for details is never forgotten by the brand that for this collection added a touch of maritime influence in pea coats and duffels secured with buckled straps and chunky fastenings in the style of nautical equipment.
Fabric research is just an added value to a proposal that puts quality first. Boiled wool, bonded leather and cotton to provide protection and create incredibly à la mode oversized shapes. Fisherman-style knitwear is crafted in chunky constructions and zipped closed with ring pulls to be functional and masculine at the same time. The color palette varies from off-white to burgundy and olive green passing through navy shades.
Modern travellers can sleep soundly: their luggage will always be fashionable.
NEW TENDENCY x Meiré und Meiré
New Tendency showed its 2017 product innovations at the Meiré und Meiré Factory.
The Bauhaus tradition has influenced the development process of everyday contemporary objects for New Tendency. Their furnishings serve to compose an ideal setting for modern working environments. With the emergence of co-working spaces, New Tendency have picked up on the need of flexible and functional configurations and strive to inspire those who are surrounded by their creations in their daily lives and their professional environments.
Showcasing their work in one of the leading creative agencies in Germany was therefore a natural progression.
Among other objects, New Tendency presented its December Edition at the Meiré und Meiré factory, a line that was the result of a fruitful collaboration with the agency, furthering their devotion to creative partnerships. The Artist's Edition of the lamp served as the inspirational springboard for the creation of New Tendency's premium line, Black Label that will soon be expanded to include more exclusive pieces with clear geometrical components.
Raw structures, industrial materials and natural elements formed the perfect hybrid framework for New Tendency's minimalist yet progressive designs. The presentation at the Meiré und Meiré factory didn't treat New Tendency's furnishings as conventional exhibits; they were instead integrated in the agency's daily goings-on serving as both a working space and a meeting point.
For New Tendency's exhibition at the Meiré und Meiré Factory, Mike Meire grouped the December edition pieces with side tables from the META line to create an island in the middle of the space. The installation was staged on raw concrete and stone slabs between dry plants, paint buckets and cardboard boxes. Fluorescent lights floated above it, different colours and textures of plastic foil sheets hanging over the top. The industrial ensemble was characterised by deliberately rudimentary fragmented elements that served as a beautiful contrast to the high-end claim of the products on display.
In the age of digitalisation, where products are becoming increasingly perfect Mike Meiré felt the need to infuse the products with textural and tactile elements proposing 'Brutalism x Redefining Nature' and paying tribute to Le Corbusier's New Brutalism.
Esther Perbandt's androgynous Fall/Winter 2017 collection
Perbandt's anti-cyclical collection for the colder seasons featured visionary garments that play with the slightest of contrast between black and white and gender. The designer is famous for touching upon human limitations delicately, forgetting about diversity and giving birth to a brand that strikes the perfect balance between androgyny and independence.
Esther Perbandt has been internationally recognised for her trademark stage productions. The Fall/Winter 2017 show only reinforced her status with a veritably unconventional yet sophisticated event that attracted celebrities from around the globe as well as personalities from the world of design, art and fashion; collectively they paid homage to a powerful production.
BILLIONAIRE Fall/Winter 2017: Texas under spotlights
Once upon a time, soap opera characters served as primary sources of style inspiration and this season Billionnaire by Philipp Plein travelled back in time to pick up the trend. Remember Dallas?
Set in Texas, the show reached cult phenomenon status and was Philipp Plein's moodboard for Fall/Winter 2017. The Billionnaire man is a wealthy and stylish globetrotter: skiing in Aspen and gambling in Monte Carlo. The collection reflects the attitude of a character that isn't shy about showing off his personality.
Snakeskin jackets, chinchilla bombers and full-length overcoats feature alongside astrakhan and crocodile skins as the ultimate statements of elegance whether on the slopes or in the city. Trousers are high-waisted and denim takes centre stage in trousers and double-breasted jackets.
From knitwear to eveningwear the attention to detail is meticulous, fully conveying Plein's references: classic Texan hat included!
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2017: Between High Fashion and Mother Nature
The uneven fight between humans against a powerful and merciless nature is the chore of Jil Sander's latest collection that brings us an incredible taste of glacial novelty for the upcoming Fall/Winter season.
Inspired by 'Independent People' by Nobel Prize winning author Halldor Laxness, the collection plays with the colors of Icelandic landscapes ranging from chalk grey to yellow. Shades of ice, brown and lava are chosen to give life to coats, parkas, heavy felts and comfortable shapes designed to face the harsh temperatures of Nordic winter in style. Military cotton and heat-sealed waterproof wool make coats and blousons, put together by big Velcro stripes.The collection's prints are a new take on glitch art that plays with disintegrated images.
“Rather keep your mind free and your path your own”said Laxness, and Jil Sander looks to have learned the lesson perfectly.
A sporty-chic Z ZEGNA at PITTI 2017
The latest Z Zegna collection takes you on a vintage ski trip for Pitti Uomo 2017, a sporty-chic mood that nobody expected but many welcomed.
It is no secret that the Florence fashion fair was created to bring innovation and prêt à porter all around the world and Zegna knows that well. For the first time the Italian brand presented a line that combines tailoring and performance evolution. For the slopes and the streets, the proposal is a Techmerino total look that takes a quintessential role in this season where layering is key. A foundation of matte black, optical woolen, asphalt grey mélange, light camel and pine leaf green in combination with sportswear graphics take us back to the late 70’s ski seasons in Sankt Moritz where sport never strays too far from fashion and elegance.
The brand decided to converge comfort and excellence in a savvy colour palette that pays tribute to the textile innovation Z Zegna is known for.
Louis Vuitton’s “Series 6”: between French theatricality and aesthetics
Paris with its romantic promenades sur la Seine it’s the star of “Series 6”, the new Spring/Summer 2017 advertising campaign by Louis Vuitton.
Like a flâneur, Bruce Weber, captured the allure of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s favourite heroines bringing back to life the atmosphere of artistic enthusiasm that typify the city of lights. Michelle Williams, Jennifer Connelly, Adèle Exarchpoulos and Sasha Lane become the modern inspirations for a reimagined Paris. The result portrays powerful silhouettes that comprise a collection of strongly cultural referred Parisian moments. The season’s handbags, the long jersey dresses and the tailored suit become characters in their own right, the perfect companions for these pictorial personalities.
“It is to this cultivated, intellectual, original and free-spirited Parisienne that I wanted to pay tribute” said Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative epicenter of nowadays French elegance.
The Givenchy Tribe
Givenchy's latest campaign has just been released and the abundance of the brand's signature codes do not go unnoticed. Shot by photographers Mert and Marcus and designed as a double page spread, the campaign plays on the concept of duality and features powerful men and women whose intrepid natures manage to withstand space and time.
A well-balanced blend of feminine and masculine elements that remain classic and chic are the focal points of the campaign. Two girls become twins by dressing identically and a boy plays fashion chameleon by rocking a formal and a streetwear look in a Mars-like landscape. Pair the adventurous nature of the above with the tightly cropped portraits of Givenchy's personality gang and you are given the impression that, although they appear different they do in fact to belong to the same style-savvy tribe.
Of course, Givenchy's now iconic Horizon and Cross Body bags could not be left out of the equation. Serving as a mark of recognition for the brand, their presence encapsulates the luxury label's long-standing fame while looking towards a future of duality.
K•Swiss Turns Camo for its 50th anniversary
K•Swiss opted for a stylish celebration for its anniversary. The sportswear brand teamed up with Japanese street fashion label AAPE BY A BATHING APE to launch a limited edition collection.
For the occasion, the American tennis brand turns its classic '66 model into a fashionable camouflage sneaker featuring, its now famous, ape-inspired pattern. This makes for a fresh, new take on the brand's most iconic silhouette.
K•Swiss’ signature five stripes, classic D-rings and the unique three-piece toe design along with an all-covering printed pattern fuse together to creates a blend that reflects the DNA of both K•Swiss and AAPE.
Coach and The Webster: between ready-to-wear and Baseman’s designs
Many were the brands that presented their upcoming collections at Miami Art Basel, but it was Coach’s collaboration with The Webster and artist Gary Baseman that transformed it in a special universe of fashion pieces and design sketches.
To celebrate the arrival of the Women’s pre-spring collection and an exclusive preview of the Men’s Spring 2017, the three joined forces to create customized objects based on Baseman characters and his signature “Wildbeast” print.
American iconography is reflected all over the collections through juxtaposing unexpected images and familiar, nostalgic themes. Moreover, at the heart of the project a tougher take on masculinity takes over, celebrating those who are brave and bold enough to subvert conventions and status quo.
During the event, Baseman, gave attendees a sneak peek of the collection’s mood, hand-painting three one-of-a-kind motorcycle jackets.
Exclusive design for an exclusive experience.
Le Narcisse Blanc: pure Art de Vivre
Like a bright flower blossoming in the heart of Paris, Le Narcisse Blanc is a contemporary pleasure dome where guests can breathe the magic of the French capital.
Situated between the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides, this 5-star hotel and spa casts an incredible view to the Seine and the most majestic Parisian buildings from its bohemian terraces. Le Narcisse Blanc offers the proper Art de Vivre feeling through its cozy sitting rooms, luxurious spa with swimming pool, hydrotherapy massage jets and sauna and last but not least its 37 spacious bedrooms and suites in silky champagne tones.
Designed in luxurious and refreshing taste by "Laurent & Laurence", the hotel creates a perfect balance between Art Nouveau and Art Deco that are fused with contemporary elements, serving as an homage to the perfect Parisian lifestyle. Because, in the words of Victor Hugo “Respirez Paris, preserve l’âme”.
In the heart of Manhattan, at 160 Madison Avenue, a modern and unique store is opening its doors. This is the first Flagship Store of Moteni&C, Dada, and UniFor, joining forces to project the classic and elegant Italian style into New York City. A collaboration between aesthetic and cultural harmony mixed with personality and imagination.
Showcasing the concept of a modern art collector’s house, the store hosts a collection of works by contemporary artists. Discover monochrome sculptures by Santo Tolone and pop hieroglyphics by Stephen Felton alongside the works of young artists.
Designed by Vincent van Duysen, the store also creates a platform to support artists in the height of their creativity that will be presented at the Molteni Museum.
The immediate sensation is that of a quiet intimacy, as if one could slighlty hear the clock tickings spread over a place that has always been there.
The new Berluti flagship store in Munich is the second one to be opened in Germany, yet it is the first in Europe to launch a totally new concept for the interiors.
Located on prestigious Maximilianstrasse and in a Neo-Renaissance building, the design highlights the brand’s luxury heritage, yet respecting the typical Munich architecture.
On the one hand, the preference for a square, clean design suggests Berluti affinity with sobriety and composure, which is in turn calibrated with the presence of delicate textures that characterise the stone finished beige walls.
As well, the hand-polished bronze shelves and frames, the marble tables, the polished wood cabinet and the herringbone pattern over the matte wooden floor seem to complete each other.
More elements, such as a dramatic wall lined with symbolic tincture bottles, a wooden display cabinet and classic club armchair intensify the relaxed atmosphere, gently illuminated by pale lightings that unveil the precious details of Berluti collections.
The new Berluti boutique is the perfect place where contemporary gentlemen can talk about elegance in detail.
For Fall 2018, Berluti introduces their new series for bags and shoes.
Paying tribute to manuscripts and the calligraphy established by Olga Berluti, the B-way range features seven proposals, this time exposing the nylon traditionally used for the Venezia trolleys.
Featuring a water repellent finish, as well as the patinated Venezia leather and the iconic Scritto motif, Complice cross-body bag, Evasion sporty bag and Volume MM backpack stand out for their urban design and sporty characteritics.
With a great focus on versatility, some products feature a double function. For instance, Duo is an extra-large bag in technical fabric, nylon and calf leather, which can be worn as a tote or on the shoulders, while Esprit is a compact ouch thought to be used both as a clutch and bag organizer.
To complete the accessories range, the Croquis toiletry case includes a comfortable internal pocket, while the Fast Track shoes combine the sporty soul of a sneaker with the mountain style of Brunico and Greta Garbo boots.
Practical yet extremely devoted to a very classical and clean design, the new collection will be available in Berluti stores from April 2018.
Now closer to their customers than ever before, on the 5th March 2018 historical Fashion House Givenchy has launched their new omni-channel platform to its five main European markets: the UK, Italy, Netherlands, Germany and Spain. The new platform, which has been designed in collaboration with the London-based agency R/GA and curated by artistic director Clare Waight Keller, is characterized by a very fluid layout and clean structure blending real-time access to fashion shows, in-depth features and a mix of news.
Coinciding with product availability in-store, the platform will satisfy consumers desire to purchase several pieces from the designer Spring Summer 2018 collection, including front-of line access to monthly-product drops and online-only capsule pieces. Presenting all products in high resolution, Givenchy’s new strategy (covering also online media, e-mail and social media) celebrates a future-oriented approach to shopping and unique ability to combine very distinctivr web design aesthetics with the increasing improvement of user experiences.
Hogan Galaxy is nothing but an open invitation to take an interstellar journey on another planet. Presented in an (almost) parallel universe, the new luxury sneakers in a iridescent material are characterized by the Maxiplatform H222 motif, while rainbow platforms sign the structure of glossy metallic leathers. In addition to the chunks in purple or green, the H340 and Interactive models are realised with an innovative dipping technique enhancing the psychedelic spirit of the collection.
Travelling around the globe allows people to better incorporating a multicultural sense of community. Delving into Renzo Rosso personal archive, the youth memories and relics collected during his travels in the Eighties set the mood for both men and women collections of Diesel Black Gold. Tribal elements and embroideries recalling Mexican and Peruvian culture on sweaters and jackets accentuate a sense of adventure, although keeping minimal the overall aesthetics.
Angela Missoni loads the patterns of her collection with a nostalgic interpretation of the late Seventies. Trough multiple layers, strong color-contrasting patchworks and stripes, the range is is a rich, intense storytelling. From flowing coats, jackets and dresses narrate different cultures spacing between Italian, Jamaican and Scottish as well as they make reference to the historical brand archive to celebrate the 65th anniversary of the Fashion House.
Jil Sander develop a collection that elaborates a human-oriented vision preferring simplicity to hyper technological communication. Authentically minimal, the proposals do not stiffen the body, instead they achieve a state of fluid elegance trough the delicateness of organza and wool that gently wrap the silhouette. White and more pleasantly white, the color palette includes also precious pieces in navy blue, soft grey and black. Some of the coats and skirts are enriched by floral motifs or softened by round curves, while ribbed knits highlight the dominant mood embracing beauty in the most genuine sense.
Dresses are tool that can change the body and the environment around us. Trough a thoughtful collection named Techno-Primitivism, Francesco Risso brings the individual and the collective to Marni's ethical considerations. Bright hues in blue and acid green take over belted coats, knitted tunics are presented with large trousers, dresses in a vintage 30’s look and eventually a felted coat made of recycled materials highlight the contemporary need for utilitarian and sustainable aesthetics.
AGL is a brand about women. With a presentation held in via della Spiga, Milan the proposals for Shoewear presented by the three sisters are truly devoted to light. Stand out of the collection, the Daylight are classic lace-up, which are reinterpreted trough the language of the brand and achieve a contemporary look with the decisive use of white over the minimalist shape. Luxurious materials and several colors introduce the Warm Light rain boots, while the extravagant Full Light/No Light speckled over-the-knee stiletto boots with a soft bootleg are dedicated to women with a powerful identity.
For the first edition of Armani/Laboratorio, a competition launched on the 31st August 2017, a short movie entitled Una Giacca (A Jacket) has been released by film students that took part of the project held in Milan from 27th November to 6th December last year.
Guided by several professionals including screenwriter and writer Francesca Marciano, Michele Placido, director of photography Luca Bigazzi, film editor Patrizio Marone, costume designers Gabriella Pescucci and Alessandro Lai, set designer Paki Meduri, make-up artist Maurizio Silvi and hair-stylist Aldo Signoretti, the students focused on the storytelling of Armani’s signature.
The short movie is a narration set in-between past and present. In a black and white square scenario, a job interview takes place and a girl is asked to describe a jacket. Afterwards, the examiner goes with the flow of colorful memories back on the day of her very first interview, centring on those little stereotypes and pure, innocent feel of uncertainty that marked the beginning of her professional life.
The jacket, which is a key element in Armani aesthetics, is here turned in a real challenge for the students and an occasion to support the next generation of young talents.
“I’m really proud of this project and of it’s outcome, and I hope it will be the first of a long series of works, because cinema has always been my passion” as Giorgio Armani stated, making a step forward in the progressive bond between fashion and cinema industry.
From the 15th of February to the 23rd on the occasion of the renowned Film Festival, Berlinale Goes Kiez is bringing the event to independent cinema's across the city.
With a selection of films and events, the programme is aimed to create a dialogue between the audience and the filmmakers, who will answer the public’s questions immediately after the screenings and Anne Lakeberg, head of City Kino Wedding, will moderate the discussions on the behalf of Berlinale.
This initiative is also honouring the work of art-house theatres that kept cinema culture active and vital overtime as well as it is consolidating a charismatic engagement with the annual appointment.
Paris is a soft backdrop for Longchamp's Spring 2018 campaign, where a happy-go-lucky Freja Beha Erichsen explores the romantic city photographed by Angelo Pennetta.
Featuring different pieces from the ready-to-wear collection as the safari jacket coming in a variety of materials, from laser-cut leather to canvas, worn with shorts and fringed skirts.
The campaign foucsus on the iconic Mademoiselle Longchamp hobo bag in perforated calfskin, which this season will be proposed also in a mini size. The second pillar of the range is the structured Madeleine that stands out with an innovative three-tone graphic version. Longchamp introduce its new sunglass collection, including the butterfly model with an oversized frame that softly enhances the alluring mood of the season.
Launching the 20th of February worldwide, a film directed by Ujin Lin will be shared on the website and social media channels.
A young woman stands up in front of her best friend’s family gathering. That same day he shocked everyone when arriving with dyed blond hair. At the end of the evening she is having a letter in her hands, a handwritten note to herself.
With a soft and emotional voice she reads: “I know I felt like this before, But now I'm feeling it even more, because it came from you. Then I open up and see the person falling here is me, a different way to be. I want more, impossible to ignore. Impossible to ignore”
As the girl ends reading, they both walk under a shower of confetti, a metaphor of the shower of dreams we all somehow experienced in our youth. A girl and a boy. They have been friends forever. They are Carol and Humberto, or better known as Carol Lim and Humberto Leon.
In the past seasons Kenzo’s creative directors have been looking at the roots of the brand and his founder Kenzo Takada. See the Spring Summer 2018 with its references to musician Ryuichi Sakamoto and iconic model Sayoko Yamaguchi, both muses of Takada back in the days.
This season, Lim and Leon looked at their own story.
Arriving at the show’s venue we found a cinematographic set at the centre of the runway. Seconds before the lights went on too little we all knew that a live-shot movie was about to start, telling a story inspired by that time when Humberto Leon truly bleached his hair at his sister’s wedding in ‘98.
As the real-time shooting was ongoing the lineup of models stormed in.
The 90s subtly permeated through the entire collection. But also that atmosphere we find in the oeuvre of one of the most acclaimed Hong Kong director: Wong Kar Wai. Knitted vests, boxy silhouettes, and a clash of prints with checks and florals. But also high waist pants paired with lengthened bomber jackets: the menswear collection hinted at a myriad of classic references. The use of technical nylon with an iridescent finish together with leopard print faux fur coats delivered still a youthful approach.
For Womens there was a sense of romantic nostalgia, with floral velvet and silk satin cherry blossom dresses, the latter styled with knit twin set. Bustier dresses in heavy denim were matched with t-shirts where accessories reminiscent of a vintage dimension with clasp bags were declined in satin, leather or with crystals beading.
As those final words from actress Ayumi Roux impersonating young Carol were no other than the lyric of Cramberries’s Dream, also chosen as closing soundtrack of the show, we join in remembrance of the recent and unexpected passing away of its lead singer Dolores O’Rien.
The power of senses. The power of what a particular scent can evoke. The smell of winter, of nature, of an alluring simple life.
As we walked in the Hotel de l’Artillerie, a beautiful monastery built at the end of the 17th century in the 7th arrondissement, the magical vision of eight tall narrow bonfires sat at the centre of the cloister. The smell of wood and the dramatically increasing height of the flame, triggered by the sudden wind arose in the evening, gave a extraordinary romantic feeling of warmth and cosiness increased by the woollen blankets waiting at each seat.
We only later discovered that the models were to walk in between those flames and the then dangerously sparkling wood.
It is a fact that the set design by Villa Eugenie gave the perfect background to the collection.
Véronique Nichanian created once again a timeless collection for Hermes Menswear imbued with classic staples pieces. Beautiful sweaters at times slightly slouchy, leathers outwear with a delicate youthful charm like the glossy leather matelassé jackets.
At Hermès the leatherwork Hermes is always outstanding. The butter-soft intarsia leather sweatshirts are only one of the several pieces that caught our eyes. If the evening pieces played around slim silhouettes with lustre finish, oversized and cloudy woollen coats balanced the final look. Nichanian delivered a new spirit in this iconic maison. We are excited to see the developing traits of these sparks.
Kris Van Assche has been inspired by music since his young age channelling the New Wave and the 90s into Dior Homme’s identity.
The set at the Grand Palais with 3 tall glass cases enclosing an installation of intermitting disco light and fog machines, set a rave mood on the sound of Alphaville’s “Forever Young”. But it’s the first looks which disclosed a broader perspective on Van Assche’s Fall Winter 2018 for Dior Homme: variations on suiting.
Sleek and extremely slim, with the blazers narrowing at the waist point.
It was an inspiration drawn from Monsieur Dior himself and his iconic Bar suit. With an horizontal seam on the wasp-waisted cut and the recurring stitched eyelet on blazers,
Van Assche delivered a beautiful perspective on suits with a distinctly modern elegance and cool emphasis.
A myriads of subtle but significant details constellate the several looks on the theme: crossed lapels with a buttoned edge, three-buttons or double breasted with diagonal overlapping conferring a geometrical shape, two buttons with the reinterpretation of tribal graphic images part of that 90s culture.
The collection featured also sporty and relaxed looks with puffer jackets, wool coats, high waist denim trousers, simple. The choice to leave all the shoe laces untied conferred a certain naïve feel, a youthful gesture, recalling the unconventional, the unplanned, the head in the air of a young self.
As ultimate gesture echoing the heritage of the house permeating equally the Mens department: enlarged label stitched on blazers’ sleeves featuring “Christian Dior Atelier”
Woolrich hosted a private cocktail in its first Milan flagship store located on Corso Venezia 3. Taking place on the opening day of Milan Men’s Fashion Week, the event featured a live DJ set by François Pochez. The boutique, spanning 700 square meters, was designed by Japanese studio Wonderwall under the guidance of Masamichi Katayama. The store’s interactive concept comprises a lounge area, a dedicated space for customization, a green area curated by Green Fingers and an Extreme Weather Experience Room, all of which offer an innovative and fully engaging in-store experience.
Perfectly in line with Kris Van Assche’s minimalistic aesthetic, Dior Denim Spring Summer 2018 collection gives space to the reinterpretation of the men suit.
The Dior’s proposal defines the outlines of a urban man, without compromising its timeless and smooth elegance.
Crisp shirts and silk neckties strengthen the Double Denim’s concept, which is firmly enhanced by bold graphics and sheepskin collars, as well as precise cuts and a silver-embossed logo tab. Despite the opulent of details, such as the season’s club kid slogans or the roses embroideries, the look stays balanced. Parts of the collections are also the straight leg 5-pocket jeans, denim shirts and jackets in an array of pale tones, varying from raw indigo to vintage black.
Moreover, exclusive pieces customised with London, Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Hong Kong, and Tokyo initials will be released with the collection and sold in 6 pop up stores around around the globe.
With three windows creating access to Via degli Strozzi and Piazza della Repubblica, Moncler has inaugurated the opening of its new boutique at the very heart of Florence's main shopping area.
The space, which dedicates 160 out of 328 square metres to the sales, stands out for the presence of decorative elements that contribute to highlight a pleasant and sophisticated atmospere. Grigio Carnico marble at the entrance welcomes you to the store, whilst chêne fume wood paneling and a herringbone white Calacatta marble floor creating a balanced contrast with the display areas, whereas metal, glass and mirror details are presented.
Hosting all the Moncler collections including Moncler Grenoble, Gamme Rouge and Gamme Blue lines, the boutique will work as a strategic point for the brand’s retail development plan, which confirms its strong presence as a milestone of the Italian fashion market.
dunhill introduces the London ICON Racing Fragrance
The thrill of the open road and the picture of a man driving through the British landscape in an open-top sports car in racing green were the inspiration for the latest frangrance by dunhill. The racing green was the team color of the English racing drivers at the dawn of motor racing, which is associated with glorious victories and the cutting-edge machinery of Britain’s golden age of engineering. The dunhill London ICON Racing fragrance stands for speed, masculinity and freedom.
As dunhill has always been connected with the history of motoring, an engine turn finish was chosen to decorate the bottle, sporting the automotive engineering technique knurling, which creates a textured geometric pattern and was first used on dunhill metal lighters in 1924. Considered being effortlessly impeccable in manners and appearance, the ICON Racing man is stylish not fashionable.
This energy and masculine sophistication is distiled in every bottle of ICON Racing featuring Guaiac wood, vetiver and musk as warm base notes. Italian bergamot, grapefruit and cardamom note enhance the scent of black pepper and lavender making it the ideal aroma for men on the move.
Available Now: Roberto Cavalli’s Capsule Collection for Spring/Summer 2018
Since December 6th, the Roberto Cavalli SS18 Capsule Collection is available in the online store as well as at the flagship stores in Milan, Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Dubai, Hong Kong and Beijing.
Curated by Creative Director Paul Surridge, the collection encapsulates the new codes of the brand’s identity. The collection has strong, bold and dynamic features, which perfectly give every garment a character of its own and so it does for the women who are destined to wear them.
The clear design language exudes Italian spirit, quality and femininity in a straight-forward and sensible way. The traditional Cavalli codes are being transformed highlighting a more urban and cosmopolitan identity of the maison. Concluding that, this collection represents a new concept of contemporary glamour, focusing on advanced interpretations of daywear.
Saint Laurent Collaborates With Colette and Nobuyoshi Araki
The Parisian concept store colette is offering a unique collaboration with Saint Laurent featuring collectors pieces signed by Anthony Vaccarello. Amongst all the desirable items, you will find a hoodie with Patti Smith print, skateboard decks, a Leica camera, a Polaroid SX-70, speakers and headset by Bang & Olufsen, a red Baccarat crystal heart and Helmets by Ruby in a crystallized and fully black version.
In addition to that, the store presents a unique collaboration between world-renowned artist Nobuyoshi Araki, Saint Laurent and its designer Anthony Vaccarello. The unique series of 16 photographs capture model Anja Rubik and integrates photography and painting techniques.
The series is named “Saint Laurent Shiki-in”, which means “lust for color” in Japanese, and intertwines elements of the world of Saint Laurent with the traditional themes of Araki’s work. All of the pieces can be pre-ordered at colette through the Taka Ishii Gallery and then be sent from Tokyo along with Araki’s signature and certificate of authenticity.
The exhibition will be located on Colette’s Mezzanine, while the range of co-signed collector’s pieces will be displayed on the first floor until the 20th December.
Ballenesque — A Retrospective by Roger Ballen
With its probing, challenging images between painting, drawing, photography and installation, the work of American art photographer Roger Ballen is one of a kind. He was born in New York in 1950 but has lived and worked in South Africa for over 30 years and is often named as one of the world’s greatest art photographers. The term Ballenesque, which is already a firm part of the lexicon, is synonymous with his rich monochrome vision, psychological insights and constant reinvention.
His work is being displayed in the permanent collections of some of the best art institutions such as MoMa in New York, Tate Britain in London, Stedelijk Museum and Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. Reflex Gallery in Amsterdam is hosting a double-sided exhibition of Ballen’s art, comprising a mini retrospective of 30 works and a selection of 150 Polaroid images. These constitute the first display of color images by the artist during his entire career and offer the opportunity to own an original Roger Ballen image in the form of a Polaroid. The exhibition will be open from the 23rd November until the 30th December 2017.
Fendi Partners Up With Rimowa
The Italian fashion house Fendi has joined forces with the iconic luggage brand Rimowa from Germany and created a one-of-a-kind piece. Rimowa stands for design, durability and craftmanship and is popular amongst fashionable people and those working in the industry. The trolley combines Fendi’s savoir-faire and daring creativity with the modern design and high-tech attributes of Rimowa and successfully intertwines the DNA of both brands. The suitcase is made of aluminium and equipped with a Multiwheel system for smooth and effortless traveling.
Featured in the Cuoio Romano leather, the key values and signature design of Rimowa are perfectly coupled with high-quality, unique details and craftmanship such as the sophisticated, emblematic double F logo with a brushed effect on the aluminium, which changes its perception depending on the light. The black leather handles, along with the web belt, that runs across the case in tones of yellow and a touch of black with the logo, gives the case a characteristic Fendi touch. This ultimate traveler’s piece comes with fun stickers and a name tag where you can add your personal details. Available in selected Fendi and Rimowa boutiques and on fendi.com as of December 2017, just in time for Christmas and all those who will be traveling around the world during the festive season.
“Hermès à tire-d’aile. Le monde de Leïla Menchari” exhibition opens at Grand Palais
Imagine a Hermès bag completely covered in coral, placed at the centre of a theatric scene, surrounded by a universe in soft pink, pale orange, mother-pearl and a constellation of rose coloured marine flora. It’s just one of the enchanting worlds created for Hermès by Leïla Menchari, who for over 55 years has been delivering magical representations of the vision around Hermès, the heritage, the craftsmanship, all in a window. First in ’61 as assistant to Annie Beaumel – director of window displays at the Faubourg Saint-Honoré store, and then in ‘78 when she took over the position together with being appointed director of the silk colours committee for the Maison. Leïla Menchari, a beautiful enchanting woman born in Tunisia, who studied at the Écoles des Beaux-Arts in Paris, captured the imagination of Robert Dumas and his son Jean-Louis. A liaison built on respect and trust. Leila, with her fantasy, with her travels, and exotic vision. Hermès, with its craftsmanship, the know-how and discipline. If a Kelly bag would take generally 15 hours to be crafted, it would turn to 50 hours for the ones produced ad hoc for Leïla Menchari’s spectacular window displays.
“The workshops have never said no to me, always “we’ll see, Leïla, we’ll give it a go.” But it wasn’t easy to get them to fully understand my madness: you can’t explain a dream!” Leila Menchari explains how she was given total freedom both in creation and budget. A so-called carte blanche. For Leïla Menchari a window display is a like a small pièce de théâtre, but without the possibility of dialogues, movements or actors to explains the image. During the opening evening of the exhibition at Grand Palais she explained her vision and nature: “I am touched by grace, by the passion for nature and the “extraordinary” in life. Everything becomes extraordinary. This vision gave me a different way of looking at things, with a high degree of surrealism”. When asked if the exhibition was maybe driven by a dose of nostalgia, she gracefully answered: “Nostalgia is fundamental for memory” This is Leïla Menchari, the globetrotter, the dreamer, the collector, and – as nicknamed by her great friend, the French author Michel Tournier – the “reine mage”. The exhibition will be held till the 3rd of December 2017.
Camper x Eckhaus Latta
In the name of their Camper Together model, the shoe brand collaborates with leading international designers from the worlds of art, fashion and architecture. The aim is to create singular products and fuse their signature style with Camper’s unique DNA. Now, Camper partners up with fashion label Eckhaus Latta for a third collaboration. The couple and design duo behind the American brand is known for its avant-garde aesthetic, which they combine succesfully with Camper’s offbeat approach to footwear. Eckhaus Latta designed their own version of the Thelma model, which is a vintage-inspired heeled shoe, playing with flared volumes and refined heights. While the deconstructed design features uppers that combine rich leather with inverted jacquard fabric, the outside is inspired by the cloth upholstery typical of public transportation. All these attributes give the shoe an edgy tongue-in-cheek, anti-fashion vibe. The new Thelma will be available as both a slip-on moccasin and a zip ankle boot from the 31st October at CamperLab stores in New York, London and Paris, selected Camper stores and online.
Prada collaborates with Francesco Vezzoli for “Opera Pompidou”
The Italian artist Francesco Vezzoli is internationally well-known for mirroring the glamour of Hollywood in his unsaleable paintings. Now he partnered up with the fashion house Prada to produce the twelve costumes for the “Opera Pompidou” live performance, which was presented in the Centre Pompidou on the 19th October. The reason for this unique project was the celebration of the 40th anniversary of the museum for arts and culture in the heart of Paris. The Italian artist’s visionary world of elaborate references intertwines with the collection of the museumto create a series of special live art performances staged by Vezzoli. Each artist was wearing a costume made by Prada which references to the art work and brings it to life. In this totally emotional reinterpretation of the modern and contemporary collections of Centre Pompidou, the visitor finds himself in a new immersive experience.
Sacai Spring/Summer 2018
Chitose Abe returns to her DNA with transformable-layered silhouettes in a trompe l’oeil language. Tops and outwear were worn on the bust line with the sleeves tied as to create a seamless corset with a floating volume, held together by big sporty straps. The second look to storm in the catwalk already anticipated Abe’s vision for the season: a wind jacket in tech nylon tied over a silk light blue short dress. It’s a language Abe has been using since the start. Deconstructed skirts in denim or cotton lace patchwork-frayed paired with knits delivered a youthful look that felt confident and effortless.
Fluid floral tops with matching jackets knotted over them and long dresses in several tartan patterns patched with transparent chiffon, created a fresh ethereal and appealing atmosphere full of that cool but feminine attitude Abe’s vision is always set on. It is the intricate match of textiles and codes: camouflage cotton, trench textile, lightweight fabrics, all just in one singular dress in a play of hybrids where what seems to be a belt is in fact a soft blazer.
The colour palette was vivid: magenta, bright blue, green, yellow, all the colours that slowly became the signature of the brand. Chitose Abe, the famous protégé of Rei Kawakubo first and Junya Watanabe later, has been always mixing versatility and layered silhouettes. But this season felt extremely genuine and intuitive.
HUGO BOSS and VITRA mark the exhibition “An Eames Celebration”
On October 5th Hugo Boss and the Vitra Design Museum introduced the exhibition “An Eames Celebration” with a cocktail event held in Berlin. One part of the program was the presentation of the limited BOSS accessories collection, which was especially created for the exhibition project. It’s a limited unisex collection of 125 pieces including a tote bag, a portfolio bag, a clutch and a card case. The event took place at the historic pump station of the art collector Christian Boros at Hallesches Ufer. The guests in attendance included international and national film stars as well as socialites from Berlin’s culture and fashion scene. Hugo Boss is the lead sponsor of the retrospective Charles and Ray Eames’ oeuvre running at the Vitra Design Museum in Weil am Rhein from Septmeber the 30th to February the 25th 2018.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2018
What is more French than the Tour Eiffel? Anthony Vaccarello orchestrated a grand show in celebration of the French Maison and its historical patron Pierre Bergé who sadly passed away just three weeks ago.
He paid homage to Bergé, to Yves Saint Laurent, to their visceral love and to the revolutionary years in fashion that they both represented.
Bergé’s words to Vaccarello at the eve of his debut have already become legendary - ” You are not Yves Saint Laurent, don’t try to be Yves Saint Laurent” - the young designer could not be more Yves Saint Laurent in spirit than anyone else.
His style, irreverent, individualistic, and extremely sexy in a way that you literally wish to wear anything he designs regardless of your own style is without doubt so “Monsieur Saint Laurent”. The Monsieur Saint Laurent who managed to move – sometimes with unfavourable opinions - entire fashion crowds in the late 70s, in the 80s, and who was not afraid of fashion critique and consequently pushed boundaries.
We can find traces of Monsieur Saint Laurent’s DNA in Anthony Vaccarello’s Spring Summer 2018 collection: that gypsy shirt from the 70s, the 80s mono-shoulder dress, the feathers – but the collection remains very much about Vaccarello’s powerful identity.
As we were welcomed at the impressive location at the Fontaine de Trocadero, facing the Eiffel tower, the atmosphere culminated into an epic moment when the light spectacle of the tower served as backdrop halfway through the show.
"The Saint Laurent woman is a traveller who reaffirms her complex personality, full of a subtle tension. She is a dark angel with a sensual allure and drapes herself in black-sequined dresses, shining like the asphalt after the rain".
Vaccarello’s words are emblematic of the several elements that constellated the collection. As the designer’s summer travels took him from the Cote d’Azur to Capri, to LA we reencountered everything that fascinated him: the white Italian lace, the French flamboyant look, the West Coast leather looks.
A series of final sculptural dresses, with a scarlet red declination worn by the muse and face of the house Anja Rubik, left the audience speechless.
Museo del Novecento and Fondazione Furla present Simone Forti: To Play the Flute
Museo del Novecento and Fondazione Furla present Simone Forti: To Play the Flute – a selection of performances by this Italian-born American artist, choreographer and dancer that will fill the Museo del Novecento’s Sala Fontana with sound and movement for three days.
This marks the first event of the Furla Series #01 – Time after Time, Space after Space, a performance- centred program that will feature five events from five different artists with varying backgrounds, influences and approaches to this form of expression.
Simone Forti, has been a leading figure in postmodern dance for over fifty years and has helped shaped the landscape of contemporary dance with performances that range from minimalist movement to improvisations that also featured spoken word. To Play the Flute is a reenactment of four seminal performance moments in Forti’s career that highlights her approach to the interplay of actions and objects, and they key role assigned to sound.
Forti’s famous Dance Constructions – now part of New York’s MoMa permanent collection – served as the foundation of her solid reputation in the 60’s art world thanks to her innovative ways of experimenting with the language of movement. The performances rethink the relationship between body and object, movement and sculpture, rules and improvisation and are based on everyday movements or interactions with objects. Personal expression and improvisation always appear to be hampered by the effort required to carry out a given physical task or follow certain rules.
The first Time after Time, Space after Space event will take place on the 21st to the 23rd of September in the Sala Fontana of Milan’s Novecento Museum. The program for Time after Time, Space after Space will include four more events featuring artists from around the world, at bimonthly intervals: Alexandra Bachzetsis (November 2017), Adelita Husni-Bey (January 2018), Paulina Olowska (March 2018) and Christian Marclay (April 2018)
Zegna’s ‘Defining Moments’
For the second iteration of its ‘Defining Moments’ campaign, Ermenegildo Zegna has brought on Hollywood legend Robert De Niro and Benjamin Millepied, the French choreographer responsible for Natalie Portman’s dramatic dancing in Black Swan. The global advertising campaign will run starting August 22nd on a multitude of platforms. The ‘Defining Moments’ omni channel initiative was first introduced for the Spring/Summer 2017 season, and reflects the emotion and people-centered voice that Ermenegildo Zegna supports in its brand statement.
Both De Niro and Millepied come from different eras, countries and fields. But surprisingly, they have a lot in common: both share a love for New York, sophistication, elegance, and culture. Together with Alessandro Sartori, the Artistic Director for Ermenegildo Zegna, and film-maker Francesco Carrozzini, a dialogue is formed between De Niro and Millepied. Together they discuss their passions, values, and defining moments in their careers: an insightful and intimate conversation which covers their artistic expressions, and how it has framed their life choices.
FENDI: F IS FOR…
This season, Fendi have partnered with Los Angeles Lakers point guard Jordan Clarkson. In the campaign video, the young 25-year-old basketball prodigy, who was named to the NBA All-Rookie First Team, challenges his skills by shooting hoops at the top of the Palazzo Della Civilta? Italiana in Rome. “It’s important to be fearless on and off the court,” he says. “When you look good, play good, it gives you that sense of confidence. In basketball, it’s all about confidence. Show them who you are, before you get in the arena and express yourself. That’s what it all comes down to.”
The campaign was created and curated by Leonetta Luciano Fendi, the daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi and the fourth generation of the famous fashion family, poised to take over the helm and bring the brand deep into the new millennium. Together with Ciristiana Monfardini, Leonetta Fendi is shaping fresh content which celebrates young talent, creativity, optimism and fearless confidence: values solidly ingrained in the core of FENDI.
UGG x Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott has made a name for himself thanks to his fun-filled approach to fashion, which shuns minimalism and opts instead for boisterous, eye-catching and attention-grabbing designs. You may love them or you may hate them but one thing is for sure: they are excellent conversation starters and some may even be your guilty pleasures.
This September, the outspoken American designer and creative director of Moschino partners up with Californian brand UGG®, putting his own spin on iconic styles. Inspired by and paying homage to cool Californian spirit and vibrant Los Angeles pop culture throughout the ages, the capsule collection is comprised of eight silhouettes featuring bold flame designs, jewelled hardware and Swarovski® crystals on the sheepskin footwear that is now recognised the world over. The limited edition collection includes UGG® footwear for men, women, kids and babies.
And if the designs themselves didn’t turn heads enough, the collab’s ad campaign is sure to do so: musician Lil Yachty and model Jasmine Sanders star in the campaign shot by Marcus Mam outside Los Angeles and are seen rocking not only Scott's designs for the footwear brand but also custom pieces created exclusively to complement featured styles.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
A sea of Mimosa flowers. This tiny yellow common Mediterranean flower welcomed us in the HQ of Loewe in Paris.
Stripes – multicoloured or bitonal – fresh cotton, canvas with the signature’s leather details. Loewe Menswear Spring Summer 2018 it has all that summery allure of Spanish Riviera.
Sometimes you would see “Loewe Beach Club” or “Summer Love Loewe” on tees, maxi totes with nautical references in cord or raffia.
Jonathan Anderson choose Salvador Dalì’s hose in Catalonia as place for the seasonal lookbook shooting, the surrealist and playful atmosphere.
It's a fresh and youthful collection with a relaxed feeling compared to the previous season but keeping Anderson's signature: the little objets trouvé as key chain and charms, tapestry details, the anchor motif and spectacular details.
As Loewe Menswear collection is evolving season after season finding its audience, its market and vision, we keep seeing that exquisite naiveté and a nostalgic sense of memoire retrieving that Anderson has been working on for a while now.
Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
“Too old to die”, “Don’t be body shaming”, “Give me one more chance”
It's rare to see an icon like Yohji Yamamoto reinventing himself with such a savoir faire season after season. For Men's SS18 Yohji Yamamoto channelled his vision in a poetic exercise aiming to discover the younger generations in his team, keeping that signature we have loved long since. Spectacular ethereal velvet, leather bomber jackets in pop colours and notes scribbled all over this touching collection.
Yohji Yamamoto reflects on the afterlife, on the future of the brand once he will depart this world. It is a collection with the signature’s black palette and those powerful and visceral scribbles we have seen often in Yohji Yamamoto’s oeuvre, with Japanese calligraphy and its English counterpart next to it. Messages to the future. Sentences echoing in space look after look. As the models enter the catwalk in the Headquarters of the brand we have felt all these emotional connotations. The future of Yohji Yamamoto’s legacy, the integrity of his signature in the time soon to come. There were beautiful coloured leather jackets painted in collaboration with artist Saitoh Yusuke with portraits of Japanese actress Eiko KOIKE who will be the new face for the upcoming Yohji Yamamoto’s catalogues.But also the self portraits of artist Suzume Uchida, depicting herself as ghost.
It’s the circle of life, as seen in Buddhist philosophy, repeating itself: death, rebirth, and the continuation of life in loop.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
A specific red hue named "H", a deep, intense red spacing between burgundy and brick colour. Splashed on Hermes Spring Summer 2018, together with taupe, navy, royal blue. It's a collection full of playful graphics, sporty and smart.
Veronique Nichanian’s normcore for Hermes Menswear has been balanced on relaxed silhouettes, cotton suits, leather sandals, paper-thin knitwear in caramel on top of emerald green chinos, a white shirt with a cardigan, a spectacular crocodile bomber in black.
Nichanian’s Hermes is that power dressing far from being loud, that discreet approach with a French attitude. Wear a pair of casual trousers, a beautiful fresh pullover, a sporty anorak on top and you are ready to be off duty in a breezy summer night. And yes, with sneakers. It is the quintessential vision of Hermes, its discreet approach and the meticulous leather work.
As the versatile big tote bag and the lambskin bomber jackets with contrasting stitching hint to baseball references it gives a different angle to this historical Maison and its equestrian heritage.
Valentino Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Pierpaolo Piccioli looks at the strength of sportswear language and the fascinating realm of competition, of the authentic research of the self expression. Fresh, modern, looking at the street in a creative exercise to conquer the nowness and youthful audience.
Valentino Menswear for Spring Summer 2018 is a powerful collection channelling that empowering energy of sport exploring undiscovered territories, far away grounds in search of new moments. Anorak, track jackets, chinos, relaxed shirts, volumes and a wonderful urban appeal. This new journey of Pierpaolo Piccioli at the reign of the brand bonds this new fresh appeal to the craftsmanship, to the Atelier, and that Valentino etherealness.
A geometric graphical approach and a broad colour palette like khaki, a mint, pink, red, brown, next to black and electric blue.
VLTN, a new lettering reworking Valentino logo in black capital letters emblazoned in shirts and outwear gave new dynamics to the menswear approach of the brand It’s a relaxed collection with a strong identity.
The sporty volumes of jackets and the impressive collection of sneakers– the protagonists of the collection - with the cross stitching, embroideries, beaded details and handwork embellishments recalling a distant tribal folklore bring the Menswear ground of Valentino one step further to a new fresh sophisticated DNA.
Wood Wood Spring/Summer 2018
Wood Wood takes a trip to the Italian province of Campania for its Spring Summer 2018 collection. The Italian coastlines have provided many a designer with tons of inspiration in the past and continue to do so regularly: steep mountains rise from the Tyrrhenian Sea and rugged sceneries intermingle with country landscapes giving birth to this season’s colour palette.
While journeying through the picturesque island of Capri the designers were greeted by the incomparable carefree and comfortable way of local life. It wasn’t long before they were infatuated; could it have been the food, the wine or the late night dinners? It could have well been all of the above, elements that compose that general feeling of Mondanità that we so lack nowadays.
Vintage signs and powerful quotes from noted Italians such as Federico Fellini and Ettore Sottsass, manifest themselves in the print stories and graphics of the Spring Sumer 2018 collection that harken back to Anthony Minghella’s “The Talented Mr. Ripley”.
For Wood Wood’s Mondano collection, Italian stlye and bright colours intermingle, creating a fresh and optimistic offering that stays loyal to the brand’s attitude. Streetwear is mixed with contemporary detailing and performance styling. Formal suiting is blended with contemporary sports and streetwear codes in a bright and optimistic colour palette dominated by bright reds, yellos, deep green, orange and grounded by the addition of beige and brown.
Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2018
An air of positivity and optimism breezes through Paul Smith’s bright Spring/Summer 2018 collection for men and women. Inspired by Paul’s early visits to 70’s New York where he would source Hawaiian shirts from SoHo and his signature floral prints that these inspired later, this was a collection that professed its love to summertime.
Floral and aquatic motifs formed the core of the adornments for this season seen embroidered on tuxedo lapels or hand-painted on leather and appliqued onto tote bags. Technical outerwear developed with performance-wear in mind also play host to the marine print bringing modernity and functionality to the fore. Elsewhere a midnight beach scene on landscape jacquard appear on a bomber jacket for men and is reinterpreted in a blazer for women.
Patch-worked floral print dresses play with louche summer shirt collar shapes and Japanese carp dive across silk georgette slips. Patterned lining take on new life on a brushed cotton two-piece suit for women where tropical flowers are revere printed, giving the impression of sun-bleached fabric.
The tailored shapes for men and women are a nod to Paul Smith archive pieces from the 80’s given new life in a colour palette that spans from the soft pastel hues of cornflower blue and dusty pinks and takes us all the way to midnight tones and French navy, culminating in a crescendo of striking yellows and hot turquoise.
Marni Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
“Lost and Found” – the tile of Marni’s Spring Summer 2018 collection that leaves so much to be imagined and so much more to be discovered. Convoluted as the meaning of that phrase may be, for Marni it acted as the catalyst for a collection that preaches the enjoyment of life through self-discovery.
In his second collection as creative director for Marni, Francesco Risso offered a collection of wearable clothes with a non-conformist touch. An air of randomness characterises the collection of roomy trousers and shirts that appear to have been de- and then re-constructed, sometimes held together with the fabric swatches for a DIY allure.
Sailboat prints and Hawaiian motifs make an appearance alongside garments of a more bookish, almost nerdy, nature that stay true to the brand’s retro tones. As Risso himself put it, this season’s pieces ‘surf the typography of a city’. This is office wear on holiday, where a tie on the beach is just as relevant as sailboats on a suit and Jamaican accents paired with a dash of the 20s. Knits appear shrunken and unfinished with their misaligned stripes.
Rules appear to have been thrown out the window here as the Marni man dresses himself freely, as if he were a collector of moments who may intentionally leave items behind only to retrieve them later. Perhaps even finding himself along the way.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Summer 2018
For his debut Summer collection, Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori embarks upon an exploration of fantasies both conscious and sub-conscious while clashing innocence and sensual masculinity. In a futuristic garden outfitted with tangerine lawns in the historic courtyards of Milan’s Universita Statale, outdoor life crossed paths with the indoors for a collection permeated with fluid fabrics and delicate silhouettes uplifted by colors.
Sartori’s interplay of proportions sees classic shirts replaced by deconstructed tops in various volumes, double tank tops and scoop neck sweaters that play with active yet tailored trousers and joggers. The sporty allure of the collection is further enriched by oversized handmade pockets, hoods and the iconic Triple Stitch logos.
The collection appears almost weightless with the inclusion of fluid washed silks, Century Cashmere and pure mohair while giro inglese and mesh jacquards along with perforated and intarsia leather give hints of an ethereal substance.
Delicate and naturally-inclined the color palette features shades of walnut, deep cypress green and bleached aqua and optical white is afforded some much-welcomed color flashes.
This season’s offering remains quintessentially Zegna but looks to the future nonetheless. It’s a fresh take on the fashionable man’s wardrobe that allows for personality and individual style to seep through while remaining routed in Ermenegildo Zegna’s timeless allure.
COS is going back to where it all started by re-opening its Kurfürstendamm store in Berlin. Back in 2007, the Kurfürstendamm store was the first COS store to open on the German market and has since then evolved into eighteen stores.
This time, the Kurfürstendamm store is set over two stories and 625sqm, offering the full collection across COS womenswear, menswear and children's wear. COS wanted to create a dynamic yet timeless space and has therefore preserved the building’s original architectural features while mixing it up with modern updates. The stores interior goes in line with the brand aesthetic by combining functionality and design, creating a contrast interior of blonde wood against concrete and marble.
A brand’s advertising campaign has a very specific aim in mind –as a carefully crafted fusion of the brand’s core values and signature visual codes, this collection of references is meant to encapsulate and appeal to its archetypal customer.
As the age-old moniker attests, less is (usually) more. Adhering to long-standing traditions and stripping down to a the bare essentials may just be the key ingredients for a campaign in which the ideal customer is present at both ends of the process; they are simultaneously an inspiration and the receiver of the end product. In an age where endless attempts of innovation and out-of-the-box thinking are swarming our daily lives, a back to basics approach comes as a breath of fresh mountain air.
Enter Woolrich’s latest campaign – UTAH: a campaign that focuses and is built around characters residing in Eden, Utah. Located north of Salt Lake City and nestled in a lush valley between Snowbasin and Powder Mountain, Eden seems to exert an irresistible force that pulls lovers of the great outdoors towards it effortlessly, inviting them to partake in the vast array of activities it offers.
The campaign aims to embody the effortless equilibrium that characterises the daily lives of Eden’s residents who are all infatuated with the great outdoors in ways totally personal to each and every one of them. The importance of people and space, the balance between work and home life, the melding of style and exploration all became focal points. For Woolrich, this is about much more than stopping and smelling the roses, it’s about pausing on a long walk to hear stream, feeling the wind on your skin, watching the trees grow and basking in vibrant sunsets. Simply put, this is a celebration of nature’s simultaneously calm and invigorating energy and the endless possibilities it opens up to anyone eager to listen.
Woolrich has been at the forefront of outdoor lifestyle innovation for more than 180 years but its roots can be traced back to tradition and the oldest, continuously operating woollen mill in the US. The Woolrich Mill provided wool blankets to civil war soldiers and continues to produce them to this day. Since then, the brand has been consistent in delivering outdoors-oriented products since the 70s when people began to engage with nature in new and exciting ways. Men and women took their free time to explore natures splendour in a more recreational setting with backpacking, camping, mountaineering and cycling being just a few of their preferred activities.
From simple wool socks to its famous cold-busting parkas, the brand’s products embrace and highlight the authenticity of the outdoor lifestyle. Functionality, comfort and durability are key characteristics of Woolrich’s offerings for both men and women that are further elevated by quality materials such as wool, cotton and down. Completely in-tune with the needs of its customers, the outdoor brand now incorporates technical performance fibres like nylon and polyester in all its garments.
For Woolrich, there’s a simple constant: as long as there are people keen to venture into the wild, it will help them do so in comfort and style.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2017
The magic sets of Chanel Ready-to-Wear shows are always expected with anticipation and this season Karl Lagerfeld confirmed once again to be a visionary. A giant 35-meters-high rocket ship was waiting for us at the centre of the Grand Palais, envisioning the recent NASA news of potentially earth-size and consequentially habitable-zone planets.
It does not surprise that the humongous double C rocket was designed to lift off for more than 10 meters in the finale, leaving us completely stunned in smoke and pyrotechnic lights with Elton John’s Rocket Man in the background, Lagerfeld playfully used a whole vocabulary of space references: metallic matelassé stoles in silver and pink as space blankets, knitted headbands lifting the hair into a voluminous round cloud hinting to the space suit helmet, heavenly beaded black evening dresses to match the stardust castellated sky.
The classic Chanel skirt suits is also reinvented with matching shorts and completed with sequined tights and half gloves. It’s a fantasy as out of the best interstellar tale, and we hypnotically want to be part of it. Sparkling signature tweed in metallic silver, white electric blue and Karl’s favourite powder pink, together with the most glittery lunar boots would provide the perfect mise for our final space mission to escape this tired Mother Earth.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2017
“How enduring, how we need durability / The sky before sunrise is soaked with light / Rosy colour tints buildings, bridges, and the Seine” Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski chose Nobel Prize Czes?aw Mi?osz as backdrop for her collection. More than an homage to her ancestors, it’s the sense of surprise and anticipation every non-Parisian feels when experiencing this city that Vanhee-Cybulski aimed to hint. It’s that wandering around as in a sort of situationist walk, not sure what will resurface from its powerful heritage. The expectation and the excitement.
Hermés Fall/Winter 2017 is all that. Vanhee-Cybulski’s wish to build Hermés identity as timeless but playful, a dialogue between the contemporary fresh attitude with that effortless spirit expressed since her first collection at the French house, was clear from the start. The collection felt polyhedric and at a closer look it revealed all its beautiful craftsmanship.
A beautifully timeless wool long cape in midnight blue lined in a rosy dusty brick tone and paired with a sporty ribbed sweater and tights. A sweeping floor leather coat in pale powder pink. Classic cut pants and laced-up thigh-high boots as borrowed from man’s wardrobe. Relaxed turtleneck knits matched with statement patchwork leather outwear with shearling trim. But also 70s vibes with scarf dresses in mousseline. Vanhee-Cybulski is revising the codes of haute modern dressing for this equestrian-routed French maison.
Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017
When everyone is playing urban street-wear, Jonny Johansson used a romantic and soft approach for his Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2017.
The creative director is transforming the Scandinavian brand known for years as a denim forward label with a minimalist approach. For a while now we have seen Acne Studios feeding a new direction, a new light in terms of the brand’s identity increasingly far from the street. Acne Fall Winter 2017 is a spontaneous and playful collection with a strong sense of individuality and easiness.
Soft oversized mohair knits with polka dots, gently alluding to a sense of naiveté. Floral prints combined on a big selection of fabrics, from cotton to silk plissé. Long coats, in beautiful classic textiles, pin striped or checked, evolving into tunic-like dresses turned back-to front.
Johansson plays with the notion of tailoring almost as an ironic gesture, to vouch for the idea of an uncomplicated way of living, a different way of feeling the notion of femininity itself.
The designer’s love for accessory research once again was expressed with the beautiful statement jewellery in metal and enamel, together with the large oversized bags with wide straps and graphic knots. The asymmetric shades matching the floral deconstructed dresses and creating a further contrast to the soft organic feel of the whole collection gave the perfect youthful accent. We see a confident woman, she is intuitive and optimistic. No matter what.
Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Imagine a tribe of legendary models from the 90s, with their ageless beauty, power walk and barely-there makeup. Imagine them now walking for the most loved and respected fashion designer of our time for his 100th show.
Dries van Noten surprised everyone when the show started: all the models who walked for him, from the very beginning, were all present: Amber Valletta, Caroline de Maigret, Malgosia Bela, Kirsten Owen, Trish Goff, Kim Noorda, Guinevere Van Seenus and legendary Kristina de Coninck opening the show. Together with the more recent favourites. It was an overwhelming flow of emotions for whomever has followed and worked with this acclaimed Belgian designer since 1993.
The collection was a parade of all the prints, the cuts, the colours from past collections, the story of Dries van Noten in toto. It was an incredible archive research, as some of the print designs didn’t exist anymore. The strong sentiment of timeless style and ageless beauty was pervasive, look after look. The oversized coat, the relaxed long dresses, the denim, velvet, and beautiful fur stoles. The mix-matched colours with a lemon yellow splashing the entire collection. It was a celebration of joy, of positivity, of the essence of femininity itself.
The sound of a crowded street, the cars, the people, a dog barking accompanied the vastitude of a collection of music and movies extracts played: from Jun Miyake’s Lilies of The Valley - the musician who closely worked together with Pina Bausch, one of Dries Van Noten's dearest muses – to the late David Bowie singing Heroes in the a cappella finale. “…you, you can be mean. And I , I’ll drink all the time. Because we are lovers. That is a fact”
Gucci Fall/Winter 2017-18 The Alchemist's Garden
An air of magical curiosity filled the air as Alessandro Michele's Fall/Winter 2017 Gucci collection was presented at Milan Fashion Week. Complete with streetwear elements, fused with historical costumes and oversized floppy hat featured alongside vest tops with anarchic messaging, the collection was vibrant, exciting and oh-so Gucci.
There's a garden of plants and animals. Inhabited by signs, symbols and archetypes invoking and recalling remote worlds, blending the conscious with the unconscious as imagination forces the inertia of reality. This alchemist's garden is an anti-modern laboratory that refutes rigidity and determinism, aiming instead to recover the complexity of existence with the contradictions that permeate it.
This ubiquitous cycle is perfectly embodied in the Ouroboros, an ancient Egyptian symbol of a snake eating up its own tail. It destroys and conceives in a never ending cycle of self renewal and reflects Alessandro Michele's fascination with the role of fashion in modern society.
Make Love Not Walls
Through photographic material and a series of global actions, Diesels breaks down all barriers in communication with its #makelovenotwalls movement and tears down the mental and physical walls that separate us. In a time where hate, walls and fear seem to prevail, the brand urges us all to unite for the greater good.
“At Diesel we have a strong position against hate and more than ever we want the worlds to know that. Love and togetherness is crucial in creating a society we all want to live in, and the future we all deserve” explains Diesel Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti.
For this campaign, Formichetti collaborates with legendary artist and photographer David LaChapelle using the Wall as a symbol of separation and breaking it down to create strong stories through a simple yet powerful narrative: walls are built and the heart-shaped Diesel love tank tears them down. As a symbol of separation is reinterpreted into a symbol of unison and flowers fills the space, a celebration of freedom and love is born. Diesel is known for pushing the boundaries creatively.
From its 1995 LaChapelle campaign with two kissing sailors, to this year's anti-wall ads, it encourages us to let fear aside and focus on what brings us all together rather than what divides us. If You've got walls, Diesel's got wrecking balls!
Ermenegildo Zegna's Defining Moments
Every story worth being recounted begins with a defining moment. Ermenegildo Zegna's latest campaign focuses on just that: precious interactions, settings and conversations that trigger potentially life-changing reactions for its participants.
Robert De Niro, an actor known and revered the world over requires no introduction but it is safe to say he is no fashion ad regular. Alongside him, American Honey break-out star McCaul Lombardi whose performance generated Hollywood buzz at the end of last year. Actors of different generations, with wildly different experience levels but with an affinity that transcends age.
The campaign, shot by film-maker Francesco Carrozzi sees the actors interacting both with each other and the Zegna garments they have chose to wear and recalling their Defining Moments. De Niro's mentors, his philosophy of risk-taking and what draws him to a role are all put to the table. Lombardi appears genuinely awe-struck and profoundly respectful of his older, more experienced counterpart as he shares his experiences.
A free, real and passionate exchange that bridges a generational gap and lies at the heart of Ermenegildo Zegna's philosophy. A merging of the intensely artisanal and industrial elements that form the brand's DNA and expresses its values.
Paul Smith Menswear Fall/Winter 2017
Paul Smith is one of the few brands that gives you the feeling of security, of home and the certainty of effortless style.
With its timeless tailoring, the classic yet fun twistS in textiles and cuts, for his Fall/Winter 2017 Sir Paul Smith presented Menswear and Womenswear together. It was a storm of several declinations of what it could be Paul Smith now, and how any person, especially young, could sport it. Lush checked classic English fabrics, for men and women, silk dresses both in solid colours and printed with hundreds of feathers as taken from a XIX century treatise on naturalia.
Paul Smith with his masterly style showed us how we can wear a shearling short jacket over a suit. Or how a woman can sport a deep blue velvet suit and look so sexy. Coral, blue, green, khaki, grey: a colourful palette true to the brand’s signature identity. We particularly loved the relaxed blazer suits – womens’ were long, below the hips - and the coats over them, for him and her, a full dive into that Smith heritage of effortless elegance.
JUUN.J Fall/Winter 2017
As the models stormed inside Universite Rene Decartes’s suggestive neoclassic space, and the fluid body of Juun J’s work floated around, we caught the power of history. The history of this brand evolved within the last ten years into an acclaimed fashion forward entity. for this celebratory collection Juun J - in name of a decade spent imagining the future of his eponymous label - choose the emblematic subtitle: “Archive”.
Oversized long sweaters, heavy, massive, almost suffocating in all their fierce presence. The architectural outwear, the brand's signature trench coat and the MA1 bomber jacket. All the iconic pieces of Juun J’s past collections, in a splendid parade, as an ode to this Korean designer who has influenced the wardrobe of boys and girls in recent years. The girl who has been wearing Juun J forever and who got a special place in the future course: the new Juun J will have from now on feature a Womenswear collection.
And so the oversized cargo pants transformed into high waist long skirts with maxi pockets on the hips and slits on both sides which will be a hot piece for next season. Khaki, military green, black, white and pin-striped blue: the palette focused on the brand’s favoured colours. The large parachute hooded outwear with a myriad of swinging straps were certainly the protagonists, underlined in the closing act when all the possible declinations marched in, as if to suggest the impetuous movement and space of Juun J in the upcoming decade.
SANKUANZ Fall/winter 2017: the chemistry collection
Standing for the reversal of an established system and breaking away from political correctness, that is what epitomises the Sankuanz Fall/Winter 2017 collection that explores space and chemistry.
Designer Shangguan Zhe's latest collection holds man's relationship with space and chemistry at its core, proposing garments that overlap with the idea of consuetude. Military uniforms with raw edges, primitive top-stitched suits and parkas, jumpsuits with industrial strap and bio-chemical protections, just a few examples of Zhe's research-based project. Zhe, indeed, created his own textiles mixing industrial materials and aramid fibers, usually used for spacesuits to give birth to his undoubtedly contemporary and updated vision.
Silhouettes are completed with accessories like visored bucket hats, pop military backpacks and high-top sock sneakers in a color palette that is everything but boring.
Plein Sport Fall/Winter 2017
Sport and fitness are the latest addiction of modern society and that's a fact. It's not all about keeping fit anymore, it's a lifestyle. Designers have also caught the athleisure bug and among them is Phillip Plein who delivered a Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to sportswear during this year's Milan Fashion Week.
On a runway made over to resemble a racetrack, models, boxers and workout fanatics presented the first ever Plein Sport line. The collection features sweatshirts, puffer gilets and bombers, among many other fitness apparel favourites, fusing cutting-edge technology with luxurious materials.
Innovation is Philipp Plein's mantra and a key word for his collection that also offered sleeve pockets for iPhones and pioneered lightweight footwear and anti-sweat fabrics.
Take a walk on the wild side with Christian Dada’s “Blue” collection
In the name of “Blue”, Christian Dada's latest collection is a hymn to Japanese color traditions. Blue evokes feelings of rebellion, frustration, incomprehension that surround troubled youth.
Reaching out to our inner adolescent, the collection revolves around the concept of deconstruction that is obtained with sophisticated methods of shaping and layering. Mixing Eastern and Dadaist aesthetics, designer Masanori Morikawa plays with classic tailored jackets worn like kimonos wrapped around T-shirts and striped pajamas. Trench coats morph into tunics and army bombers and denim jackets are ripped into and skinned to expose their bone structure.
Tartan motifs and schoolboy sheepskin jackets collectively pay homage to College fashion. With slogans like “I Don't Like Drugs but Drugs Like Me” or “Too Fast to Live Too Young to Die” making appearances throughout the line, Morikawa's collection echoes messages from modern society.
Playing with double entendres is a trademark of the Dadaist mood board that definitely urges one to take a walk on the wild side.
Out Of The Blue comes Peuterey
Peuterey wraps its timeless designs into the most diverse shades of blue for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection.
In Out of the Blue, a name that perfectly encapsulates the collection's essence, Italian elegance meets functionality, conceiving a wide range of models that suit our everyday life perfectly, just like their key-color does.
Whether it's trench coats, leatherjackets or blazers – creative director Federico Curradi, has definitely set a new trend for this Spring/ Summer season.
Bottega Veneta and SCoP: when fashion supports art
Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta’s creative director, has never hid his passion for art, making it a proper flagship of the Venetian brand’s attitude. Bottega Veneta showed for the first time its strong commitment to art and culture in 2001, when Maier introduced the “Art of Collaboration”: an ongoing project which invites photographers and visual artists in order to reflect brand’s aesthetic inside its campaigns.
This year the brand confirms its ever-lasting addiction to art, partnering with the Shanghai Centre of Photography in order to support four key international exhibitions hold at the most prestigious photography institute in China. SCoP is indeed considered worldwide the city’s very first place entirely dedicated to photography showcasing its best and diverse genres.
“Made in Germany: German photography from the 19th century to today” will be the first exhibition supported by Bottega Veneta. The projects will comprises an unparalleled selection of iconic masterpieces that together with contemporary examples will give an up-to-date and fresh touch to the entire exhibition.
The exhibition will run until April 2nd 2017
Colette x UNDEFETEAD: the hypes’ sneaker exchange
The hype around sneakers has never been so present. Parisian it store Colette, one of Europe's biggest go-to destinations for street-wear designer apparel has partnered with LA-based label UNDEFEATED for the much-anticipate “Sneaker Exchange”. Included in the exchange are no less than 84 brands like Bodega, END, Kith and Slam Jam just to name a few.
Two limited edition and revamped Adidas sneakers to be launched during Paris Fashion Week will be part of this January's exchange. The redesigned editions of iconic models, the Campus 80 and EQT Support. The Campus 80 is bright, in white leather with a royal blue heel while the EQT Support's darker influences are manifested through its deep navy blue shades.
Both models are playing with the concept of opposites, pairing and simultaneously contrasting influences, ideas and cultural currencies, personifying perfectly the concept of the exchange.
VERSACE Spring/Summer 2017: enjoy the ride
Savagery and freedom have always been messages carried by Versace that since its birth thanks to its innovative ways of conceiving fashion has endlessly imposed its creative dynamism among the highest fashion brands.
From attitudes to backgrounds, the Spring/Summer 2017 campaign shot by Bruce Weber is the proper representation of what Versace has always meant in the haute couture. Conceived by artistic director Donatella Versace, the freedom and dynamism of summer and the active mood are perfectly encapsulated in these shoots. Models Edie Campbell, Anna Ewers, Mitchell Slaggert and Jake Lahrman, found themselves in the Kentucky countryside surrounded by horses, perfect symbols of this “freedom” collection.
Freedom of choice, freedom of expression and freedom of speech, These are the messages carried by this collection and Versace in general, because as Bruce Weber said: “it’s always interesting that fashion can carry messages in a subtle way and make people think about their own lives and how they can make it better.”
Acne Studios Resort 2017 collection’s film is now out, and it’s all about Hype Fever
Highlighted shades, slow motion pictures and pop vibes merge together to give birth to the new Resort 2017 collections film by Acne Studios.
Inspired by musical counter culture, free and fluid silhouettes mixed and matched with generous draping, patterned knitwear and elongated evening wear. Sneak peeks from the runway are given together with backstage scenes to present a collection that is nothing but common.
Resort 2017 is all about shapes and prints that are achieved through a variety of dyeing techniques from tie-dyeing to oil-dyeing, in order to create a look that is both soft and romantic without ever forgetting a taste of sane hippie-rock attitude.
Levi’s and JUGEND GEGEN AIDS: T-shirts with a good cause
On world’s AIDS day Levi’s decided not to stay in the corner, taking part together with the JUGEND GEGEN AIDS association to a special night that merged fashion, music and sexual education.
In order to make a difference and let young people feel close to the cause, the denim brand organized the “Night of Life” in association with DJs and starred chefs in order to turn a pool party at the Hamburg East Hotel into something unforgettable.
The ‘STOP AIDS’ sign was shown on black and white limited edition Levi’s T-shirts during the party, whose proceeds will go to the benefit association JGA that since years fight to create awareness around AIDS.
“Do what you want. Do it with love, respect and condoms”
A private Giorgio Armani trunk show hold at Giorgio Armani boutique in London inaugurates the opening of Giorgio Armani and Armani Casa boutiques in prestigious Sloane Street, London.
The renovated space of 1000 square meters that hosts the two adjacent boutiques features 5 display windows that introduce to a totally new concept, which was curated by Giorgio Armani and his team of architects.
Mirroring the refined sense of distinctive, minimal elegance characteristic of the Maison, the boutiques focus on the extensive use of space. As well, a light and clean distribution of lights and linear shapes meticulously highlights the balance between rigour and refined luxury.
To best celebrate the event, the trunk show has been followed by “Giorgio’s” pop-up club at Tramp Nightclub, which for the first time bring the private members night out of the Armani/Privet nightclub in Milan, including De La Soul’s live performances and DJ Harvey DJ set.
FEIT founder Tull Price and British design duo Faye and Erica Toogood team up for the second time to launch the unisex Suede Artist Shoe and Suede Artist Boot, as a pure tribute to craftmanship.
The two versions readapt the design from an original desert boot and are made by hand from one-piece upper, which is consequently sewn by hand to the midsole.
With their innovative approach to sustainable solutions, the two models feature a biodegradable and non-irritant vegetable-tanned suede, which allows them to get better with age. As well, the water-based glue used to cement the midsole and the outsole and the shoes can be resoled thanks to the Goodyear construction process.
When looking at the clean design and solid structure of these two clever proposals, it is clear that this project is not only a challenge to the industrial way of thinking, rather it is a consistent demonstration of how the future of fashion is already present.
The Suede Artist Shoe and Suede Artist Boot will be available online and at FEIT New York and Toogood London stores from 21st March 2018.
Japanese brand Uniqlo has announced the launch of their very first resort collection, released in collaboration of iconic Tomas Maier. Thought as a versatile escape from everyday life, the new series for both men and women will combine the two houses’ aesthetics, with a key focus on confort and wide use of innovative and high quality materials, such as AIRism fabric, extra-fine cotton and 100% cashmere for the knitwear. The womenswear includes tops, dresses, a polo-shirt and a stylish swimwear piece that can be used as loungewear too. The mens’ proposals focus on jackets, t-shirts, polo shirts and shorts that function as swimming trunks, unveiling a color range of navy blue, black and khaki hues. Starting from Thursday the 17th of May the LifeWear series will be available online and in 19 stores worldwide, celebrating the flexible, relaxed freedom of modern elegance.
Berlin 80s underground scene is the leading mood for Clare Weight Keller at Givenchy, whose collection takes inspiration from cult movies such as The Hunger and the documentary B Movie: Lost and Sound in West-Berlin, 1979-1989. Several faux furs, leather jackets and psychedelic prints dominate the collection, which unveils asymmetrical cuts and laboured fabrics elaborating an effectively sophisticated youth couture.
In Alexander McQueen’s show, models of various ages tell a new narrative for Sarah Burton. As when caterpillar become butterflies, similarly this collection speaks of a powerful metamorphosis. The designer’s tailoring heritage reaches the next level, presenting precious details such as insect and wing decorations on transparent dresses. Structured shoulders and bustiers are in balance with more rounded, almost romantic ruffles, as well as subtle silk fringing on a opulent evening dress enhance the idea of a fluid movement and distinctive femininity.
Literally overwhelmed by natural world, Karl Lagerfeld unveils a collection in-between Eighties moods and forest references. On the one hand multicolor or black and white leaves prints, oxidised gold leather details, iconic tweed looks and vintage outlines would suggest a classy yet totally wearable proposal. On the other hand there is an interesting presence of flowing billow-sleeves over ultra lean coats or on elegant evening dresses in lace, which adding romantic feel to the overall collection.
Regardless of the Sixties references of the collection, Miu Miu establish a “kind of alphabetical system, a language for expressing and defining oneself”. With Elle Flanning opening and closing the show, Miuccia Prada presents several versions of vintage oversized jackets and coats, mohair sweaters, mini-skirts, tweeds and iconic bobby socks, which recall the girlish brand’s youthful signature alternating flaming and playful pastel colors.
Women and their right are more and more at the centre of social debate. Therefore interpreting femininity is the main theme at Louis Vuitton for Fall 2018. With a collection that somehow renovate classic elements of 19th century military uniforms and turn them into skirt-suits, shearling jackets and peplum tops, Nicolas Ghesquiere’s contemporary approach to fashion unveils a very sophisticated notion of elegance.
On the wave of intelligent feminism, Max Mara centres on how modern women perceive their freedom. If in the 80s structural elements from the male wardrobe would have symbolised the status of achieved empowerment, nowadays the feeling is different. Collaborating with French artist François Berthoud for sweaters and T-shirts, the range includes skinny pants and pencil skirts, while for the outerwear a teddy bear coat featuring a Western Fringe, leopard printed coats and the iconic camel coat featuring a classic cut that design the outlines of a spontaneous, comfortable self-expression.
On the other way around, Sportmax is a layered conjunction of technical materials and urban outlines, determined by bright colored puffers and and down vests. The skirts are embellished with zippers, while the dresses’ flowing shapes enhance the sporty feel the athletic silhouettes.
Inspired by the intriguing Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct (1992), for Paul Surridge fashion is a matter of sensuality. Without abandoning Roberto Cavalli historical trademarks, the collection combines together womenswear and menswear, highlighting opulent looks featuring multicolor animalier prints, leather shirts, aviator jackets, flowing maxi dresses best enhanced by ochre, turquoise and amethyst colors.
Strong, loud, confident. The charming women of Versace bring back all the energetic enthusiasm of glamorous eighties. With a powerful visual impact and honouring the brand tradition as well as the mixing of different cultures and subcultures, the proposals feature total looks and bold logos, which are in turn underlined by architectural shoulders, multi-layered kilts in contrasting full yellow and blue, corsets and mini-skirts.
With Paul Andrew taking the reins of the women’s brand, Ferragamo presents nothing but a very a sophisticated collection focusing on classicism. Symmetrical cuts are in total harmony with fluid fabrics in monochromatic hues that softly intensify the feel of a sober elegance over foulard and long dresses. Moreover, suede trenches come in full green or red hues highlights the brand’s leather heritage in balance with the immediateness of contemporary fashion.
Working on the coexistence of different cultures, Giorgio Armani proposals are quite a number. Total looks in black velvet take central stages, mostly embellished with crystals, watercolor florals that do not compromise the brand’s smooth elegance, yet transform the precious fabrics in garments wearable any time of the day.
With a similar approach, Emporio Armani creates a strong alliance between the richness of their bright fabrics and the urban and sporty language of the label. Hereafter, everything seems a contemporarily wise update, which focuses on forms and proportions. Several shades of green and watery colors set the mood of the collection, revealing long dark coats, fur and structured tailored jackets.
Casacau: A Homelike Stay In the Eternal City of Rome
In a 17th century Roman residential building near the Fontana di Trevi, the six unique and luxurious apartments of Casacau have been integrated. Situated in the heart of the eternal city, the historical charm of the house intertwines perfectly with contemporary design. This getaway offers all comforts and services one might expect in the most exclusive hotels in Rome, but with the added touch of a home-like-feeling and more privacy. Each apartement has a different aesthetic atmosphere mixed with its own personality. Vintage-furnishings from the 50s, 60s and 70s blend in with modern comfort and convenience. Some of the rooms are equipped with a Turkish bathroom and one even offers a sauna for that added wellness value. All rooms come complete with a dining space and an open supplied kitchen. Two rooms also feature a balcony, with a view either on the street or the patio.
The hotel is part of the TakeMeRome project by Pino Cau, who has been working in hospitality for thirty years. Aiming to offer guests a carefree stay in Rome, TakeMeRome takes care of all details of their stay. Following this philosophy, Casacau offers its guests the possibility to order fresh groceries if they’re feeling up to the task of cooking. If not, the restaurants Stazione di Posta and EIT can deliver to all rooms upon request. What’s more, at Casacau, there will always be someone available to fullfil guests’ special wishes. The philosphy behind Casacau is to provide a hideaway that makes it easy to discover Rome’s hidden gems while making one feel like staying at a friend’s place, because human relations are seen as the real luxury.
For Woolrich, Spring 2018 is a full immersion in versatility.
The Pacific Jacket has been specifically studied to be the ideal high-perfomancewear for outdoor activities.
Made of breathable and water repellent technical fabrics, the jacket features an adjustable hood, waterproof zippers closing the pockets and ribbed cuffs over long sleeves that exhibit a printed logo on the arm.
Light and protective, this jacket has been conceived thinking of the diverse weather conditions as well as keeping strong the link between function and contemporary design.
A look back at the structured shapes of the eighties enhanced by black leather head-band accessories, Tom Ford delivered a roaring, eccentric spirit that highlights shimmering animalier prints over constructed suits and tight mini-dresses, reinforcing the idea of eccentric glamour.
With his extreme love for excess, Philipp Plein presented a space-odyssey runway, catapulting us in an ultra-artificial world dominated by robots, fake snow and floating spaceships. Skin-tight catsuits, sported by Irina Shayk, and bodysuits in latex or adorned with crystals strongly underlining the silhouettes, while logo straps appear on oversized puffers. The collection features metallic crop tops and plastic coats true to Plein's subversive spirit.
Victoria Beckham’s work has always been an aesthetic devoted to femininity. For ten years now, the vision is still the same, adding a modernist, utilitarian feel to the collection presented last Sunday at James Burden Maison in Manhattan. Dresses in felted wool with sculptural silhouettes feature full-length back zips. The collection includes also khaki trousers and structured coats that add a touch of rigorous military mood. By contrast, long skirts in earthy tones are enriched with silk pleats paired with oversized bags enhancing the feel of a relaxed high-end allure.
Inspired by Berlin's beats of Barghain and fascinated by the cult book-turned-movie Christiane F. – Wir Kinder vom Banhof Zoo, Raf Simons unveils a youthful and underground collection. With graphic prints on T-shirts featuring actors Thomas Haustein and Natja Brunkhorst (main characters of the movie), sleeveless hoodies controversially embellished with “DRUGS” caption (which actually refer to Cookie Mueller and Glenn O’Brian) and eventually latex gloves, Simons cleverly portrays the club scene, offering an exclusive high-end rave-wear.
Italian house Bottega Veneta unveils their opulent collection by German designer Tomas Maier, with a tender homage to New York City. Silk pyjamas, multi-chromatic dresses and geometric design tell us something about the architectural landscape of the City and its multicultural, immersive aesthetics.
Last 27th January, Dior has inaugurated a new boutique located in Kurfürstendamm 56, one of the most well known avenues in Berlin.
The store, which hosts both menswear and womenswear collections, jewelry and perfumes, has been decorated by designer Stefan Leo with furniture in recycled-metal that create a tromp-l’oeil effect. The LB bubble artwork by abstract artist Jan Kalab adds a contemporary tone to the gentle atmosphere, softly in balance with the Versailles Parquet floor, that instead recalls Christian Dior passion for 18th century aesthetics.
There are many tales surrounding the legend of Shuten Doji, one of strongest demons in ancient Japan folklore, who kidnapped young noble women to devour them at night. It is narrated that at the end of the X century the legendary samurai Minamoto no Yorimitsu and his warriors successfully killed the demon on the Mount Ooe in Kyoto prefecture.
It is not by chance that the painting by Utagawa Yoshitsuya representing these events was imprinted on Yohji Yamamoto’s invite envelope where on its inside sat a small thin sheet of paper. In black colour.
The collection seemed a deep thought on our times, on the recurring human cruelty, on the lack of compassion and values.
There are always many interpretations to Yohji Yamamoto’s poetic and at times ironic view on themes. Even the tight seating felt a key element to read the collection. The urge to be on our toes, to feel the tension, while the models slowly walked in the space of Rue Saint Martin – headquarters of the brand – on the sound of Jiro Animoto’s voice and guitar.
Skirts, tunics, blazers and coats layered to create splendid slouchy ensembles recalling a samurai robe, tightened on the waist by leather belts. In few looks the overcoat was worn on one sleeve underling the flawless fluid tailoring of Yamamoto.
The collection continued with knitwear revealing stitching as a gesture of keeping together lacerated flesh during a battle. Again the poetic of the imperfect, of the ruined.
Shades of blue, grey and deep red looks for deconstructed coats. A photo of Yohji Yamamoto himself was featured on one of them with small glittery blue tear embroidered along one of his eyes. In the final series of monastic black silhouettes John Lennon ‘s “Imagine” pinned a crescendo of emotions in a collection beautifully true to the poetic of this unwavering Japanese master.
An updated sleek suiting with an hourglass waist, prominent shoulders and cropped flare trousers.
Sarah Burton knows exactly what is one of the main strength at McQueen and never fail to update new elements season after season.
Fall Winter 2018 presented pinstripe and English check suits with overcoats in black cashmere and paisley embroidered camel. Floating kite-like trench coats were styled tightened around the waist. A dialogue between a modern take on traditional tailoring and a more street-like and utilitarian story.
It’s Alexander McQueen heritage to explore contrasting elements.
The collection continued with parkas and bombers in leather with what looked like a double inlay but at a closer glance revealed to be an embellishment on its zipped closure. The play of double progresses when a cashmere lined leather horse blanket as cape with shearling collar is paired with leather pants.
Austere precision is faced with opulent and romantic elements: beautiful hand painted English roses adorn silk suits and jet beading seen in the previous season embellish silk dressing gowns and evening blazers with matching track pants. All paired with white trainers with moulded soles.
Black, burgundy, silver, khaki and a splash of what the show notes called London fire engine red. Like the red lights at the show location, with all its English underground connotation set the mood for an increasingly powerful menswear identity at Alexander McQueen.
For five months, at 231 Rue Saint Honore, Marni Market settles in Paris. The firm’s playful universe is revealed through an exhibition where visitors can explore and interact within Marni's colorful world and purchase special items during three different periods.
In January 2018, Marni Visitor Market keeps the traditional Christmas charitable donation —addressing the profits to Piccolo Principe Association for helping children in difficulty within the province of Milan — with the sale of funny marionettes, half toy and half sculpture, made of painted wood and resin.
From the 1st of February until the 12th of April, Marni Playful Market will turn in an interactive space, where visitors can play freely within the elements showcased in the area.
The last period, from the 13th of April until the 18th of May, Marni House Market will be dedicated the exposition of Colombia hand-made items, celebrating creativity and workmanship.
“Everyone has a different story… and everyone wears Emporio Armani”. For the launch of its Spring/Summer 2018 campaign, Emporio Armani decided to feature men and women of different ages and coming from all over the world, all selected trough street casting.
Shot in Milan by Photographers Ben Weller, Mark Peckmezian and Pawel Pysz, the campaign comes with a serie of pictures portraying the lucky ones, who bring a personal and original interpretation to Emporio Armani’s exclusive style, as the merging outcome of individual attitude and group’s identity.
With their charismatic attitude and ironic descriptions, the shots intensify the spontaneous freshness of the brand’s spirit and put emphasis on the authentic diversity that makes people unique.
This is an incredible era of change. The extraordinary enhancements that tecnology is introducing in the job industry are simplifying the way we approach daily chanllenges and creating new exciting opportunities for a new generation of creative minds.
Being aware of this overwhelming revolution, Fendi Men's SS18 ad campaign establishes the features of the businessmen of today, who are costantly floating between high professionalism and flawless humour.
Shot in Rome’s brand headquarter and on the beach of Gaeta, a treasure of Lazio Region, the campaign stars a young Dylan Fender wearing a neutral palette made of casual yet classic outfits. The collection introduces us to the new vocabulary of menswear and combines refined tailoring with sportswear and streetwear.
The vibe of creative freshness and entrepeuneurial spirit is perfectly commmunicated by the new Mini Peekaboo Fit briefcase, vivaciously erniched by illustrations by guest artist Sue Tilley. “Be open minded and use creativity”. In Silvia Venturini Fendi’s statement lies the whole essence of the collection, and we ebrace her captivating enthusiasm towards 2018.
Dior Lady Art Bag #2
Last year Dior invited a handful of British and American artists to reimagine the classic Lady Dior Bag for a limited edition. As the project was a great success, it is back now, featuring another ten artists from all over the world of different ages and origins.
Giving “carte blanche” to the artists, they could freely transfer their creativity into Dior’s leatherworking language. Everything, from the fabric, to the charms, size, color, jewelry, handles and stitching could be adjusted by them.
The artists Friedrich Kunath, Namsa Leuba, Spencer Sweeney and Lee Bul created the new versions of the Lady Dior Art Bag. On Dior’s website, one can watch a series of videos highlighting their individual artistic identities and inspirations.
G-Star RAW Research III BY Aitor Throup
In the G-Star RAW innovation lab, which is led by the British designer, artist and creative director Aitor Throup, denim is being deconstructed to its purest form. The third collection of the RAW Research for men and very first for women, presents new denim constructions, silhouettes and shapes.
The collection features ten pieces in undyed and unwashed calico denim and challenges the conventional perception of the popular fabric. The same collection goes through a process of hand dyeing, where the indigo is added to the raw garments, resulting in an organically irregular visual effect. The G-Star innovation lab separates, analyzes and utilizes the core elements of denim in experimental ways.
RAW Research is known for launching a new 3D denim construction each season. This time, it is the Spiraq jean. Crafted from a single piece of denim, that is wrapped around the leg, the model is carefully molded to provide the perfect fit.
The third RAW Research collection also represents Throup’s first ever work of womenswear. Reflecting the overall design pilosophy of RAW Research III, the pieces are blending minimalism and functionality without compromising femininity. For both the men’s and women’s collection the in-house laboratory of G-Star follows the same untreated approach, while pushing the boundaries of product design through an explorative process.
The G-Star RAW Research III collection wil be available in selected concept stores from the 15th of December.
A Special Hideaway In the Historic Heart of Rome
In the middle of baroque Roman buildings, emanating the extraordinary presence of history, the exquisite private residence and boutique hotel Le Quattro Dame is located in a traditional palazzo between Piazza Venezia and Largo di Torre Argentina. The name of the residence and its philosophical inspiration comes from the four famous profile paintings, Portrait of a Woman, by Florentine renaissance artist Piero del Pollaiuolo, displayed throughout a few of the rooms. Entering the builiding, one has the choice to either walk up an impressive marble staircase that leads to the second floor, or enter a nostalgic elevator that dates back to the beginning of the 20th century. Muted earthy tones at the reception area have a soothing effect on the visitor, and lounge sofas serving an inviting space to sit and unwind. A gallery of renaissance artworks by selected artists such as Bronzino, Raffaello and Lorenzo Lotto adorn the walls, instilling the space with an independent and authentic vibe. Classical features such as high ceilings, wooden floors and wide windows are fused with modern but timeless interior design.
Only minutes from the Pantheon, Le Quattro Dame houses six different styles of rooms: three deluxe rooms, two junior suites, and a more secluded apartment. All of them are eclectically furnished and decorated in a chic, sophisticated Italian style. From the Sand Suite’s balcony, one can see the spot where Julius Caesar likely passed away. Viabuzzuno and Kartel lamps light up the rooms, Dedar and Sahco provide wooden flooring and curtains for a homey feel, while cosy Meridiani and Flou beds tempt you to lie in for longer. The bathrooms are furnished with glass doors, resin floors and steel accessories by Agape and Gessi. As Le Quattro Dame provides more of a self-contained apartment stay than a traditional hotel, all rooms are equipped with a kitchenette, Nespresso machine, kettle, minibar, glassware and Villeroy & Boch china.
During the stay, the manager Dori is reachable by phone, and mulitilingual staff members are available daily from 8.30 am to 6.30pm for inquiries about sightseeing, museum visits, tansfers, car hires, table reservations and everything else. Walking in and out of this typical Italian residence, feeling as if it were your own home, makes one blend in with the locals immediately. Le Quattro Dame is the ideal choice when looking for a high quality luxury hideaway with a romantic and stylish twist in the centre of beautiful Rome.
Versace Reopens Boutique in Frankfurt
When entering the newly designed and reopened Versace boutique in Frankfurt, one is greeted by a blend of traditional Italian architectural values and the incomparable dynamism and energy of Versace. Fior di bosco marble, onyx and brass elements create an ambience with a contemporary twist and emphasise the mood of supreme luxury. The boutique is a meeting point between the past and the future. The store is a unique and exclusive area of 345 square meters, which is perfect to present the Versace prêt-à-porter collections and accessories for men and women. According to Donnatella Versace, the interior design pays tribute to Italy’s cultural heritage and represents the spirit of the brand.
Paris By Night
With its new capsule collection, Highlight, the french brand Sandro presents an evening wardrobe with Parisian flair just in time for the party season. The 15 pieces are inspired by different decades of party wardrobe, offering the ideal outfit for each taste and occasion. Shades of black, silver and white, geometric shapes and volumes meet asymmetries. Pleats and frills bring twists to a feminine silhouette. The looks are formal but have the typical oh-so Parisian casual edge to them. The lustrous moiré of a draped bustier is combined with a full-circle skirt, silvery sequins can be found on a shawl-collar smoking jacket, worn over a short skirt in draped lurex and a white top with gigot sleeves contrasts with the deep black of a skirt enhanced with an asymmetric frill. Details of lace and brocade capture the final glow of Paris at dusk. The Sandro Highlight collection knows how to play with the dreams and desires of a starry night and channel chic femininity.
Hogan Christmas Special Edition: Glam It Up!
To accompany the upcoming festive and joyous mood before and after Christmas with style and grace, Italian shoe brand Hogan releases a special collection. The 2017 Christmas Edition can’t be beaten in glamour and festiveness. The brand’s maxiplatform H222 signature sneakers have been revisited and are proposed in two bright versions. The first one is a black patent leather edition with allover golden motifs and a laminated sole and the second comes in black suede with silver decorations and a metallic platform. A bright-touch clutch bag completes the Hogan XMAS Capsule Collection making it a perfect match for the shoes. These pieces are a secure entry on this year’s wish list!
The Lady Dior Art Bag
The iconic Lady Dior bag was born in Dior’s workshops in 1995 and made famous in 1996 when Princess Diana was showing her admiration for it on a visit to Paris. This instantly recognizable bag carries the house’s inimitable style but is also open to interpretation and artistic reinvention. Last year, the maison invited a handful of British and American artists to reimagine the accessory with a limited edition. After the big success of this project on the runway, Dior decided to make it even more diverse and creative by inviting ten artists from around the world, of different ages and backgrounds. The fashion house gave “carte blanche” to the artists to transfer their creativity into Dior’s leatherworking language. Everything, from the bag’s fabric, to its charms, size, color, jewellry, handles and stitching were all adjusted to the artist’s specifications. The outcome is a great collection of exceptional bags, which makes it hard to choose only one Lady Dior Art Bag.
The Handmade Derby by Sandro Homme
The french brand Sandro combines a focus on the future with the exploration of its past heritage. For the Sandro Homme shoes winter collection 2017, Ilan Cherite has revisited the iconic laced derby and added some character and class. These quirky shoes are a product of traditional savoir-faire, entirely hand made in England. To make it durable, they are constructed with Goodyear stitching. The first seam binds the upper, the inner sole and the welt. A second seam binds the welt to the outer sole, which makes it easily to replace. The inner sole out of natural cork fits to the shape of the foot and provides comfort like a tailor-made model. The timeless derby comes in box-calf black leather, which enhances the classic. This classy english shoe style is convincing with its versatility and can be worn with a city suit or less formal attire. In each pair Sandro expresses its aspirations and values, which are elegance, quality, discreet luxury and refinement. These high-end shoes are also intentionally affordable, which makes it easier to achieve that desireable dandy look.
Chanel Spring/Summer 2018
This season we all encountered a surprise upon our arrival at the Grand Palais: an humongous waterfall along a three story high rock wall, with tropical plants and a wooden bridge that appeared to be taken out of a 90s adventure blockbuster movie.
This time, Karl Lagerfeld decided not to disclose the theme in the invitation card, adding to the build and usual anticipation that we all feel each season.
Water gently falling from the rocks of Etienne Russo’s Villa Eugenie, built in the last two weeks, welcomed the guests entering the venue. The models stormed in the water dramatically increasing its course, stridently taking over the scene.
Drops of water dancing in the space played with the shining textures and transparencies of this season’s offering. The collection was particularly fresh and fluid with PVC raincoats, hats, capes, and boots intrinsically matched and layered over fringed tweed often embellished with lurex threads.
Karl Lagerfeld delivered an extraordinarily varied collection where cropped tops, oversized jackets, miniskirts, over-the-knees boots and half gloves created a vortex of colours and textures. There were long floating dresses in printed chiffon in several shades of blue mimicking the water’s fluid course, striped denim skirts with PVC fringed underskirts, culottes pants made of patent leather shorts elongated in tweed. Just like in every Chanel show, the atmosphere was mesmerizing but this season the sun shining inside the Grand Palais over the water felt like a fairytale, one to be remembered.
Desert Winds: Dior Cruise Collection 2018
Artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri never fails in making her collections a feminist statement. For Dior’s cruise collection 2018 she took inspiration from the desert and the unique work of the American artist Georgia O’Keefe. Chiuri describes her as a modern shaman, who painted the sands of New Mexico with such a majestic and solemn look. Her paintings are illustrating the search for the inner self and diffuse a soft but strong feminine identity, which is strongly connected to nature. Maria Grazia Chiuri came across O’Keefe on her quest for inspiration, when she became interested in the desert. For the collection’s campaign, the actress and muse Jennifer Lawrence was phtographed by Brigitte Lacombe, an ongoing collaborator of the house. The series of images was created in a setting of organic outlines and a gentle atmosphere. A laid-back wanderlust mood and modern western spirit is transported through the photographs, which are embodieing the singular femininity of the Dior cruise collection 2018.
Lacoste Spring/Summer 2018
Lacoste celebrates its 85th anniversary with a collection full of humour and new declinations of their iconic polo shirt. Creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista draws inspiration from classic French cinema from the mid 90s with two particular titles : the controversial Kassovits’s “La Haine” and Eric Rohmer’s “Conte d’été” exploring their portrayals of youth and the clashing realities between these two very different movies.
Oliveira Baptista questions the themes of formal and informal, of classic and sportswear in a play between contradiction elements and codes. If for women the polo shirt becomes an off the shoulder mini dress that wraps around the body, for men it appears oversized worn over denim.
The 90s reappear in the windbreakers, pea jackets and tracksuits reminiscent of the youth of that time, now released in high-tech versions. This is a collection where the beauty is in the cuts and its new sensuality and where the sportswear pieces made from openwork mesh nylon create a new sensuality. A celebration of the heritage of the brand, the iconic colours red 240, navy 166, white 001 and green 132 reissued together with pastels of the 80s, with the crocodile logo inhabiting the buttons of a piped cardigan or “climbing” over the shoulders of a dress.
A playful approach full of Lacoste’s history and its contemporary innovation.
Welcome to G-Star Mat
In the presence of esteemed guests from the realms of fashion, music and cinema, Pharrell Williams toasted the launch of the G-Star Elwood X25 at G-Star Mat, a space that embodies creativity and self-expression.
The classic G-Star Elwood was reimagined in 25 bright and beautiful prints that meld motifs from the natural world – from poison dart frogs and butterfly fish to leopards and whale sharks – with renderings that pay homage to cultural diversity and include ornate Indian paisley prints and Japanese kimono embroidery.
Like the prints, the space itself was also designed to champion creativity by way of transforming an otherwise ordinary space into a surprising, aesthetically pleasing environment. Sleek Laundromat machines, each containing different print iterations whirred with activity, allowing guests to see the inspiration behind each print and encouraging them to interact with the space itself and one another as if on a movie set.
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2018
Jeremy Scott is celebrating his birthday. Not the birthday of Jeremy Scott, the 42-year-old designer from Kansas City; rather Jeremy Scott, the distinctive namesake brand. But really, what is the difference? Scott is a designer who's personality is so transparent in his designs - his collections time and again let us peek into the mind of the fun-loving, eclectic American who 20 years ago staged his first show off-schedule in Paris.
For the anniversary show, Scott strived to refresh his distinct style while remaining true to what attracts his loyal following (basically, streetwear on acid). "It was a challenging process," Scott admitted. Not to undermine his word, but the show felt as challenging to process as a favorite guilty pleasure chick-flick. And why should fashion be any more complicated than that, anyway?
Neon phantom trousers overlaid bedazzled fishnet bodysuits, comic book printed body-con dresses were styled with over-the-knee python boots, fun bathing suits worn with chunky leather jackets: as per usual, Scott is hailing every contrast, clash and fashion faux-pas in the book. Perhaps the biggest contrast of all was Ms. Jourdan Dunn, one of the most commercially successful models, strutted down in a one-piece which read "VIVA AVANT GARDE." Oxymoronic, indeed.
Camper’s Techno Odyssey
Camper’s latest campaign is spearheaded by Romain Kremer, who has created a techno odyssey made up of surreal set pieces and vivid imagery. Six new alien-like personalities bring to life the A/W 2017 campaign, enlarging the Camper universe and telling a new part of its story: dreamlike characters are pictures with avant-garde designs, infused with the drama of over-saturated monochrome tones and colour-blocked, graphic shapes. Photographer Daniel Sannwald and makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench are the ones responsible for creating the high-impact, memorable images which were shot in London.
Avatars Thelma and Serena lead the march for women, Rex and Brutus for men, and unisex favourites Dub and Drift for the androgynous crowd. Viewers can step into Camper alluring new world on many different platforms, all around the globe: in-store, in print, on digital platforms, and their website.
SKEPTA x NIKE
Skepta’s collaboration with Nike is launching on September 2nd. The British grime artist worked with the sportswear giant on a fresh look for their classic Air Max 97 model, sourcing inspiration from his London council estate upbringing, his Nigerian heritage and from a recent trip to Marrakesh.
Talking about the Moroccan city, Skepta gushed over its pastel colors, geometric architecture, lively taxis, and the magical worlds hidden deep in the souqs. Local street style merged with traditional clothing was a huge influence in his design decisions as well: “The style reminded me of Nigeria — the way people wear such casual and practical clothing,” he said. “I wanted to introduce embroidery to the streets, a place where people don't feel entitled to certain things; I wanted to make us feel good, really.” He is referring to the braided embroidery detail on the tongue and on the back that, along with the playful print on the insole, harken back to these North African roots.
The dark burgundy and olive shiny finish is a throwback to another ‘90s Nike classic – the Air Tuned Max – which Skepta owned as a child. He recalls: “That was the first shoe I ever saved up money to buy, so I wanted to bring its magic to the 97 – the magic that made me first love Air Max when I saw it as a child.” A deeply personal and culturally rich project, Skepta’s Nike Air Max 97’s are likely to go down as one of the brand’s most successful collaborations.
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
“Come, gentle Spring, ethereal Mildness, come, And from the bosom of you dropping cloud, While music wakes around, veiled in a shower of shadowing roses, on our plains descend”.
James Thomson poem Spring from his The Seasons printed on the show’s invitation resonated in the enchanting space of the Orangerie du Sénat as the models walked in.
Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen Men’s 2018 started slowly to unveil itself, telling a story gracefully balanced, like the gradual passing time of melting snow and moving clouds as the mild warmth of Spring approaches overcoming the cold Winter.
If the first looks presented sleek tailoring, leather outwear in black, off-white or crimson red - three colours running throughout is the whole collection – and a spectacular leather perfecto with matching pants adorned by a constellation of zip, buckles and studs, they are the last looks to steal the scene.
As a white leather cape embroidered with Rudyard Kipling’s “The Explorer” excerpt walks in, we feel the storm, the storm that precede any changing of the season, the sea storm of discovering journeys.
Sarah Burton continues the delicate island folktale for Alexander McQueen from her Women’s Fall collection.
Loose threads in red and blue wool adorns coats and suits in off-white, black and denim recalling the wishing tree. Maps scribbles and ancient poems are embroidered over the collection throughout. The closing looks, with a tree of life embroidered in crystals on a black suit and coat deliver the final emotional blow to this moving and ethereal collection.
“While softer gales succeed, at whose kind touch, dissolving snows in livid torrents lost, The mountains lift their green heads to the sky”.
Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Junya Watanabe’s aesthetic has always been played around the notion of classic menswear.
With his specific model casting and strong vision., also this season the Japanese designer collaborated with Carhartt, Levi’s, Karrimor and The North Face delivering garments played around the notion of heavy-duty clothing.
The jackets featuring the latter's backpack embedded at the back and cut-up all over with The North Face elements confirmed the subtle genius of this legendary designer.
There were beautiful oversized denim, Jackets that pointed at authenticity rather than a fashion exercise.
Junya Watanabe created a youthful collection but shown once again with grownup next-door-guy and often bearded models, outside of the usual male casting. His “legit way to wear workwear” as the show note mentioned.
Or we could say, his poetic ode to the “real” and to the “ordinary” versus this over-constructed fashion system
It’s a vision Junya Watanabe has been building since a while now and the beautiful collection displayed pieces that will easily find their way to the wardrobe of many
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Workwear versus tailoring. Literally. Lucas Ossendrijver's virtuoso for Lanvin Men's Spring Summer 2018 exploded in a spectacular intricate composition where a dualism of silhouettes and materials merged as the model stormed in a situationist walk.
The factory worker jumpsuits, the tailored pants, the tech sporty anorak but in a checked classic English fabric, beautiful asymmetric knitwear and a strong vision that has graced Lanvin Menswear for more than 10 years.
The multitude of elements in this collection it’s as overwhelming as carefully balanced.
Reworked coats graced with graphic motives or with contrasting neon lining sometimes made into a reversible look. Trousers constructed with double sides where checked classic fabric at the front is mixed with a tech sporty finish at his back beautifully seamed together with a visible stitch. The check again – as in last Fall Winter collection – is one of the protagonists.
It’s a fascination for the classic menswear codes and its challenge to enrich it and enhance it with new elements and unexpected mix matching.
That play of the unexpected that Lucas Ossendrijver's delivers also in the accessory collection for Lanvin for Spring Summer 2018. A retro vintage camera leather pocket case, a massive squared bag as out of a messenger bike utility case with an engraved “L”, a necklace made out of an hand-hammered sculpture in metal covered with leather representing an incredibly detailed hand almost as out of an anatomical specimen collection.
It is an incredible collection of several influences, ideas, many genres, whispering one message: be yourself no matter what.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
A nomadic traveller. A wanderlust of island-hopping. Scuba zips, Aloha shirts in contrast with relaxed tailoring and fluid outwear as the modern trekking expert would oblige.
Kim Jones delivers a fresh and relaxed collection where sportswear and suiting play a dual identity game in an archipelago of declinations.
Fabrics as lightweight as modern. A paper-thin lambskin leather bonded with neoprene scuba parka floating in the heat-wave of the Palais Royal’s Jardin on the notes of the exclusive soundtrack composed by Drake for the collection.
As the new colours of the signature Monogram are introduced in the shade of blue: Pacific, a cobalt shade of blue, and Reflect, with its reflective finish is naturally recalling high-impact sport.
The sportswear theme is crucial in Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2018. Kim Jones plays with these elements in terms of colours, texture, and shapes. It is a playful and relaxed spirit pervading the entire collection – the Hawaii inspired floral patterns on silk organza for a short sleeved shirt layered on top of a tee with a matching print, intarsia knits of exotic foliage. The island as inspiration but also as state of mind.
The island as inspiration but also as state of mind.
Earth colours contrasting neon shades, the discovering of nature and the adventure of pushing the limits. The clogs sandals mixed with hiking boots bring a further staple items in Louis Vuitton fresh and sophisticated collection
Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collection was a sun-drenched collection of Riviera inspired pieces designed by Guillaume Meilland that exuded a leisurely lifestyle and the understated elegance synonymous with the iconic Italian maison.
If that’s hard to picture just think of Alain Delon and Marcello Mastroianni summering seaside in all their laid-back, effortless glamour. Bringing this aesthetic and grounding it in today’s reality, Ferragamo banks on the feeling of escapism supported by a breezy colour palette dominated by earthy hues, ivory, subdued pinks and light blues with a dash of hazy blues and deep mahogany.
Formal and casual styles focus on light silhouettes for a deconstructed feel that’s very in keeping with this season’s ‘from desk chair to beach lounger’ aesthetic without neglecting, of course, the addition of details intrinsically linked to Ferragamo’s leather savoir-faire.
Terrycloth, corduroy and velour are given a beachy makeover, revisited with a softer hand and decorated with subtle marine patterns featuring wreathes, corals and seahorses for Bermuda shorts, coats and jackets.
Contrasting this, classic British checks and fabrics are rendered pared-down and minimal, fluid and light while they manage to retain a casual disposition that wouldn’t stick out even in formal settings.
Legacy and immediacy, both core values for Ferragamo, manifest themselves through the offering of leather pieces that were bound to take centre stage for yet another season. Shapes may be roomy or slim but they are unlined and void of superfluous elements yet meticulously crafted with a strong focus on details. Why change a winning recipe?
Prada Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Remaining faithful to her eclectic style that has the ability to transform everything, from the most mundane to the most regal, into high fashion, Miuccia Prada turned her gaze to comic books for her Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear collection. You may be thinking of oversized capes a la Superman billowing in the wind but there was none of that!
“On one side there’s virtual reality and on the other the reality of the human part” said Miuccia Prada backstage justifying this season’s inspirations and how these shaped the sporty and streamlined collection presented in a space lined with oversize comic book graphics complete with a light beam-shooting Prada spaceship and speedy steam trains.
Even though comic books may deal at times with the realm of the fantastical, the sci-fi and the bizarre, for Miuccia Prada, it was a different quality they possess that propelled her to utilise them as the central theme of both her collection and runway décor. “They are hand-drawn, human, simple and real”, she said. Need we say more? Shirts with ample shoulders in red or black nylon and sleeves rolled up high, fanny packs and popped collars once reserved to the frat-boy look get the Prada seal of approval this season. Silhouettes were super cinched-in at the waist, a pattern visible throughout many ensembles.
Elsewhere, high technical knit socks were paired with short shorts in bright red or cool, steely grey as if harking back to something that wouldn’t have looked out of place on a 1970s baseball court. Steering away from such a literal interpretation, however, Prada paired the micro shorts with pointed oxfords – there was no Chuck Taylor All Star in sight. For those less keen on showing off their pins, enter the jumpsuit proposed by the iconic fashion house in navy or black, a clear continuation of the utilitarian dressing trend.
Palm Angels Spring/Summer 2018
The starting point for any creation, whether this refers to fashion, art or any other medium of expression, is a clear and defined point of view. The rest will inevitably follow suit. Palm Angels’ artistic director Francesco Ragazzi brought that to the table in abundance for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection.
LA's skater culture is reinterpreted through Ragazzi’s Italian frame of mind, highlighting its laissez faire attitude and the idea of a life lived according to ones individual rulebook. Palm Angels stems from that same appreciation for American cultures and subcultures as it merges an appreciation for sartorial codes and a penchant for clothes being utilised as identity tropes and zeitgeist signifiers.
The Spring/Summer 2018 collection is entitled Black Sun and it pays homage to yet another enduring American subculture: surfing. Bold silhouettes and pragmatic forms are visible in the offering of parkas, duster coats, field jackets and boxy shirts that walked the runway in Milan Fashion Week. Boarding shorts, miniskirts and scuba suits were not neglected either.
Presented with the addition of functional details such as drawstrings and dangling straps, the collection also featured hints of formality in the shape of a tailored blazer that veered off the beaten path to the office and ended up beachside.
In a palette of red, black, orange, sand and grey with sun-faded effects that afford it a disobedient tone, Palm Angels’ sporty physicality acts as the link between the men’s and women’s collection.
Versace Spring/Sumer 2018 Menswear
Passion for the craft of fashion is something that runs deeps at Versace. Hate it or love it, it’s a fact that the roots of the Maison’s values run deep and are intrinsically connected to family. As this year marks the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s tragic death, it may come as no surprise that this collection was partly a homage to Gianni himself, a fresher take on the codes that cemented him as a household name in fashion.
Pinstripes are refreshed and remixed with stong-shouldered tailoring or shirts where pinstripes are made to contrast and clash with one another. Powerful prints were added to the mix this season: the utility of a tech blouson is contrasted with the romantic “Balletto” print while the “Angelo” print that appears on a sharp quilted bomber. Elsewhere, a classic Versace logo looks totally new, embroidered in white stitches on a baby blue or pale pink T-shirt, worn with matching straight leg jeans.
The menswear offering was accompanied by a special womenswear capsule collection designed and presented entirely to complement the men’s. Chock-full of pinstripes, cut-and-clashed prints and rich embroideries the models strutted down the catwalk with black headbands reminiscent of Gianni’s last couture show.
"This collection is like a homecoming. It's about the passions that define Versace, the complexity of men, the energy of today," said Donatella Versace.
HUGO Spring/Summer 2018 Fashion Show
Presenting its mens- and womenswear Spring/Summer 2018 collection, HUGO transformed a factory in Florence into a candle-lit fashion show.
As a tribute to the spirit of the artist, the collection and the space itself illustrated all kinds of sketches and paint strokes that symbolises art and expression. An artist's unconventional perspective upon things, living according to his own rules with an sensitive yet careless attitude, just like the brand characteristics of HUGO, served as inspiration for the collection.
Many of the styles are in collaboration with the Designer Charles Jeffrey, with cut and shape inspired from the first HUGO collection from the year 1993, alongside completely redefined tailoring. The collection also presented oversize jackets and jumpsuits to create a unisex look with a color palette inspired from the artist's studio, reaching from neutral tones to shades of blue, yellow and of course the classic HUGO red.
For HUGO, this Spring/Summer collection is also all about the accessories. From oversized men’s bags, sneakers with chunky soles, to long earrings or pearl chains, they all contributed to a playful look.
Amongst M.I.A, Anwar Hadid and many others, present at the show was also ZOO Magazine’s current cover star, Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis, all wearing head-to-toe HUGO.
The Beats and The Vanities, Larry Fink Exhibition at Armani/SIlos
A collection of exquisite black and white photographs from Larry Fink’s The Beats and The Vanities books will comprise the latest exhibition at Armani/Silos. The exhibition presents a unique opportunity for the legendary photographer’s work and idiosyncratic vision to be experienced as one as they have never before been shown together before.
Giorgio Armani himself is a great fan of Larry Fink’s work, finding his ability to capture form and line in such a fluid way something he can relate to as well as a designer. “Fink is a jazz fan, and you can almost view these images in terms of musical composition – people in flow, surprising us, possessing an unconscious sensuality”, he adds.
Born in Brooklyn and raised in a progressive and politically active family, Fink cut his teeth as a photographer as part of the late beat generation, when he hooked up with a group of beats at the age of 17. Political activism, protests and marches formed the photographers worldview who documented the times through his medium-format camera.
His pictures serve as a time capsule and a candid look into his world, perfectly capturing the sense of romance and rebellion that characterised the underground jazz-fuelled youth movement of the time. A regular editorial contributor for prestigious titles such as The New Yorker and Vanity Fair, it was the latter that recognised his ability to bring them something different if let loose to create.
His visual record of the famous and their surrounding courtiers is not concerned with who’s who – rather it focuses on what’s happening. As Fink himself describes it, he tries to embrace the souls of all people, regardless of their conditions.
The Beats and The Vanities, Photographs by Larry Fink will be on show at the Armani/Silos until the end of July 2017.
Dior Fall/Winter 2017
Taking the reins of a legendary fashion house is always a challenge. Maria Grazia Chiuri is not new to the job. She, together with Pier Paolo Piccioli, took the helm of Valentino one year after Sir Garavani’s retirement, keeping high the stakes of the house, bringing it back to international acclaim.
At her second collection for Dior, Chiuri’s wish to bring a revolution and play with the house’s codes is even more clear. She is a woman, and as every Italian woman, she is naturally engaged in elevating women’s power and society’s perception of the female stance. If you were expecting a Valentino’s modus operandi you were mistaken.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is not easily affected by predictions. She has a vision and she is certainly not playing the safe card. Dior Fall Winter 2017 was entirely declined in shades of blue, a blue that Chiuri found in the archives of Dior – particularly on a taffeta silk dress designed in ’54 - and quickly got fascinated by. It’s the blue of uniforms, of elegant evening dresses and certainly of denim. It’s a young contemporary collection. Chiuri wishes to picture the contemporary woman emerging the tense political climate of our time.
Last season’s motto “We should be all feminists” left the place to a more consistent and strong statement where the clothes speak by themselves. The basques created by Stephen Jones give a further accent in this sense. It almost as we see a troupe of suffragettes, marching one after the other advocating women’s freedom to dress however they find fit.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
Loewe’s creative director J.W. Anderson is transforming this luxury Spanish leather brand into an impressive fashion house where cultural references, design, architecture, and the beautiful leather craftsmanship coexist.
Like for his eponymous label, Anderson is able to create a dialogue between the arts, where fashion is at its centre, without any stretch. The romantic and enchanting feeling reminiscent of Gone with the Wind’s Rossella O’Hara ball gowns together with a playful splash of Commedia Dell’Arte’s Pierrot and Harlequin, where the polka dots and the western hat felt perfectly parts of the same image. But also the signature handkerchief hem dresses and a parade of countless accessories declined in new colours like the polka dot iconic puzzle bag.
As in every season we see experimentations with butter lamb leather in exceptional peplum waist-cinching tops, dresses, suits, outwear in a variety of colours: lipstick red, moss green, and the forever favourite almond and black. There are so many fascinations Anderson took into account for Loewe Fall Winter 2017 and it just feel fresh and captivating.
Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017
Declinations of deconstructed silhouettes in shades of black. Pleated, wrapped, twisted. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2017 celebrates the roots of the acclaimed Japanese master himself in all the aspects that have been constantly accompanying his vision.
Forty-four looks of pure architectural shapes, and virtuosic silhouettes in a crescendo of emotions. As Yamamoto once again recorded his own guitar playing for the show music, it’s almost as if we could see him, in his home, sitting down and casually strumming his acoustic guitar, in search for fragments of time, emotions, images. Singing about a woman, the archetype of the woman itself.
And it’s the search for the perfect balance of draping around the female body the protagonist of the collection. The gracious volumes protruding along the figure with bias cut, deconstructed, rigorously in black with hand-painted splash of purple and blue. Painting has always been a beautiful obsession for the Japanese designer and we know he would never refrain from expressing the refuse to use print patterns.
The collection synthesizes magnetically these feelings of attachments to identity and the exciting search for the new. Yohji Yamamoto showed once again the unconditional pure beauty of staying true to oneself.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
We have come to a point in fashion when history has been elevated without precedent. There is a lot of the 80s Monsieur Yves we know in the new Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. For Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2017 there is again a respectful reference to the history but also a lot of the Vaccarello DNA that we have seen in his eponymous label for many years.
That sexiness, that daring and fierce attitude the Italo-Belgian designer infused in his own shows season after season before becoming the new creative director of the historical Maison. And then there is the show vibe. Anthony Vaccarello presented his second collection for Saint Laurent in a surreal, and provoking atmosphere inside the under-construction site of the new brand’s head quarters in rue Bellechasse at the Left Bank of the Seine. The rain pouring down, the scaffolding as backdrop, the loud pulsing music as in any squat party, was the perfect set as to declare a new beginning, the shaping of the new identity of Saint Laurent in fieri.
Bold short dresses in velvet, caramel and black leather matched with long up-to-the-neck gloves as to create a tromp l’oeil effect for maxi shoulders. Thigh-high boots in patent leather and rhinestones with ruches - sure to become the obsession of next season. But also strong day looks with an invasive sense of masculinity: denim with mohair sweaters, shearling jackets, or a simple tee. It’s that subversive soul that Yves Saint Laurent himself was known for. It’s that unexpected atmosphere that everyone is waiting with anticipation at this fashion house. As his predecessor, Vaccarello will make everyone want to wear his clothes. With no exceptions.
Burlesque for the Senses
Few cities come close to Berlin’s notoriety — renowned for its progressive art scene and home to internationally-famed nightclubs, the city seems to constantly reel in artists, free thinkers and hipsters from all over the world, creating a buzzing, infectious atmosphere that gives way to a thriving art scene. But something unique and glamorous lies behind the doors of the Berlin Provocateur, the latest gem in hospitality that opened its doors to the public in March 2017.
An other-timely experience that is patiently waiting to be discovered channels the exuberance of Parisian 1920s style, and places creativity and joie de vivre at the forefront. Think of enigmatic songstress édith Piaf and the dandy gentleman that was Oscar Wilde. Where would these legends choose to sojourn, relax and recline should they have been transported to modern day Berlin through some inexplicable twist of fate? With that very concept in mind, Micky Rosen and Alex Urseanu, the Frankfurt visionaries and hoteliers behind Gekko Group, brought to life an oh-so Parisian oasis in the heart of the German capital. Describing the immersive experience that greets guests upon arrival, but also permeates the Provocateur’s modus operandi in its entirety, is no easy feat. Rarely are you able to truly feel transported to an iconic city, let alone a seminal era for the arts and culture.
But the Provocateur and its fifty-eight stunning rooms, bar and restaurant beg to differ — and rightly so, as they give ‘hospitality with a passion’, Gekko Group’s motto,an entirely new meaning. Amsterdam-based designer Saar Zafrir is the creative mastermind behind the hotel’s modern burlesque character. Sensual yet intricate details coupled with warm colours and intriguing textures comprise a beautifully serene ambiance. The journey begins at the lobby, where an elevator from 1912 fulfils its prescribed function, while simultaneously acting as a portal to French je ne sais quoi. What’s more, the guest rooms hold further surprises: at the simple push of a button, guests are given the opportunity to delve further into the reverie of the Parisian past, guided by music and images that are projected on the walls. Unapologetic in its Frenchness, yet somehow contemporary as ever, the Provocateur’s interiors feature luxurious, plush furnishings in warm hues and details that accentuate its glamorous influences. Duc Ngo, one of the most influential figures on Berlin’s flourishing restaurant scene, is responsible for the Golden Phoenix restaurant, where he brings to life his personal vision of fusion cuisine. At the Provocateur bar, arguably the establishment’s beating heart, guests are invited to taste a menu that boasts several creations with clear Franco-Chinese influences and a tastefully provocative burlesque attitude. With its hotel, restaurant, bar and event room, the Provocateur offers all that matters for a stay in Berlin. No sense is left unsatisfied — and that is without even leaving the premises. A case of ‘stay up all night and sleep all day’.
Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017
British actor Matthew Goode fronts the new Pal Zileri Spring/Summer 2017 ad campaign perfectly embodying the mix of elegance and contemporary tradition that defines the brand's aesthetic.
Shot by German photographer Dylan Don outdoors in the ground-breaking Muralla Roja compound is Calpe, Spain, designed by Spanish architect Ricardo Bofil, Goode displays a unique and controlled attitude against the sun-soaked hues of the buildings.
Color, light and the graphic lines of both the location and the clothes play a key role in expressing the essence of the collection and its distinctive mismatch of 3D textures, volumes and shiny/matte effects, all awash in terracotta red, turquoise, plum, sky blue and burnt orange. The striking architecture of the Muralla Roja building, characterized by interlocking strairs, platforms and bridges, exalts a lifestyle appeal that Goode elevates with his effortless and dynamic sprit, melding time-honored savoir-faire with a fashion-forward twist.
Lala Berlin's Persian Punk revolution
Lala Berlin's Fall/Winter 2017 collection epitomises the metropolis of Berlin in an anarchic big-city chic way with a fresh attitude. Thus is born an ode to the unconventional yet elegant women that reinvented themselves as Persian punks.
Beautiful arts and crafts in architecture and textiles are the inspirations for a wardrobe that mixes punk and ethnic elements in such an authentic and modern way. A boheme and avant-garde style is conveyed in a variety of silhouettes from H-lines to flowy A-silhouettes and oversized asymmetric overlays. Feminine cuts, kimonos and tunic dresses give birth to the Lala’s punk-chic evening wear.
The color palette fades within dark chic colors like khaki, dark red, ink blue and black mixed with warm saffron yellow and cream interjected with vibrant and lush elements from middle eastern traditional art. Vibrant print ideas are reimagined in Berlin 80’s punk fused with Persian décor and floral elements are transformed into something new and fresh that reminds us of a mosaic print.
Frayed edges and star lace trimmings give a certain sense of poetic punk bohemia to dresses, skirts and shirting. Knits, iconic elements of Lala’s wardrobe that incorporate jacquards with frayed details are a sumptuous tapestry of textures.
The Persian punk girl gets out her Dr. Martens and leather accessories to inspire an anarchic revolution, to think about the future while redefining her style and inspiring change for the better.
Christian Dada Fall/Winter 2017
“It was boundless blue, almost transparent. I stood up, and as I walked toward my own apartment, I thought, I want to become like this glass. And then I want to reflect this smooth white curving myself. I want to show other people these splendid curves reflected in me” The melancholic closing words of Ryu Murakami’s Almost transparent blue - one of the most striking Japanese contemporary novelists exploring the themes of youth and drug abuse - echoed in Masanori Morikawa’s new Fall Winter 2017 collection for Christian Dada.
Puffer jackets in aluminium silver as reminiscent of drug wrappers, Coca Cola-red sweatshirts with Heroin written in the same typography as the iconic American drink, sweaters in psychedelic orange and blue tones serving as glimpse of post-drug hallucinations.
Morikawa’s collection is imbued with duality - certainly the epitome of youth itself – and that uncertainty and struggle of reaffirmation of young individuals. We see relaxed men’s cut shirts that reveal an incredible heavy textile at the touch, deconstructed jackets that show the lining on the outside, lurex raw materials, all surprisingly soft to the touch.
The T-shirt and leather sweatshirts in collaboration with former English fashion designer and illustrator Charles Anastase, all point in the same direction.
Yet Morikawa presented a collection with a composite of Japanese nostalgia. Like the summer nights spent wearing Jinbei – but here transposed in leather and denim – or those high school times – with the tartan motifs from school uniforms juxtaposed here with urban silhouettes. Christian Dada is beautifully grown up and we are looking forward to seeing the evolution of the brand.
OFF WHITE Fall/Winter 2017
“The show is real” Virgil Abloh told us backstage after the show. Real and now, much like the urge to touch the everyday life of many in various forms. For OFF-WHITE Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection Abloh stood up for a new chapter of the brand. Oversized outwear gives way to tailored silhouettes. The extreme youthful approach is now moving into a more grownup vision.
The spectacular set design featuring real fading leaves and shedding trees inside the harsh concrete brutalist UNESCO building, wraps the collection in a surreal atmosphere. As we walk inside the venue we feel overwhelmed by this recreated landscape. It almost urges you to just take a stroll and roll in what looks like a wintery park’s forgotten route.
Checked coats with embroidered foliage, denim printed with flying doves and adorned with golden leaves by London based jeweller Duffy. Exquisite knitwear permeates the whole collection, both for men and women, featuring the brand’s signature bar logo. In all its wearability Seeing Things – as named by Abloh - is a romantic and ambitious collection yet staying true to OFF-WHITE’s identity rooted in the streets.
A new way of seeing, as resonating in the words of British writer John Berger’s Ways of Seeing, was chosen as the opening narration for the show: “The images has come to you, you don’t go to them. The days of pilgrimage are over. It is the image of the painting which travels now”.
G-STAR RAW presents RAW RESEARCH II by Aitor Throup
Exploring the unlimited possibilities of denim has become Dutch brand G-STAR RAW's latest challenge. The brand presented its latest project, RAW RESEARCH II, in Paris' Palais De Tokyo.
Curiosity and experimentations brought this project to life creating a capsule collection, its pieces a prototype of the latest in denim innovation. The collection features a brand new 3D denim concept: the “ Motac” series. An ergonomic study of the human body in motion gave birth to Motac, created to make garments with perfect fit and versatility thanks to a combination of rigid denim and flexible fabric panels.
To pay homage to G-STAR RAW's homeland, its new creative director Aitor Throup used the iconic Dutch tulip as a conceptual backdrop. Tradition and innovation were brilliantly fused together.
Vivienne Westwood summer trip to the Mediterranean
The Mediterranean has always served as a source of inspiration for poets and artists. A symbol of eternal beauty, of endless summers. A beauty that many have attempted to explain with words but that is better left to feelings and emotions.
Andreas Kronthaler's Spring/Summer 2017 'Europa' collection for Vivienne Westwood is a case in point. The collection is an ode to the Mediterranean's laid-back summer vibes and evokes images of sandy beaches, sunsets by the sea and days spent in nothing more than a bikini. But much like everything that bear's Vivienne Westwood's signature, there's a political statement to be read between the lines: 'Europa' is a continent in crisis, struggling to come to grips with the humanitarian crisis of mass migration, an issue that stains its reputation but somehow doesn't distract from its charm.
Legendary photographer Juergen Teller shot the campaign in Greece, with the picturesque white houses and blue waters serving as the perfect backdrop. Showcasing the garments as well as the scenery beautifully, Teller also managed to highlight the Mediterranean's grotesque facade with a mixture of sophistication and grunge very synonymous with the Vivienne Westwood brand.
Former sex-symbol Pamela Anderson features in the campaign providing a contrast that also links to the power of Mother Nature. The result is simple and delicious, just like a plate of spaghetti.
Kenzo Fall/Winter Menswear 2017
Imagine the backstage of a show brought on stage, in the spotlight, able to witness it at 360°, as in Walter Gropius’s Total Theatre: from the make-up to the models line-up, from the food banquet to the backstage photographers roaming around, from the seamstress fixing the last detail seconds before the start to the laughs between models.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim created this unexpected backdrop for Kenzo Menswear and Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017 collection in the name of the environment, making clothes the real stars of the runway and leaving the backdrop in its neutrality in order to give funds to environment organizations instead of making a wonderful yet costly set.
A vision that was reflected all over this Arctic inspired collection. The triggering Arctic changes and the – unknown to many – Arctic surfing were, indeed, the paths followed by Leon and Lim who presented a multitude of over-layered looks in an impressive colour palette. It was overwhelming and, as Kenzo’s signature, fun and youthful.
The dip-dyed long knits in rainbow colours with matching ski masks worn under solid coloured puffa jackets and graphic digitally printed technical ski suits.
The Womenswear collection followed up in a more gentle and feminine declination. We saw easy urban long cable knit dresses, A –line coats, teddy handbags and delicate dresses with transversal side cuts, revealing floating strings, as a sort of intellectual reference to the increasingly undergoing destruction of our Mother Earth.
A dandy poem by Alexander McQueen
A dandy spirit that explores the deepest sides of Oscar Wilde's soul during an esoteric trip that Germans call Wanderlust. A contemporary gentleman traveling from London's Tite Street to Paris Saint Germain seeking inspiration from the world that surrounds him.
Alexander McQueen documents this journey through his latest menswear collection, paying homage to the man who has become synonymous with the term 'esthete'. British tailoring plays a central role in a collection that encapsulates and celebrates the house's trademark codes. Precise and elongated cuts in suits with peaked shoulders and legged or flare trouser silhouettes – worn cropped above the ankle and sometimes with a satin or velvet band on the sides, offer their elegance to coats and jackets alongside jacquards with peacock feathers for the most daring dandies. The collection also explores and plays with proportions, combining classic and more of-the-moment oversized fits to give birth to a new hybrid of men's shirt-dresses. A worn-in feel is brought forward by mohair knits, frayed at the edges and laddered with holes. For the evening, Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter 2017 features tuxedos, smoking jackets and robes with satin quilted reveres, embroidered velvet and jacquard to give an incredible taste of elegance to a collection that is worth of an old-fashioned gentleman.
McQueen's latest collection is a true ode to Oscar Wilde, done in incomparable style and honing in on elements that have granted the brand the status it holds today. No doubt it will be at the receiving end of countless praises this season.
Rocking it with Dior Homme
A utopian sense of refined grunge has always characterized Kris Van Assche's creative direction at Dior. For Dior Homme Summer 2017, Van Assche's dynamic energy is reflected through a new generation of four inspired characters: A$AP ROCKY, Boy George, Rami Malek and Ernst Klimko.
A 'do it Yourself' attitude runs through the brand's creative direction this season, a path that the four diverse Dior Homme personalities will follow, eventually converging to personify the house's vision of Homme. The campaign's four faces may embody different disciplines of modern art but through Van Assche's direction, they provide an all-encompassing, cohesive undertone for the French house's men's collection.
Interestingly, hip-hop is made elegant in this line giving birth to intriguing pieces such as the dark floral garments designed by Japanese artist Toru Kamei.
Shot through the streets of Paris and in studio by photographer Willy Vanderperre, the campaign pairs heritage and an innovative rock, raw-edge mood that will undoubtedly make it a key player in Dior's already impressive campaign portfolio.
Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture moment has come
Schiaparelli Maison, Chanel's historical rival is definitely back on the scene after a long hiatus. This January marks a milestone for the celebrated maison as the French Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture decided to enlist Schiaparelli among the 15 fashion haute couture brands existing in the world.
Ravaged by the aftermath of the war, Elsa Schiaparelli closed her iconic Paris "Schiap Shop" in 1954, the very same year that saw the release of her autobiography "Shocking Life". It was only three years ago that Italian businessman Diego Della Valle decided to revive Schiaparelli, believing in the power of its indomitable style and unparalleled innovative techniques.
Alongside stores of long-established brands in the field such as Chanel, Givenchy and Dior to name a few, Elsa's shop in Paris' Place Vendome is opening its doors again to pick up where it left of, starting a new chapter in haute couture history.
LOUIS VUITTON CELEBRATES 30TH ANNIVERSARY IN BERLIN
France and Germany join in for the celebration of 30 years of Louis Vuitton, the brand synonymous in everyone's mind and many hearts with élégance française.
Louis Vuitton celebrated its birthday with the opening of its latest concept store in Berlin's Kurfürstendamm. Celebrities and influencers from the world of fashion were present to mark the joyous occasion. A combination of craftsmanship, savoir-faire, continuous innovation and heritage - all keywords for the long established brand as well as the city that played host to its celebrations.
Berlin incomparably contemporary dynamism and Parisian haute couture give birth to 'amour toujours'.
The world through Henk Schiffmacher’s “camereyes”
When Texas, Henk Schffmacher's daughter discovered her father's old 35mm negatives in a dusty drawer, she knew they had to be exposed for the world to see.
Dutch tattoo artist, Henk Schiffmacher has become known for his energetic and observational photographic work that is now being collected and exhibited for the first time ever. Highlighting the best and worst facets of modern society, this eclectic ensemble of pictures is a real representation of the world we live in through Schiffmacher's camera.
Taken between 1970 and 1985 these pictures give us a raw insight into the world of youths, bikers and tattoo fetishists from all around the globe – from Las Vegas, L.A., Amsterdam, and Tokyo to Mumbai, Manila, San Francisco and Kuala Lumpur.
This makes for an interesting juxtaposition: a wild mix of cultures, nationalities and excess against the backdrop of vintage cityscapes and timeless scenarios. Schiffmacher's photography offers a unique and brilliant view of the world as it was four decades ago.
Pure, direct and unprecedented just like photography should be.
PIRELLI CALENDAR 2017: An Unfiltered Emotion
“In a time when women are represented in the media and everywhere else, as ambassadors of perfection and youth, I thought it was important to remind everyone that there is a different beauty”
‘Emotional’, the title chosen by Peter Lindbergh for the 2017 edition of the iconic Pirelli Calendar. No other word could strike such a chord in women’s hearts that, nowadays, find themselves fighting against unrealistic beauty standards imposed by society. Fighting to fit in a world in which all things beauty are accompanied by a certain degree of fakery.
Pirelli Calendars have always been seen as conveyors of a specific message of perfection that could be hardly afforded by us, mere mortals. Following Annie Leibovitz’s thread of last year, Lindbergh decided to let beloved actresses shine through their nakedness. Not a nakedness imposed by the lack of garments but by the absence of filters.
The choice of abstaining from Photoshop editing is indeed the leading theme of the 2017 Calendar, which includes actresses like Uma Thurman, Penelope Cruz, Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet and Julianne Moore in all their natural feminine splendor. The beauty that speaks about the courage of being yourself in your own sensibility.
Lindbergh’s message wants to reach all women who feel worthless, despicable, and inadequate in a way that only an artist of his caliber could achieve.
Sited at 420 W. Broadway in New York in the heart of SoHo shopping district, KARL LAGERFELD celebrates the opening of their new flagship store, the first one in the United States.
The open feel of the boutique is best intensified by its 3230 square feet, where the overall interior design takes inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld’s private home and studio. Marble finishes, velvet chairs and vintage mirrors create a unique atmosphere, while others elements, such as the red border around the carpet’s edges, tell little stories about the wide imagery of the iconic designer.
The New York boutique will include KARL LAGERFELD and KARL LAGERFELD PARIS ready-to-wear collections for both men and women, as well as accessories and footwear.
In addition to that, Karl Ikonik, the playful collection featuring Karl Lagerfeld and Choupette graphics is also presented. Yet besides clothing, the boutique will also introduce a collection of cosmetics, realised in collaboration with Australian Beauty brand ModelCo.
Keeping the eye focused on future initiatives, the house will surprise customers with the launch of the special collection KARL LAGERFELD x Kaia, which will be available from September 2018.
As Paolo Righi, CEO of the brand, declared: “Opening the first KARL LAGERFELD store in the United States is an exciting milestone in our brand’s continued growth. […] New York is an international fashion capital with a modern spirit and energy that make it ideal setting for our new flagship.”
Innovative, timeless, contemporary. The World of Karl is an open invitation to observe how the future of high-end retail experience looks like.
Formed in Chicago 1988, The Smashing Pumpkins have marked a chapter for the history of alternative rock.
They released their debut album Gish in 1991, reaching mainstream success later on in 1993 and 1995 with respectively 4x multi-platinum Siamese Dream and 10x multi-platinum Mellon Collie and the Infinite Sadness.
Overtime, they gained worldwide attention as well as influenced several groups for a very distinctive sound, exploring the more diverse genres and music styles, such as heavy metal, progressive rock, psychedelic rock and more recently electronica.
After several changes in their line up and 30 years later, the band has announced their “Shiny And Oh So Bright Tour”, which will be the first in nearly 20 years to feature founding members Billy Corgan, Jimmy Chamberlin and James Iha, including also guitarist Jeff Schroeder.
Produced by Live Nation, the tour will feature material from their debut trough 2000 and kick off in Glendale, AZ on July 12, 2018 and North American arenas throughout the season.
At ZOO we wished it was already “Tonight, Tonight “, yet we’ll make a count down because we can’t wait for seeing them live this summer!
On the 30th March at National Gallery of Australia, Cranberra, historic jewelry brand Cartier will inhaugurate an exclusive exhibition, featuring more than 300 hundreds masterpieces samples from Cartier Collection, private owners and institutions.
Designed by renowned scenographer Nathalie Criniere, the exhibition has been co-curated by Margaret Young-Sanchez, Denver Art Museum and NGA and will dispaly a selection of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II’s personal jewels, including the Queen’s Halo tiara.
As well, several items belonged to European monarchs such as the 10.48-carat diamond engangement ring of Her Sirene Highness Princess Grace of Monaco will be showcased alongside famous clients’ private belongings, including the Duchess of Windsor, Mexican film star Maria Felix and Elizabeth Taylor among many others. In addition to that, a variety of the brand’s iconic watches will be showcased for the occasion.
As Gerard Vaughan, NGA Director stated: ‘Jewels of spectacular calibre and size, amongst the most important in the world, magnificently set by Cartier’s renowned craftsmen will be exhibited only in Canberra. It is a collection of immeasurable quality and value, the likes of which have never been seen in this country before, and may never be again. Years of research and gentle persuasion will deliver an unforgettable experience.’
Dedicating this project to Australian people and of course, Cartier lovers, the event that will last from the 30th March until the 22nd July 2018 represents a unique occasion to explore and be overwhelmed by the incredible production of an extraordinary company leading the way of diamonds design for over a century.
When French painter Henri Rousseau realised renowned artwork “The Dream”, he recreated a jungle scenario only observing tropical plants and flowers at Paris Museum of Natural History. For Fall 2018, designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon bring the surreal painting into a dreamlike collection, melting the brand language with inspirational references taken from the past. Therefore, soft knit sweaters, parkas and skirts function as a canvas and accurately reproduce lotus flowers, jungle animals and natural landscape. By contrast, bright colors over striped knitwear pieces recall Kenzo graphic identity, remarking brand prowess in combining art and contemporary fashion.
Atavistic yet extraordinarily conceptual, Rick Owens is a master in transcending fashion discussion to the highest level. Hence, ancient myth of Sisyphus is reinterpreted with approach recalling the radical language of Arte Povera. Femininity turns abstracts and is deconstructed and layered trough a brown color palette unveiling pilled fabrics and padded swaddling. Mythology is recalled by bulky and extravagant panniers, yet balanced by a sporty feel that runs over the entire collection.
Oversized coats and over-the-knee cowboy boots introduces us to Isabel Marant’s imagery, which this time takes inspiration from old American westerns. Paisley motifs, fringed decorations, lace details over delicate blouses and a warm color palette alternate with pieces that recall 80s glamorous femininity trough ruffled mini-dresses and wide shoulders. For both men and women, the collection evokes a strong sense of sophisticated comfort, assuring a distinctive take on this modern reinterpretation of America.
Set in the Unesco building, Loewe show under creative director Jonathan Anderson unveils an intriguing collection, which seems to support the need for a comfortable wear. Although, the relaxed outlines face with a more contemporary approach to fashion aesthetics, as well as they reveal a strong focus on classic tailoring and enhancement of volumes. Flowing dresses and shirts are adorned with ruffled sleeves, leather collars external pockets and eventually silk bra attached in the front, offering women a very variegated range.
With his collection, Haider Ackermann deliberately points out the fragility of our times. Models are perceptibly androgynous, yet their silhouettes remark the presence of a sober, linear elegance. The bitter shines trough the color palette, including light olive green, pink, caramel and sky blue tones emphasizes the richness of fabrics, which in turn reveal interesting embroideries and ruffles over suits in jacquard and velvet dresses.
At Hermes Vanhee-Cybulski presents a women collection that is nothing but an attentive work on details and hourglass silhouettes. This is a collection that cover up the body to let the clothes speak for a classic elegance. The abundance of dark leather (alongside different proposals in light olive green, red and caramel) that would be conventionally associated with a subversive seductiveness, here is sophisticatedly transformed in a sober yet luxurious take on classic pencil midi-skirts and jackets in what seems to recall the compelling fascination of noir movies.
Creativity is our energy, multiplicity is our strength. Truthfulness is our credo. Change is what drives us forward. Moncler is continuing to explore the surrounding spirit of its uniqueness. The future starts now.”
On the 20th of February and with a powerful manifesto, new forms of expression for iconic duvet brand have been announced. Conceived by Remo Ruffini, Moncler Genius is the result of a consistent work of research culminating in different languages that narrate only one identity.
Using the jacket as a starting point, fragmentation becomes the main concept and guideline. Eight projects turn the product in an object and communication mean, strongly oriented to functionality and newness.
The new Moncler building hosts several areas identified by a number, each of them dedicated to a single project (which will be realised monthly) interrelating with others and interpreting the singularity of Moncler consumers.
Starting from 1 Moncler Pierpaolo Piccioli that focuses on purity of forms, Moncler 1952 instead pays tribute to the brand’s year of birth, adopting a curatorial approach.
The journey into the exhibtion-like space continues with Monocle Grenoble focusing on prints and fabrics, Moncler Simone Rocha on deconstruction, Moncler Craig Green on the dialogue between clothing and the body, Noir Kei Nimomiya on wereable geometries, Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara on reinforcing the duvet cult-status and eventually Palm Angels working on logos and slogans.
With Moncler Genius, a new and really clever direction for the company has been set up, extraordinarily combining those diverse medium that celebrate imagination and uniqueness.
In cooperation with Italian leading publishig house Giangiacomo Feltrinelli Editore and Eyewear brand Luxottica, Prada Journal unveils the winners name for the a competition which has seen 5 tesimonials, 75 contributors and 267 selected Prada Journalists sharing their own Inner Landscape.
The projects explores the theme of relationship between the personal sphere and the outside world, asking the participants to use texts and images (photographs, video or illustrations) to best suit the creation of a compelling digital content that translates what can be a personal perspective into a collective, sharable overview. The three winners Giorgia Ascolani (video), Isabella Giambitto (image) and Nadya Zakharova (gallery) have been selected by Davide Monteleone, Mimi Xu and Margaret Zhang, testimonials of the project.
In addition to the context, Prada Journal in collaboration with Luxottica have realised an elegant yet essential Eyewear collection, featuring metal frames, double bridges and acetate inserts, which enhance both brands affinity with high craftmanship and offer an exclusive tool with which observing the inner world and the outside reality.
In anticipation of Spring 2018, the new Longchamp flagship store on Fifth Avenue in New York inaugurates the building façade with an illustration from Paris-born artist Guillame Alby, also known as Remed.
The visual work, which has been named ‘L’Eau delà-Émoi’ (Water from there, Emotion), is part of the technique series and echoes an “ode to the present trough the worship of the line, for the love of a gesture that most resembles the essence of intention, or the state of awareness” as Remed declared. The result is a mathematical conjunction of lines and letters that hypnotically captures the viewers’ eyes trough simple curves and vivid primary colors, yet dramatically enhance their personification due to a creative process that involves the use of permanent tools, namely not allowing for anything to be erased.
Before, artists Ryan McGinnes and Franz Ackerman curated the first and second installations. Remed is the third one being commissioned by Longchamp trough their Artwalk Movement, successfully transforming retail sites into large-scale artworks available for the wide public.
Playing with American culture and inspired by everyday heroes, Raf Simons for Calvin Klein presents a layered collection, sporting long skirts, overcoats, balaclavas, knits. From Sofia Coppola’s 2017 The Beguiled to Nasa’s aesthetics, Simons’ references emboss a rich symbolism on Calvin Klein's minimalistic style, interlacing elements from workwear: cropped jackets, prairie dressed and looks reminiscent of an industrial milieu.
Mentioning baseball without including New York would be an oxymoron. With its ‘Sports Tailoring’, Hugo Boss celebrates the American's favourite sport and translates it to high tailoring. There is a focus on making extra sizes and volumes for cashmere coats, puffer jackets and raincoats. Baseball graphics along with Hugo Boss initials adorn shirts and jackets, while flashes of neon yellow are added to classic wool pieces in brown and grey, which elaborate a new imagery for American elegance.
Aligning fashion with art and architecture is likely one of the diktats of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, who presented their collection at their showroom in Manhattan’s West Village. For the occasion, the studio has been transformed into an exhibition space where 13 sculptures from artist Isamu Noguchi were displayed to enhance The Row’s vision. Monochromatic and earthy-toned, the collection unveiled relaxed knitwear dedicated to non-conformist women of the 20th century.
Bondage-style straps and neon orange iconic bob wigs. The reference to Luc Besson’s cult movie The Fifth Element is immediate. Over 20 years since the release, Jeremy Scott pays homage to heroine Leelo (marvellous Milla Jovovic) delivering a bright collection with sharp lines saturated by kaleidoscopic prints and tight moon boots. Make-up by Kabuki and hair-styles by Eugene Souleiman was the perfect backdrop.
For Zadig & Voltaire, Art Director Cecilia Bonstrom focuses on sensual femininity, with white T-shirts and tight vinyls. The collection features both men and women’s looks in oversized soft sweaters in red and creamy hues, as well as leather jackets interpreted in new different cuts. To complete the outfits, relaxed blousons are worn under sculptural trenches, while jackets add a touch of balanced androgyny to the full range.
A landscape of lights. A cityscape and its never-sleeping crowd.
Lanvin Fall 2018 collection epitomises Lucas Ossendrijver’s extraordinary know-how in constructing a garment and inventing totally new codes.
We have seen the seminal elements in his Summer Spring 2018 presented last June: combined fabrics, double inlays that revealed a duality.
This season we see the apotheosis of this idea: deconstructed and layered garments play together where everything is masterfully balanced blurring the borders of the garment’s identity itself.
It’s that strong sense of the unexpected invading the entire collection. Sports pieces in fabrics borrowed from the tailoring world: see the puffer gilet delivered in grey pinstriped wool worn over a classic coat.
It was mesmerizing trying to capture all the annexed elements, the attached from the layered, the inserts pieces where the subversion of the traditional idea of a suit is the main theme.
“I focused on the most classic, almost passé item, drawn directly from the legacy and origin of the Lanvin man: the suit. What is a suit? Two pieces, a jacket and trousers, cut from the same fabric. I wanted to deconstruct this idea, using layering”. Ossendrijver’s approach on tailoring delivers a modernity merged with sartorial tradition.
The use of sleeveless parkas is striking: layered on tailored pieces or part of a articulated garment: a part-technical, part-suit parka jacket – in an updated Price of Wales check – sported an asymmetric zip around the collar to reveal a shirt and another suit jacket beneath.
“For me, these combinations make a modern suit. I wanted to create a smokescreen”.
Just few days before the show it was announced that Kim Jones would present his last collection for Louis Vuitton Menswear.
For many reason it was certainly a surprise. Who more than Kim Jones delivered year after year beautiful collections true to one of the oldest French Maison’s identity while bringing it to hype amongst the younger crowd? Last year’s Louis Vuitton collaboration with Supreme is only one of the acts in this sense.
After 7 glorious years, first appointed as Menswear artistic director in 2011 by Marc Jacobs -at the time creative director of the brand - he developed a signature style with a travel allure, the latter being the main recurring elements in Louis Vuitton heritage.
For his last collection at the brand Kim Jones used once again his travels, this time in Kenya, where areal photographs are directly featured on prints. Their colour palette with warm dry tones - recalling natural rocks, lavas, and infinite landscapes - running throughout the collection. It delivered a classic and elegant style while using sportswear elements like leggings worn underneath shorts and zipped blousons.
Gloss materials from fabrics to a spectacular python coat and pants (that on a closer look during a visit at the showroom resulted incredibly butter soft) together with organza overlay on coats and shirts – tracing a fil rouge with previous’ season Hawaiian organza t-shirt – epitomise Louis Vuitton’s delicate and refined definition of luxury .
Kim Jones picked from many themes: the American rodeo, the Siberian temperatures with an intarsia mink, a safari attire and the world of hiking and climbing with hints of neon yellow and orange.
The show arrived at its peak when iconic top models - and friends of Jones - Naomi and Kate joined the runway, dressed in glazed monogrammed raincoat.
A beautiful finale as ode to a new beginning.
In January 2018, Italian brands Peuterey and Vespa will partner with KaDeWe to present a new, innovative capsule collection. Playing with two different styles, the proposals for the outerwear, a windbreaker and a field jacket, come with goggles and a helmet. The jackets are made in lightweight and waterproof fabrics and released in diverse colours, smartly combining dynamic functionality with contemporary elegance.
Following the mood of a trans-seasonal adaptability, the pieces focus on versatile characteristics, such as the foldable hood and a detachable lining.
By contrast, both the helmet and the goggles feature a linear and clean design presenting beige stripes details over black tones and definitely point out the two iconic brands’ aesthetics.
From January 29th until the 18th of February, the collection will be exhibited on a special display. Two pop-up stores on the first and second floor will simultaneously showcase the men and women’s collection.
With Yvan Rovic taking over Peuterey's and KaDeWe's official Instagram accounts, customers will also have the opportunity to follow the trend-spotter in the discovery of Berlin as well as find out interesting details about the collaboration.
Last but not least, KaDeWe will invite two famous celebrities, whose names are still kept secret, and ask them to experience the collection. This interactive event will take place during a cocktail party inside the store and invites customers to engage with the duo adding a unique contribution to the project.
lala Berlin X König Souvenir
lala Berlin teams up with König Souvenir for the release of a collection of 10 limited edition pajama sets, featuring digitally printed silk made by artist Corinne Wasmuht.
The collaboration splices the experimental vision of the urban firm with the 2017 König Souvenir project, which aims to give artists the opportunity to transfer their work into other medium. The 3D artistic approach that characterizes Wasmuht’s work is therefore communicated by the prints and cut of pajamas, which intensify the multidimensionality of the perceived image.
Presented trough a dance performance by 13-year-old Hip-Hop Dancer Leonie Ozeana, the collection comes alive, creating a transition between reality and dreams, art and fashion. The limited edition collection will be available from the 20th of January at König Gallery.
Lana Mueller Launches Fall/Winter 2018-19 Collection
On the exclusive 1st floor of Restaurant Borchart, Lana Mueller unveils the traits of her woman: extremely feminine and pleasantly delicate.
A sober elegance is suggested by the color palette, which prefers pale blue, full green or light sorbet shades and even more highlighted by sophisticated fabrics, such as a classy lace combined with hand-painted velvet and light chiffon that celebrate the beauty of organic forms.
In line with its precise identity and redefining the modern codes of urban elegance, Lacoste launches their R-T-W brand new polo shirt.
Characterised by a slim concealed button placket and a collar band, the shirt is proposed with shorter length and a straight fit that highlight the silhouette. The use of light materials like the stretch cotton mini piqué allows a comfortable and practical wear, while a tone-on-tone embroidered logo remarks the clean essentiality of the label, aiming to create a timeless look easy to combine with different styles.
Available in 15 shades, the Paris Polo will be available online and in all Lacoste stores from February 2018.
Karl Lagerfeld Jewelry Spring/Summer 2018 Collection
The icon Karl Lagerfeld is widely known for his cutting-edge approach to fashion. The KARL LAGERFELD fashion house, which is creative directed by the designer himself, has its roots in a DNA that stands for accessible luxury and coolness. For the SS18 jewelry collection, the brand combines elegant elements with a rock-chic style and playful embellishments. A palette of multi-colored pastel Swarovski crystals gives the pieces a timeless feel.
Divided into three groups, the collection covers every kind of style. Klassik Karl is inspired by the personality of Karl Lagerfeld himself. His world famous cat Choupette and his handwritten signature appear in pavé Swarovski crystal finishes. A collection of necklaces, bracelets and earrings is featuring the letter “K” as a pendant, embellished with Lagerfeld’s silhouette.
The Ikonik-part of the collection is rooted in the brand’s cool creative aesthetic and characterized by celestial stars and hearts paired with sketchbooks and safety pins. The pieces are made out of rhodium, gunmetal, gold and rose gold plating with Swarovski crystals. Further, the range offers an interchangeable charm program allowing the wearer a customized look.
Exuding an elegant and sophisticated aesthetic, the third part of the jewelry collection, called Essentials, makes the day-to-night look an effortless transition. Centered around faceted pyramids and Swarovski crystals, these pieces provide dramatic looks that are modern, rocky and cool at the same time.
The necklaces, pendants, ear jackets, hoop earrings, bracelets and rings all come in a mix of geometric pyramid shapes. The KARL LAGERFELD Spring/Summer 2018 jewelry collection will be available from the end of January in stores and online.
Moon Boot x Moncler
Two brands that are somehow synonymous with winter in fashion, just announced a collaboration with each other. The French outerwear brand Moncler, that connects the extreme demands of nature with those of city life, breathes life into a collection with Moon Boot, the iconic brand for aprés ski shoes. A capsule collection that fuses the stylistic elements of both brands, creating minimal to opulent boot models.
They are playing with colors, but a brillant black, that blends the classical with the traditional, is always prevalent. The collection is featuring boots in complete black, characterised by the typical Moon Boot tone-on-tone graphics, in sand, kaki, with shearling wool or a greige canvas effect. Various typical designs have been revisited concernig content, proportions and height.
The softness and exclusivity of silvery fox fur transforms the pieces in something even more desirable and timeless. With this collaboration a simple winter and sports shoe has become an iconic object and must-have of modern times offering cosy wintertime chic.
Moncler Collaborates With Lifestyle Brand Kith and Asics
It seems like the luxury outerwear brand Moncler can’t stop to make common cause with other great brands. After a collaboration with Junya watanabe, Balenciaga, Katrantzou, Sacai, Ami, Virgil Abloh and Craig Green, the brand now presents two more. For FW17/18 the brand has collaborated with New York-based lifestyle brand Kith.
The main collection includes a range of T-shirts, sweatshirts, graphic outerwear made from iconic lacquered nylon, trousers with thick-weave biker padding jackets and waistcoats of clean geometric lines. This is topped by accessories like gloves, backpacks and balaclavas, and, not to be missed when collaborating with Kith, footwear. The footwear comes in a variety of boots made of nubuk or calf leather with shearling lining.
The color palette represents the colors of the French flag, deployed in linear and geometric form for maximum style and renewed appeal. The collection is a match of names and symbols of both Moncler and Kith.
The second drop of the collection is the collaboration with Asics featuring exclusive sheepskin-lined suede trainers, named KITH x MONCLER x ASICS, blends different manufacturing techniques in unique pieces. Ranging in calf and suede leather, the shoes are available in navy red and off-white colors.
The launch of the main collection will take place on December the 2nd in Moncler and Kith stores as well as online. From December the 8th the second part of the collaboration with Asics will be available.
Moncler Celebrates Opening Of Hong Kong Flagship Store With Art-Installation
On November 16th the brand Moncler celebrated the opening of the renovated flagship store at Hong Kong’s Harbour City in Canton Road with a flash art-performance installation called Destination Hong Kong. This is the last chapter in Moncler’s history of collaborations that intertwine the language, imagination and inspration of creatives with the brand’s signature style and vision. The vital melting pot Hong Kong and its futuristic skyline make it the ideal setting for the artistic performance.
A multitude of more than 10,000 Mr. Moncler 19-inch statues – the brand’s symbolic ambassador in, a humurous product of pop culture – has been positioned in several key locations in the city. With this project Moncler pays tribute to the residents of Hong Kong and celebrate the multicultural and universal message of art. The renowned street artist Craig Costello customized a limited number of 350 unique Mr. Moncler figures, that became an instant collectible gift for the people who were luckily present at the selected locations.
Fondazione Prada Presents “Slight Agitation 3/4: Gelitin”
“Slight Agitation” is a four part-project of newly commisioned, site-specific works hosted within the Cisterna of the Milan venue of Fondazione Prada. The third chapter of this exhibition project is an instalment by the Austrian collective Gelitin and called “Slight Agitation 3/4: Gelitin”. The project, titled POKALYPSEA-APOKALYPSE-OKALYPSEAP, features three large sculptures, which explicitly address classical architectural archetypes: the triumphal arch, the obelisk and the amphitheater. These rhetoric and monumental components are symbols as much as structures conceived for everyday inhabitation. The sculptures draw an arc from the insular and individual to the open-ended and collective, from the overtly erotic to the sublimated joy of togetherness. The central space of the Cisterna is occupied by Arc de Triomphe (2003/2017), which is a reproduction of an elephant-high male figure, bending over backwards, made of plasticine.
The presence of a fully functioning water fountain transforms the exhibition space into a collective one, manifesting Gelitin’s liberating artistic approach. In the left side of the space, another gigantic sculpture, made up of polystyrene blocks, resembles a typical Inuit construction or a cigarette on top of a big table. The third sculpture, a wooden upward spiral, is reminiscent of an antique amphitheater. Visitors can enter the sculpture and are even invited to smoke a cigarette in the center of the installation. This banal act makes them instant protagonists of a short, ephemeral act that positions itself, according to Gelitin, somewhere between Samuel Beckett’s Theater of the Absurd and a karaoke performance. The exhibition will be open until the 26th of February 2018.
The Piazza by Bottega Veneta
The ideal bag is often described as versatile, elegant and convertible. The newest bag Bottega Veneta created for their Cruise 2018 collection is combining all these attributes. It is a fresh take on the classical top-handle style. With The Piazza the Italian fashion house has transformed the traditional silhouette for today. Sleek, timeless lines and graceful design make the bag, crafted out of calf skin, an epitome of modern elegance. A soft construction, an internal compartment and a cross-body-strap, for some styles with an intruiging intrecciato detail, combine design and function successfully. A wide color palette of neutral tones as well as reds, greens and blues makes sure there is a The Piazza for every taste.
At the poolside on a summer’s day, Bono and Jack Nicholson are having a casual conversation. Captured in black and white, it’s a spontaneous snap of a private moment, caught on camera by Jean Pigozzi. He brought them together at the villa, which was built for his father in Cap d’Antibes in 1953. There is a saying: Great minds think alike. Apparently, they also vacation alike. Pigozzi’s small format exhibition Pool Party brings genius musicians such as Mick Jagger and iconic models like Naomi Campbell together in portraiture, enjoying sunny days at his private pool parties in the south of France in the early 90s. It is currently being shown at the Museum of Photography and Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin, in June’s room. Helmut and June Newton frequented his summer parties as well – a secret getaway. While Pigozzi’s images let the viewer take a plunge into a summery setting to explore the life of the rich and the famous, this is only one aspect of the tripartite mix of exhibitions. Another friend and colleague of Newton shares the space, in the form of Mario Testino’s site-specific installation called Undressed.
It’s a combination of a number of previously unpublished fashion and nude portraits, which analyses the physical notion of undressing. It blurs the boundaries between fashion and eroticism, between anatomy and art. The presentation of the images is especially a sight to behold. 50 larger-than-life images are affixed to the walls of three exhibition halls, reaching into the corners of the room and touching the ceiling, thereby creating a landscape of human bodies. Nudity becomes nature. Unseen rounds off the complementary selection of exhibitions with original prints of Newton’s own images, mainly focusing on photographs combining nudity and fashion in a subtle way. There are many never-before-seen images from the archives mixed with famous portraits of Jeremy Irons at the Ritz Hotel in London, or Michael Gross at a swimming pool in Dortmund, reuniting the returning themes of all exhibitions. The arrangement of images goes full circle. The exhibitions “Mario Testino. Undressed / Helmut Newton. Unseen / Jean Pigozzi. Pool Party” are on display until November 19, 2017. The Museum of Photography / Helmut Newton Foundation is located at Jebensstraße 2, 10623 Berlin, Germany.
Hermès Women’s Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2018: A Playful Colour Story
For the Hermès Women’s Ready to Wear Collection SS18 Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski was inspired by the classic bourgeoisie codes of the French maison and the 1990s. Playful deconstruction and reconstruction were the leading motives for the designs. Well-known Hermès silk-prints reappear on blouses, pants and coats shaped into feminine and modern silhouettes. An equestrian touch is added by a saddle blanket, reinvented as a cape, and colourful tartan prints. Neutrals and earth tones add a modern feel to the collection. Elegant dresses are wrapped around the models in a special way and indicate femininity. The modern and artful pieces are honoring the savoir-faire of Hermès and the cheerful colours make us wait for the warmer season with anticipation.
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2018
A laugh, a constant chuffed female loud laugh. It’s Michele Lamy’s voice in her latest album, accompanying Rick Owens Spring Summer 2018 show staged at the ornamental pond on Palais de Tokyo’s esplanade.
Rick Owens’ parade of draped, layered, adjunct looks felt - more than the recent Menswear Spring Summer’18 - like a continuation of the previous Womenswear Fall Winter ’17, with its spectacular volumes and emblematic head pieces of what looked like a sacred procession. At the time Owens declared how it was a propitious gesture in name of humanity and a positive new beginning as opposite to his historical cult of darkness.
On the same wavelength, this Spring Summer ‘18 collection is a rejection of any dark climate our time is undoubtedly imbued with. The show started with off-white silhouettes carefully draped with oversized bags placed at the waste, to create volumes recalling wombs.
The collection was rich in variations: sequined looks with knitted threads over them in brown, grey, and black; embellishment details in forms of slim linear beads placed in the shape of striped architectural structures over tops and dresses, occasionally recalling a moebius form.
But it were the final looks that undoubtedly stole the scene. A series of cocoon-like forms made of carefully shaped transparent jersey revealing intricate origami forms beneath, covering models heads’ and elongating them as to create a new being, a new existence. Rick Owens’ ode to joy, light and what’s still to come was staged in a water spectacle where beamers vertically sprayed water ten meters high. As the models walked in an impetuous fresh mist invaded the entire space. The PR’s urging us to wear the plastic rain ponchos placed on every seat pre-show, finally made sense. With Rick Owens signature’s logo written on its back we all looked as part of a congregation, reunited for some propitious ritual in the name or rebirth. A cleansing from this tired society.
Claudia Schiffer presenting book and new products in Paris
Claudia Schiffer has become a modern icon and her face is one of the most photographed of our times. On September 28th she arrived in Paris and headed straight to the exclusive signing of her book at the legendary boutique Colette, wearing Balmain Resort 2018. At the event she also unveiled her new limited edition make-up collection with ARTDECO. "Throughout my career, make-up has played a starring role,” Claudia Schiffer tells. The collection features the products she considers essential: starting with a natural mascara-only look, right through to a glamorous red carpet style. The collection was introduced together with a new invention: The Beauty Bot. The mechanical creation - inspired and co-created by Claudia - plays a robotic beautician in the movie “Kingsman: The Golden Circle”. Two beauty products, the Poppy Land red lipstick and the Kingsman red nail polish, are even inspired by the movie’s villain Poppy, acted by Julianne Moore. “Every woman needs a bold red lipstick and a glossy red nail polish in her make-up bag - and what could be sexier than one inspired by the Kingsman’s vibrant villain played by Julianne Moore?” said Schiffer. Following the launch at Colette, Claudia was sitting front-row at the Balmain SS18 show before hosting a cocktail party celebrating the launch of the Claudia Schiffer x Aquazzura collection at Hotel D'Evreux.
Dior Spring/Summer 2018
“The question: Why have there been no great women artists? – is simply the top tenth o fan iceberg of misinterpretation and misconception: beneath lies a vast and its situational concomitants, about the nature of human abilities in general and of human excellence in particular, and the role that the social order plays in all of this”.
Linda Nochlin’s essay in 1971 is such a contemporary discourse now more than ever.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, at the reign of Dior for already one year takes the words of Nochlin as a source of inspiration continuing her feminism reference since the start. We found Nochlin’s essay in form of a small booklet on every seat at the show almost as a urge to reflect in such a fragile political moment. As we entered the spectacular venue of Musee Rodin, a humongous facade in shape of a milestone welcomed us.
Engraved with the enchanting words of Niki de Saint Phalle: ”If life is a game of cards. We are born without knowing the rules. Yet we must play our hand, throughout the ages people have liked playing tarot cards. Poets, philosophers, alchemists, artists, have devoted themselves to discovering their meaning”.
The female artist Niki de Saint Phalle - at the time friend of Marc Bohan – is one of Chiuri’s muse for the Spring Summer collection. Her androgynous style, but also her work with the colourful sculptures – the “Nanas”.
Chiuri dives into her world and into Dior’s archive, celebrating the work of Bohan with his mini dresses, the polka dots, the slim look and the pants, a wink to the first Dior Homme line created by Bohan himself in 1970.
The collection is an ode to the 70s but also the 60s with that irreverent sexiness emblematic of the changing of time. Short little dresses, worn with high laced boots. But also a series of soft bustier dresses - quickly become the signature of Chiuri’s at Dior - this season adorned with sequins in electric colours, reminiscent of the disco subculture of these years.
Amsterdam is Everywhere
Scotch & Soda take a trip to the world’s remotest Amsterdams for its latest campaign, paying tribute to its stubbornly curious spirit. The Dutch fashion brand journeyed by air, rail and sea to get to an Amsterdam untouched by Google Street View, the one in the Arctic, that is.
Amsterdam Island, located in the northwestern corner of Norway’s Svalbard archipelago, is just one of twelve other places across the globe that share their name with the brand’s home city. And if you’re left wondering why the brand opted for the remotest Amsterdam there is, the answer is simple: that’s exactly what Amsterdam is really about; resisting simplicity and discarding practicality if it means realizing a seemingly impossible dream.
With frozen fjords and monochrome peaks as its backdrop, the explorer-themed short film and its enchanting voiceover speaks to the mind and soul of Amsterdammers the world over. Highlighting the city’s free-thinking spirit and its inclusivity, the film celebrates the Dutch capital’s allure, because Amsterdam is wherever you want it to be.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2018
The Philipp Plein show, held at the Hammerstein Ballroom, was one of the hottest tickets of New York Fashion Week. Crowds lined up around the corner on 34th street hoping for a spot to witness the VMAs-worthy spectacle.
The tone of the show was Alice in Wonderland goes BDSM goes streetwear - coincidentally, a mix of most of the trends we've seen in recent years. The over-sexualized collection, complete with leather garters, dark lipstick, whip-like hair, and forgotten pants, caters perfectly to millennial listeners of Fifth Harmony and present-day MTV: truly an Instagram-worthy show.
Despite lacking in the subtlety department, the show didn't disappoint on an entertainment level. Most likely costing in the seven figures, Philipp Plein brought dazzling star power: Nicki Minaj sat front row, Future provided the raw soundtrack, Teyana Taylor's swagger lit up the runway... Anywhere else, this would have felt dramatically out of place. But in New York, where one can see a Yeezy show before rushing off to Carolina Herrera, perhaps anything goes.
Go With the Flaw!
Always eager to challenge conformity and outdated notions of flawlessness exacerbated by social media and endless filtering as a means to perfection, Diesel strikes again with a new campaign bursting at the seams with positivity.
It’s time to Go With the Flaw! You got that right, forget the flow, embrace the flaws and find the bravery to wear them with pride as an intrinsic part of your true self.
The campaign is focused around a film by François Rousselet, the French director behind collaborations with the likes of Snoop Dogg, Madonna and The Rolling Stones while print and billboard imagery was shot by photographer Tom Sloan.
Edith Piaf provocative and unapologetic ‘Je ne regrette rien’ provides the perfect soundtrack as the cast embrace the uncomfortable imperfections of everyday life and rise above it with smiles on their faces.
A carefully curated cast of people with interesting features front the brand’s latest campaign. Each and every one of them selected by Diesel’s Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti for one simple reason: “Being unique is much more beautiful than being perfect”.
The official launch of the 2017 Fall Winter campaign will take place in Beijing on Wednesday, September 6th and will be accompanied by a limited edition capsule collection with Chinese music idol, Chris Lee, that advocates a candid approach towards one’s ego and celebrating imperfection.
POWERMASK: Walter van Beirendonk at the Wereldmuseum
From the 1st of September 2017 until the 7th of January 2018, the ethnographic Wereldmuseum in Rotterdam will host POWERMASK, an exhibition curated by Antwerp fashion designer Walter van Beirendonck. The exhibition is a journey through the deeply symbolic, totemic and patrimonial world of masks, an often underrated accessory in contemporary fashion. Van Beirendonck has incorporated masks into his fashion collections since the 1990s, sourcing inspiration from André Breton, Pablo Picasso and Pieter Bruegel’s caricatural portraits.
The exhibition will examine links between Western art and African masks, the supernatural rituals surrounding masks, masks in fashion, masks as fetishes, and numerous other aspects. Van Beirendonck has styled the 125 masks, unpacked from the Wereldmuseum’s archive, with colorful costumes and fashion silhouettes. The backdrop of the exhibition is a delightful patchwork of wall installations by contemporary artists such as Brian Kenny, Coco Fronsac and Charles Fréger, macabre paintings of James Ensor, playful illustrations by Keith Haring, and designs by haute couture heavyweights Viktor & Rolf and Jean Paul Gaultier.
Kenzo Spring/Summer 2018
Asian models, only. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim celebrated two icons of Japan where Kenzo as brand finds its deep roots back to founder Kenzo Takada.
The collection explores the personalities of master musician Ryuichi Sakamoto and topmodel Sayoko Yamaguchi for Spring Summer 2018 menswear and Womenswear respectively. A beautiful look at their world, their time, their influences to Kenzo.
It’s as we were allowed to jump back into the past where Ryuichi Sakamoto was playing with its pioneer electronic group “Yellow Magic Orchestra” in the late 70s, and during the solo years composing the spectacular soundtracks for Bernardo Bertolucci’s “The Last Emperor” in the late 80s first and “The little Buddha” in the early 90s.
His individualism hinting to classic English tailoring mixed with Japanese 50s baseball culture is the main inspiration for Leon and Lim. It is a beautiful collection, eclectic in its preppy style and avant-garde attitude.
The extremely high-waisted trousers are matched with graphic tees printed with original images by Sakamoto himself. It’s the late 70s, the 80s, but more than a specific decade it’s the unique creative persona of Sakamoto.
For the Womenswear collection Leon and Lim channelled Sayoko Yamaguchi personality in the clashing of stripes, prints, coloured and bold sequined look: a love letter to the iconic top model and Kenzo Takada’s muse. Frills, feminine pieces next to more graphic ones.
The accessories are a striking element. Reminiscent of traditional Japanese accessories, they are reworked with pop colour, neon materials or stripes. The bags recall the beautiful satin pouches carried by Japanese women dressed up in kimonos during summer festivals with all that vintage allure.
All framed in a spectacular live performance by singer Lafawndah and aerial dancers on the façade’s courtyard of the show venue. An inspiring ending of this fashion week.
Sacai Spring/Summer Menswear & Women's Pre-Spring 2018
Chitose Abe's new collection for Sacai is a tribute to the duality of genders, the investigation in terms of Men/Women clothing. This season the show was featuring men’s Spring Summer together with Pre-Spring Womenswear.
As the models walked in squads, there was a strong sense of group, of subtle genderless interpretations.
Like the beautiful Menswear checked looks entering the spectacular venue of Cité de la Musique together with their female counterparts. Oversized sporty for him, layered - at a time short - dress for her.
Abe's playing with different elements between the formal and the sporty, the sculptural and the sleek almost in an ode to freedom at its core.
There was a lot of that deconstructed and cut-ups from Abe’s DNA. But also a new streetwear simplicity declined for both sexes. Oversized, sculptural jackets with fringes hinting to Western Americana with sculptural bell sleeves for her or a sporty silhouette for him. The beautiful declinations of checked looks, a signature pattern for Sacai’s vision, were the most outstanding in terms of layering and transparencies play. The collaboration with pioneer conceptual artist Lawrence Weiner and his typographic artwork was another take in terms of that freedom of expression Chitose Abe reaffirmed looks after look.
“STATIS AS ON VECTOR ALL IN DUE COURSE”, featured almost as graphical pattern on full looks in black over white and vice versa felt minimal but once again provocative.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
The fluidity of a soft blazer, a silk kimono wrapped over relaxed pants and a shirt. A confident look without being loud. A soft toned collection, with a hint to workwear and a beautiful relaxed tailoring.
This is Dries Van Noten at his core, the Dries Van Noten who voices the darkness of life and doesn't feel the urgency to talk always in bright coloured notes. The Dries van Noten from the early years.
It is always extremely overwhelming to experience a show of this celebrated master. The integrity and the strength of his poetic vision. For this season the show was held in the historical offices of the iconic left wing French newspaper Liberation.
As we climbed up to the venue at the top floors of the 8-storey building from its parking ramps, we were gradually feeling this atmosphere, the weight of history, of knowledge and of thoughts.
Mustard, khaki, or zabaione as the show notes pointed out, the colour palette led to an elegant but youthful menswear collection true to the brand's signature.
Shorts with linen boxy shirts, oversized and slouchy sky blue blazer paired with a shirt in cerulean shade and classic pants, belted trench coats.
It’s that relaxed attitude in Menswear that several designers have been embarking on lately, that cool oversized look that Dries van Noten has created 25 years ago.
"After spending many years traveling to Japan I became fascinated with the dry gardens in Kyoto, specifically the way in which the gardens are permanent yet completely ephemeral and remade every day,” said Daniel Arsham, an american artist who studied at the Cooper Union in New York. His new solo exhibition is on view at Visionaire in New York until the 5th of November.
The work, titled “Lunar Garden,” is a combination of architecture, sound, and an immersive environment that reinterprets the traditional Japanese rock garden: surreal and dreamlike, Arsham’s oasis uses a vibrant pink color scheme, features a moon-like orb spanning 3 meters, and peculiar patterns in the sand that the artist freshly rakes every day. Traditional greenery, such as the bonsai, has been replaced by a petrified tree and a lantern. For Arsham, the use of color is a new experiment. Previously, he has relied on a palette of black, white and gray tones. The reason for this shift is that Arsham is colorblind, but has recently been able to see vibrant colors thanks to special glasses: the radical change is his sense of sight and perception of color has prompted an important new visual language for the artist which can be witnessed for the first time in “Lunar Garden.”
MSGM Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
This season marks a new chapter for Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM after his departure from Emilio Pucci earlier this year. The move has been a catalyst for him to dedicate himself fully to his own brand MSGM, that’s been making street wear waves for quite some times now and shows no sign of slowing down.
Giorgetti’s MSGM Spring/summer 2018 Menswear collection was a well-travelled one. Drawing inspiration from modern street culture has been a constant for the designer who, this time, travelled to sunny California picking up on the inimitable vibes the west coast has to offer. From skaters and latter-day hippies to Burning Man festival-goers, Giorgetti’s references are as current as they are multi-faceted.
This season is all about workwear-inspired apparel in the form of madras parkas reworked into oversized volumes, paired with extra large backpacks. But colour is never far from the designer’s mind who offered his sports-alluding shapes an extra pop by pairing army green with bubblegum pink or turquoise while elsewhere graffiti and watercolour flower motifs elevated nylon ponchos and a chino pantsuit. Thick, cosy knitwear pieces embroidered with boisterous lettering were paired with short shorts and blousons were seen layered over boxy t-shirts.
The MSGM man’s sartorial identity may seem hard to pin down, but that’s exactly where the beauty is: as he floats between identities, influences and moods he picks his battles of rebellion carefully while remaining in the now.
Missoni Spring/Summer 2018
Even though it wasn’t made explicitly clear, all elements point to a collection dedicated to an urban gardener, quite possibly Angela Missoni’s father whom her mother fondly referred to as ‘her gardener’. With a long-standing love for gardening that spans across generations of Missoni offsprings, this appears to be a well-founded claim.
Missoni’s style has always been characterised by an ease and effortlessness that many brands have tried to emulate throughout the years. Tried being the operative word here as this is exactly the element that should be missing from such an equation.
Lavender, periwinkle, indigo, cherry, blossom, apricot, shadow blue, mint, bamboo and red birch fabrics were dyed, blended and then washed to achieve that faded, almost blurred effect that screams Missoni from miles away.
The silhouettes were relaxed in a way that oozes stylish comfort, accentuated by fabrics that enhance that same aesthetic: slouchy utility pants with a lived-in feel in linen, for example or lightweight wools and cotton crepes. Denim was also given its time to shine in Missoni’s Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear collection – it was washed an appeared to have accompanied the man wearing it on many a relaxed adventures.
A bright and summery mood without trends or frills, bells or whistles, a calm joyfulness that exudes happiness much like a well-tended garden under the summer sun.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2018
True to form, Philipp Plein delivered yet another runway extravaganza for his latest men’s and women’s collection showcased at Milan Fashion Week. Revved-up engines, super cars, boy racers and tough girls comprised the mood of the tire-screeching spectacle accompanied by the sounds of Greased Lightning.
Frayed denim, studded leather jackets and sleeveless t-shirts for the rebels of a modern West Side Story were paired with chequered flag patches, flaming eight balls and ‘Glorious Bastards’ insignia while applique red flames adorn their jeans.
The ladies present a fresh twist on Grease’s queen bee persona, the inimitable Rizzo, as they hold their own in the leather bomber jackets and crop tops, leggings and bejewelled killer heels. Men and women stand their ground as equals, all members of a speed-obsessed squad that transcends gender stereotypes.
Hooded crocodile and leather biker jackets are decorated with airbrushed painting of Deat Proof hot rods, skulls and lightning bolts mirroring the designs emblazoned across the hoods of the pimped-out car zooming past.
Here, it’s the details that do the talking as every element counts in fine-tuning a look. Adrenaline-fuelled fashion for life in the fast lane where noise, power and speed conflate to give birth to something akin to a religion with ‘no guts, no glory’ as its mantra.
Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear
Thom Browne brought his signature hand-made tailoring sensibility to Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring Summer 2018 Menswear collection. Thus was born a perfect conflation between Browne’s flair and the brand’s expertise in active sportswear and outerwear for a collection that highlights an ease in seasonal transitions.
Down-filled looks made with over-sized plastic zippers and worn over identical looks without the down-filling epitomise the concept of smooth change. The collection was split into three colour-coded subcategories: grey and grey and white, red, white and blue and formal.
Trademark Thom Browne tailored pieces were present in traditional suit material iterations as well as more technical versions that incorporated highly functional fabrics such as technical wool and cashmere, nylon, ripstop, mesh and rainproof slicker.
Fendi pays homage to Rome with Giuseppe Penone's Foglie di Pietra
Following Giuseppe Penone’s Matrice exhibition hosted at Fendi’s headquarters in Rome’s Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, Fendi installs a new site specific artwork by the artist entitled Foglie di Pietra in Largo Goldoni. Thus, FENDI renews and highlights its undying bond with Rome by gifting the city and its people important artwork from one of the most celebrated contemporary sculptors.
Foglie di Petra (Leaves of Stone, 2016) is one of Penone’s most complex artworks: two tall bronze trees standing at 18 and 9 metres respectively, interlace their branches five metres above an 11-tonne sculpted marble rock. Archaeology and ruins, history and biology are intertwined with one another bringing attention to the permanent bond between nature and culture. A celebration of a deep synthesis between the flowing of natural and human time through a longing and romantic nostalgia for lost civilisations.
Through virtuous use of precious materials such as bronze and marble, Penone’s Foglie di Petra recalls the illusionism and marvel of Roman Baroque, while the fragments and the ruins inserted in the sculpture’s branches harken back to the Classic and Medieval era. What’s more, the artwork is the first oeuvre of a contemporary artist to be permanently installed in Rome’s public spaces and is bound to become a symbol of the identity of an ever-changing city that remains steadfastly linked to its historical roots.
Ermenegildo Zegna launches Bespoke Atelier
March 15th 2017, marks a pivotal stage for Ermenegildo Zegna, as it announces the opening of the first Bespoke Atelier. The space is dedicated to the label’s bespoke service and is locate at the top floor of the Zegna building in Milan’s renowned via Montenapoleone.
The stand-alone project revolves around the idea of intimate elegance with a distinctly Milanese feel and treats its bespoke services with a precise ritual. The experience begins right at the entrance where clients are welcomed by a valet and ushered in the Atelier which is conceived to comply with aesthetics and functionality of traditional tailoring ateliers: an apartment cum workshop with the public and working areas connected yet separable.
The large space is furnished with both vintage and new pieces as well as pieces that hark back to Zegna’s very own history. Warmth and charm intermingle with a domestic feel making this a truly unique tailoring experience that strengthens the dialogue between the Milanese brand and its customer base of men of discerning taste who aim to have their wardrobe made according tot heir own desires, demands and lifestyles.
Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2017
Describing Alexander McQueen Fall Winter 2017 as romantic and ethereal would certainly be an understatement.
Inspired by the fascinating tales of Celtic traditions like the Cloutie wells and the medieval tales of King Arthur, the collection recalls the beauty of the shores in Cornwall, its magic ancient rituals and enchanting stories.
Knit and washed leather dresses are pierced with trailing of coloured lacing in silk, resembling the tradition of fastening a strip of cloth on a tree as votive offering, the wishing tree.
This long and feminine silhouettes underlining the female body recall the English mediaeval soft dressing as found in 16th and 17th century art depicting the beautiful tragic stories of Lady of Shallot and Queen Guinevere.
Sarah Burton gives us a full vocabulary of spectacular fabrics, embroideries, finishes, enabling us to dream about the rich landscape of myths and cultures of Cornwall. It’s as we could see the wind blowing on its coast, the ribbons and the hypnotic vision of million of threads floating in name of life.
A tweed interlaced with bright coloured twisted yarns and chiffon stripes of fuchsia, crimson and green. The medieval-inspired needlework cross-stitching embroidered on the fluent dresses and finished with silk trailing threads, floating around as the body moves: wildlife, witches rituals, letters, and even the date of birth of Lee McQueen.
It is a touching collection, youthful and powerful. The last sequence of evening dresses in silk tulles with an overwhelming embroidery work, glass beads, stones, fringes, loose thread and the house favourite feathers, give the final emotional blow for this magic collection
Mugler Fall/Winter 2017
Natasha Poli storming the catwalk in a blue patent leather blazer with arched shoulders and slim pantsuit. The atmosphere was fierce and as the models powerfully marched in one after the other, the message that creative director David Koma surely had in mind was clear: effortless and daring, Mugler’s woman will not be unnoticed.
Don’t be mistaken: this is a powerful and confident woman who will embrace her body, in all the declinations, with no fear.
David Koma created a collection constellated mainly with evening looks. Vertiginous minidresses with cut-out star details at the bottom hemline or embroidered on the bodice, hourglass silhouettes with pleated lamé in acid green and electric blue, a long white gown with pleated contrast silver lamé. But also power suits with sharp sculptural shoulders in contrasting colours, pants-blazer combo in white, silver, black.
The last look, a dress deconstructing the idea of a smoking suit into an evening gown, said it all: Koma is in search of reinventing the house codes, keeping the identity of this iconic brand strong.
Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2017
Sweatshirts and tees wrapped around the head, mimicking early ritual ceremonies. Coats, skirts, sleeveless jackets layered and twisted over the body recalling sacred costumes.
Rick Owens for Fall Winter 2017 designed a collection channelling the need for a positive new beginning rooted in the idea of collectivity, of gathering together, of human kind in its social form. It had a sense of austerity, of deep hope for a better future. As the model walked in the dry space of Palais de Tokyo, one following the other and randomly walking around the space it felt as a vortex of shapes, volumes and lengths was wrapping up the audience.
Deconstructed silhouettes of puffa jackets, blasers together with leather dresses pulled down and worn as captured in the second of taking them off. There was a strong sense of moving on, of change and positive transformation for a designer who has been building his reign on shades of darkness. Rick Owens chose a colour palette recalling his early work: olive green, khaki, black, shades of brown. It was as if the designer was looking for the initiation moment. The rebirth, the celebration of a future soon to come.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2017: Forging Frontiers
Nicolas Ghesquière had one goal in mind for his Fall/Winter 2017 collection as head of Louis Vuitton – pushing boundaries like the legendary French fashion house has been doing since its 1854 beginnings. Frontiers are meant to be broken down and Louis Vuitton has been at the forefront of innovation, know-how, design and travel, all elements that set it apart from its counterparts are continue to characterise its offerings every season.
Ghesquière wanted to re-create that very sense of boundarylessness that doubled as more of a directional seasonal messages rather that an array of options for city living. This was an evocation of the nomadic, where the city blends with distant landscapes, the masculine blurs with the feminine and Louis Vuitton heritage meets a thirst for the future. A new play of stylistic lines emerges: great American sportswear classics and Slavic accents, inspirations from fashions of the past translated into the world of today, urban classics fused with the magnetic pull of folklore.
This may come as no surprise but beautifully-treated leather was central to this collection: super polished or crackled giving the impression of age and wear. What was perhaps more noteworthy is the attention that designer paid to fur this season. Short-sleeved, patch-worked jackets were paired with relaxed, cropped flares but could up the ante when thrown over an evening dress.
Ghesquière's evening wear offering moved away from last season's dramatic naked dresses. He opted instead for knee-length slip dresses with elaborate pleats, lace insets, sheer details and fabrics with clashing prints in an attempt to infuse the collection with an easy-going, laid-back attitude.
UGG is REAL
A new global marketing Spring/Summer 2017 campaign has been launched by UGG to break down stereotypes.
Aptly titled “REAL” and bearer of a strong message, the campaign features a collective of authentic Californian artists, musicians, surfers, creatives and eccentrics that in their provocative, progressive and free spirited attitudes mirror the core values of the Californian fashion apparel.
Inspired by the beaches, mountains and iconic architecture of California, the stories of Tasya, the songs of Warm Brew, the trips of Colleen and many others will mix together to give birth to a whole contemporary romance where diversity is the main splendid character.
Iris Schomaker – Come to the Edge
Berlin based artist Iris Schomaker, will display her first Benelux exhibition “Come to the Edge” at the Reflex Gallery in Amsterdam showing off her expressive large-scale watercolor and oil-works on paper featuring figures in various states of repose.
The show will consist purely of new works representing an arresting close-up of a single figure, lying reading, resting, sitting curled up, unaware of the viewer’s gaze because “it’s more like a sudden glimpse-something unexpected. These figures do not offer contact. Their faces are blank, vanishing.” As the artist herself said.
Is exactly this blankness that took Iris to project on to the image looking at the very anonymity of those faces as an invitation to the viewers to bring something of their own being surrounded by powerfully immersive and contemplative figures. Moreover the figures in the newer works from the German artist are often accompanied by a symbolic animal that is more idea, atmosphere, and energy, more a sprit guide that brings a strange, irritating and inspiring energy rather than a flesh and bones companion.
In muted shades of black and grey, with only the thinnest veil of oil wash in faded aquamarine or yellow, the overall impression of the palette is decidedly monochrome. The figures are resolutely not portraits; the final creation is given by a work of research through images of unknown people like photos, sketches, ripped pages of magazines, combined with her drawing and creativity, in order to give birth to an incredible mix between classic paintings and current graphic novels.
The exhibition will run until April 26th 2017
Woolrich Re-imagines Men's Outerwear
Woolrich continues its long-standing tradition in conceiving and manufacturing technical outerwear of exceptional quality, a tradition born in the late 70s that has continued to be well-received by avid mountaineers.
The brand is relaunching its Mountain Jacket, one of the first examples of technical outerwear that ushered in the expansion of men's outdoor clothing in order to cater to the requirements of outdoor activities such as backpacking, camping and cycling. Designed with functional elements that suit the requirements of such activities, Woolrich's latest edition of the Mountain Jacket strikes the perfect balance between style and function thus also catering to the more aesthetically driven consumer.
A more contemporary style is brought to the fore ensuring maximum freedom of movement, comfort and warmth with its form-fitting cut, adjustable cuffs and ergonomic style. Gore-tex®'s lightest fabric, the Paclite, guarantees the best performance. Despite the air of innovation that characterises the latest jackets, the brand loyally adheres to the design elements of the late 70s that proved so successful in the past.
With a perfectly breathable waterproof Gore-tex® layer beneath the traditional durable and water repellent outer layer, the Mountain Jacket has proved itself to be a perfect companion for adventures in nature.
Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2017
A mobius of forms, shaped in the seam lines, leading to dramatic volumes. Beautifully balanced but also true to his roots, Glenn Martens created a collection where Y/Project's identity is declined to a new sphere, all played through Martens’ all-time favourite ironic approach to dualities.
The low and the high, the elites and the masses, deconstructed garments and slouchy fits. Between historical reinvention and street culture, Y/Project's Menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2017 continues to master that relaxed and youthful attitude that has characterized Martens’ work from the start.
Doubled silk shirts, deconstructed faux fur, reinvented corduroy suits, slouchy oversized track suits straight from a rapper's videoclip, followed by the impressive sweatsuits with wired piping in a blobbing volume, reminiscent of that mantle draping we have seen on 1808 Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres’s portrait of Napoleon.
As Napoleon and consort printed on scarves in football merch fashion - part of Martens' playful reference along with other royal couples such as Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette - steal the scene and we cannot choose. We can only root for this talented Belgian designer.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2017
A small trumpet as an earring, a shopper completely covered in off-white cable knit wool, a thin leather belt with an ominous brass nose on its centre. The collection of objets trouvés that populated Loewe Menswear Fall/Winter 2017 is not a new element for the quirky mind of creative director Jonathan Anderson.
The mix of fun, classic, and urban elements is something we have seen season after season where individuality has been the key. Beautiful leatherwork as rooted in the brand's Spanish heritage, but also Anderson’s favourite hints to fishermen and sailors’ daily-life. Presented in the Parisian showroom the collection is the image of a further complexity and playful daring attitude from the English designer now in his fourth year at the helm of Loewe.
It was certainly the beautiful shearling one of the spotlight of the collection. In deep cobalt blue with black leather details, in denim, or in a striped rainbow coloured version, to pump up our gloomy mood in rainy, cold Paris.
Mixed and matched tartans and handbags with imaginary propaganda newspaper titles gave a further energising accent to a splendid collection full of craftsmanship and a romantic post-industrial atmosphere.
Osservatorio Prada: the love story between cultural statements and fashion
An invisible thread silently connects fashion with art, a thread that only a few can pick up and follow. A feat that when achieved unlocks the secret behind timeless designers like Miuccia Prada.
Famous not only for creating garments and accessories that are considered pieces of art, Miuccia, has never hidden her devotion to art. Therefore, dedicating the famous Fondazione Prada based in Milan to art, seemed only natural. Collecting the most interesting exhibitions and pieces from contemporary and modern artists, Fondazione has become one of the most coveted destination for art-o-holics. Last December saw the opening of a new venue of Fondazione Prada that pays homage to photography and celebrates visual languages: Ossevatorio Prada.
Based in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the core of the Milanese fashion area, Osservatorio is a place of exploration and research of the latest tendencies and expressions of contemporary photography. Photography is, indeed, the contemporary epicenter of the global flux that digital communication is going through; that is why Osservatorio wants to unveil the cultural implications that it has on our society.
“Give Me Yesterday” by Francesco Zanot was the inaugural exhibition for Fondazione Prada's latest venue. A collection of more than fifty pieces of Italian and international artists that explores the usage of photography presented like a personal diary that travels from the 2000's to the present day.
Fondazione Prada’s contribution to the Italian art scene will leave an indelible mark, just like a photograph does.
GmbH Fall/Winter 2017: When a thought becomes you
In a Society of Limitations where people are together yet alone, GmbH addresses the situation with an inclusive Fall/Winter 2017 collection dedicated to different shapes, gestures and manners.
The collection paired fashion with sustainability featuring bi-colour cropped GmbH biker jackets reworked from recycled, reversible Helly Hansen puffer coats, cropped jersey hoodies and fine knit athletic bodies of partially recycled fibres. A shot of glamour is given by tight lycra and velvet long-sleeved jumpers in a color palette inspired by artist Alexandra Bircken. Moreover traditional carpenter’s guild trousers and gold embroideries enrich the outfits for an even more personal touch.
As GmbH declared: “These are directives for care and wear, eine wahre Geschichte, eine Warengeschichte, a true story a history of wares.”
Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2017
Thousands of little flags suspended from the Grand Palais ceiling, as one of those summer festivals when the night breeze brush them gently. The coloured lights illuminating the room mimicking the stage reflectors of any hard rock concert we have attended in our teens.
When the Depeche Mode lyrics started to play and the lights went up revealing the cardboard boxes and “HARDIOR” packing tape paving the regal space, it all came together.
Kris Van Assche channelled his childhood memories in 90s Antwerp clubs, the music, the parties, creating an electrifying collection that explored not only the new course of Dior Homme after 10 years at its reigns but also the possible declination of modern tailoring.
Van Assche designed the suit for the young man, a dialogue between the cool boy party animal and formal clothing. Close fit blazer revealing baste stitching matched with relaxed loose high waist trousers worn with trainers and white socks. Winking to street-wear.
A sweater with the clustered image of monsieur Christian Dior himself - whose birthday was surprisingly the day of the show - and the sentence written right below “They should just let us rave” turned quickly the attention to a more rebellious side of Van Assche: the gothic sweeping floor length capes and teddy bear chain trousers, the hand painted short fur bomber jackets, the aquamarine jumpers and the orange pony double breasted trench coat.
The Belgian designer picked the candy boys, the gabba, the new wave and the mosch pits at raves as his references. The latter, illustrated by the hand of American artist Dan Witz and printed in few closing looks - like the intricate reverse sequins suit - gave a poignant accent to the whole collection.
Dior Homme is beautifully evolving into a strong luxury fashion brand and as the light goes down we can’t help but be excited, like the post feeling of any great concert.
PORTS 1961 LOVERS ARMY
PORTS 1961 Fall/Winter 2017 collection is all about love and its universal meaning. A collection that is minimalist and gives off a younger appeal than past seasons, will definitely warm your wardrobe and your heart.
The Ports 1961 man is ready to face whatever the day has in store. From protective sports clothing inspired by urban workwear to construction suits. Materials are primarily sober, solid and thick, giving a touch of virility to a pretty chic sportswear collection. In the contrasting palette of black, grey, red and orange, reversible bombers, slit sleeves’ coats, studded blousons and piped trousers are just a bite of this collection that sees heart and love all over it.
Details are what bring this collection its tempo – camouflage prints adored by Milan Vukmirovic are reworked and the quintessential white shirt is embellished with a blood red embroidered heart.
FENDI Spring/Summer 2017: it it girls in a pink pink world
Sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid are undoubtedly a winning model duo in this day and age. For Fendi's Spring/Summer 2017 campaign the Hadid siblings join forces with Italian model Vittoria Ceretti to bring the brand's latest collection to life.
Set in a Parisian apartment, Karl Lagerfeld created a pastel-coloured world with floral wallpapers, infusing a fresh, young campaign with a delicate touch. Bella, Gigi and Vittoria reflect the brand's proposed shabby chic aesthetic while paying homage to Fendi's DNA in an ultra feminine way.
Fendi's Peeakaboo, Dotcom and Strap You bags are given candy-coloured makeovers, further enhancing their status as must-have accessories for the summer season. Fun fur details transform these into the perfect companions for these contemporary Marie Antoinettes.
The intimate, romantic and magical atmosphere created is made current with the addition of an edgy, sporty twist. Classic, yet current and so very Fendi.
Invictus and Olympéa Intense: Paco Rabanne’s divine fragrances
Radical, free, avant-garde. These codes are at the core of Paco Rabanne both in fashion and scents. Invictus and Olympéa Intense are the ultimate unconventional and open to fantasy scents representing two exceptional figures that together create an explosive encounter.
Invictus is man in all his force, robustly pure and athletic. It plays on the shock between blazing amber woods and a marine “salty skin” accord, in a woody-fresh wake. Green-aromatic laurel leaf and orange blossom electrified by notes of black pepper are added to give an intensified, sensual effect. The bottle, dark and sculptural, represents what the Invictus man is all about: an infallible hero who never gives in, a God on earth.
Olympéa empowers women by taking sensuality up a notch. Salty vanilla wrapped up in cashmere wood is at the base of the scent enriched by a duel in which opposites attract. On one side a floral pulse given by white pepper, orange flower and grapefruit blossom. On the other, the warmth of white amber and cedar wood. A glass circular bottle in metal colors represents the perfect construction between geometrical strength and curves, embodying the sacred female of Olympéa, the divine queen.
Nike Air Max 97: the Silver side of Italians
As the homeland of prêt-à-porter, Italy has always introduced new ways of fashion appreciation that we've all emulated at some point or another. Nike's 'La Silver' sneaker has been, and remains to this day, a strong example of this very concept.
When this sneaker made its first appearance in the fashion market in 1997, it failed to capture the hearts of fashion-forward Italians. It was snubbed, regarded as ugly, weird, otherworldly even. For others, those were La Silver's winning characteristics, making this model the star of 20th century footwear trends in Italy.
For a decade, its ostentatious shine and sleek lines made it a staple in many young Italians' Christmas wish lists. As a symbol of Italian gabber dancing culture and futurism, this sneaker was offered in colour variations that never went unnoticed. It wasn't long before La Silver had snuck its way into the hearts and wardrobes of both fashion addicts and proponents of a more 'chav chic' aesthetic.
Straight out of its homeland, “La Silver” by Nike is back on the market after 20 years. This makes us wonder: is this a new icon for this generation or a mere throwback for those who were there from the start?
DIESEL creates ALRITE: the timeless watch that takes art to the street
To do good and in an innovative way has always been considered one of Diesel's mottos. This winter and in collaboration with Fossil, the Italian brand has undoubtedly hit its target with its latest project: the Diesel ALRITE timepieces.
Cut out from 150 square meters of original artwork by Rostarr, who collaborated in the design of this accessory, ALRITE is literally a work of art that endures the passage of time while paying homage to both art and Diesel’s DNA.
The 555 pieces that make up this Limited edition collection are completely unique and each different from one another, making for one-of-a-kind watches. This feeling of exclusivity is exactly what this hand-wrapped genuine leathers watch brings to the wearer by intertwining the aspects of time and timelessness.
Moreover Diesel ALRITE teams up with Sotheby’s to reinforce the message of not only bringing art back, but also doing so for a good cause. Three pieces from this unique collection will be auctioned via e-bay for charity. Funds will be donated to the Only The Brave Foundation that has been working with Diesel for many years to fight against social inequality and working on sustainable development across the world.
“Create products that draw the line between pragmatic and fashion forward” this mission has been definitely brought to life.
KENZO X EASTPAK…and CHARITY
Once again the iconic Padded Pak’r® backpack by Eastpak will serve as the “carte blanche” given to a selection of the world’s most influential designers to create a unique work of art.
When it comes to creativity and eccentricity, Kenzo, one of the brands participating in Eastpak’s Artist Studio competition along with Giambattista Valli and Vêtements, never disappoints giving birth to a “never-seen-before” piece. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s prints trimmed with a tiger claw key holder and a graphic Kenzo towel and hat, were assembled in a collage that not only twins Eastpak and Kenzo, but fashion and charity too.
The collection, comprised of one-off creations from each designer will drop on the 1st of December, World AIDS day. And for a good cause too: all proceeds go to the Designers Against AIDS organization to raise awareness, even among fashion victims, for HIV/AIDS.